Hard to beat the Delorme topo. I use Topo 7 and while it is kind of cumbersome, it is inexpensive and very complete. Combined with an inexpensive GPS usb receiver, you can navigate nearly anywhere for very little $$. Plus, it does very good routing, and even routes over most offroad trails and tracks. It will route streets and highways like the normal street software, so it's quite versatile.
The downside is the cumbersome interface, which is not intuitive, but gets easier with time. I run it on a Netbook and think for the price, it totally rocks.