To Modify or Not To Modify

[Bob Boyer]

Hi there! First of what will no doubt be many questions as my wife and I get more serious about longer trips in a new-to-me 2000 Chevy S10 ZR2 that I'm beginning to outfit for said longer trips. We've tent camped out of both a Mazda Miata and a Mustang GT convertible (and, with said Mustang, pulled this small tent camper made to be pulled by bigger motorcycles) across the western and midwestern US. For obvious reasons, we haven't gotten far off-road. I'm looking into the possibility of adding a bit of ground clearance, flexibility, and smoother ride with larger wheels/tires and Timbren's axle-less independent suspension (if I can modify the frame so it can be attached) and wonder if, after checking out the pix below, anyone has any further thoughts on the adaptability of this little trailer for just being pulled down farm, Forest Service, and other back roads at reasonable speeds. (I've been alive long enough to have survived the last of my "hold my beer" moments, so I'm not inclined to get onto trails that are technical enough to require crossed axles and such to navigate, especially if it's just the two of us.)

I'm also curious about what anyone might have done with their pop-up campers to help keep dust out of the camper while pulling it down dirt roads and paths. As you can also see from the photos, there's a significant gap where the top tub sits over the bottom tub on this trailer, so I'm thinking some kind of thin rubber skirt that could be attached on both sides of the gap while traveling might be a good idea. But there may be better ideas there as well.

Many thanks in advance for your wisdom. And feel free to just call me bat-sxxx crazy for even considering this trailer as an off-road camping option.

 

[FireMedic82]

Cool little trailer, Bob! Looks like a fun project too. Definitely appears to be doable to me. I am curious what the underside looks like, and how much working room you have with the drop floor in it. Aside from that, I'm thinking a wider axel to allow the larger wheels and tires you want, and a widened frame to provide a place to mount the new fenders. What all are you able to do, as far as skills and tools?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[stevec]

You most certainly are not crazy!

I had a Kwik Kamp for years that I towed behind my Suzuki Samurai and LJ81. Weighed less than 300 lbs. empty. It came with 4.80x8 tires, which I quickly changed to 5.30x12. For what you plan to use it for, you shouldn't need to do much to yours. On mine I effectively did a 1" body lift to clear the larger tires, and replaced all the mounting bolts with higher strength bolts (after shearing about half of them my first trip out.) For your trailer I would start with just replacing the tires with 145R12 (radial trailer) tires, as this will help the ride a lot by itself, and checking/replacing the mounting bolts. Maybe a light skid plate to protect the tub and front carrier from rocks and such. Keeping the weight down as much as possible will make it easier to tow and move around in camp.

Be sure to check your tire pressure both on road and off - this will make a much bigger difference than changing the suspension or anything else. With my trailer I started at 12psi and went down from there. I think I figured out that 12-14psi was about right for highway use, and 5-7psi was good for FS roads. If you are driving up a FS road and see the trailer bouncing around behind you, then you need to lower the pressure on the trailer tires.

My Kwik Kamp just had a canvas cover, held on with Velcro and a few twisties. I have a Venturcraft Trailblazer now with a hard cover, but it also has a vinyl cover under the hard cover which does a pretty good job keeping dust out. The Venturcraft has 215/75R15 tires, and I run them at 10psi on road and 2psi offroad.

 

[old_CWO]

What's under it now? The motorcycle tent trailers I have peeked at usually sport a light duty torsion axle. If so, try a quick spacer to get the trailer up another 3" or so and see what you think. It looks like it already has 13" tires which is a huge improvement over the 8s and 12s you typically find on these little guys so it's the basement storage that's a "drag." If you can get the chassis up a bit I think you've got it licked.

What about a fitted fabric cover with an elastic opening to help keep out some of the dust? Sort of like a big rectangular spare tire cover is what I am picturing.

I don't think you're bat stuff crazy. That's a nice light rig and should be able to easily handle rough forest service roads without too much futzing around.

 

[Bob Boyer]

Many thanks for that encouragement, everyone! To answer some questions in order - I've got a fair amount of mechanical, if not computer, wrenching skills (one reason I got the old Chevy) though I've never learned to weld. Have no problem tackling things that don't require that, however. I know the Kwik Kamp, Steve - it's a nice little trailer. This one is an Aspen Ambassador, weighs about 350 lbs empty and hitch weight is 25 lbs. Right now it has maybe 6" of ground clearance with that "basement" where we keep our stove and kitchen stuff. Good spot on the tires - they are 165/80 13s and yes, it's a typical light duty torsion axle fitted into a moulded gap between the two halves of the "basement" compartment. It sounds like from everyone's thoughts that the first step should be to find and fit spacers between the frame and axle mounts and upgrade the mounting bolts. Then see about a skid plate across the front since it will still be sitting low by off-road standards. I'll probably end up replacing the tires because they're original and at some point will start cracking even if the tread looks okay, so I may try to get something a little taller on that rim if such is made. Nice to know the independent suspension isn't an absolute necessity - I can put that money towards an onboard air compressor now that you've given me those tips on tire pressures.

There's a tent and awning place in town - think I'll see if I can get them to make up a lightweight fitted cover for it that will stay in place at highway speeds. Thanks again, everyone!

 

[old_CWO]

It sounds like from everyone's thoughts that the first step should be to find and fit spacers between the frame and axle mounts and upgrade the mounting bolts. Then see about a skid plate across the front since it will still be sitting low by off-road standards. I'll probably end up replacing the tires because they're original and at some point will start cracking even if the tread looks okay, so I may try to get something a little taller on that rim if such is made.

In my opinion you're 100% on track. a simple length of square or rectangle tube with some new bolts is a common method of spacing down the torsion axle. If you have a good steel supplier around that should be a very low cost undertaking.

The tallest trailer 13 I can think of is a 185/80R13 which is about a half inch taller than the far more common 175/80R13. I don't think the extra 1/4" is worth the added cost (insert that's what she said joke here). Your tires and axle already have more clearance than many trucks and SUVs. I would be far more concerned about the basement dragging than tire height at this point. IF you need to go taller on the tire, I think you will find that it requires going wider with the axle. That adds cost, complexity and weight you may not need for your intended use. It would however look way cool with big off road tires and let's face it; looking cool is important.?