Trailer based on P/U bed...

The Adam Blaster

Expedition Leader
Ok, so other than what some would call poor aesthetics, I think this may be a way to go for me and my family.

Take a p/u bed, used or surplus and mount an approriately rated (3500 or 5000 lbs?) straight axle on it with leaf springs and some shocks to soak up the bumps. I like the rugged simplicity of the straight axle.
Mount a Flippac on top of the rails, as well as have a platform for a bed in between the rails. The platform would have drawers for gear in it as well as a small battery bank and other storage cubby-holes.

I guess grabbing the whole rear half of a damaged pickup would net me the frame and properly setup axle and everything else right?

Hmm... I might have to call some junk yards and see what something like that would run...
 

nbleak21

Adventurer
Ive thought about and read up about this sort of idea as well... and the biggest issue that people have been coming up with is something about the weight distribution relative to where the axle is on the truck bed trailer... so you'd be best off looking for one that will balance out properly (whatever that may be!)
 

The Adam Blaster

Expedition Leader
I've been thinking about that aspect, pretty much every time I drive by a p/u I am staring at the bed and looking at the placement of the rear axle.

A big part of my reasoning for going forward with this plan is based on the fact that a lot of the work is already done - the main cargo area (built and sealed well - waterproof too) is already in place on a solid frame, and there's even a very stout axle under there.
I might consider swapping out the axle and replacing it with a more standard trailer axle, but that would be mainly for the $$$ depending on what axle came in the truck, and what I could get for selling it. I'm assuming the rear out of any p/u is worth a fair bit more than a standard trailer axle.

I think I need to start at a junk yard and see how much they would charge me for the rear half of a 1/2 ton pickup and that will determine if it's worth it or not.

And the main fabrication portion of the build would be the creation of a tongue properly attached to the existing frame under the p/u bed.
If I had to do any more extensive modifications to the frame, axle placement, chop up the box etc. I would probably not go this route, the main benefit to me wouldn't be there...
 

KG6BWS

Explorer
IVe thought of the same thing myself. I have an 04 Tacoma Double cab. Thought it would be kinda cool to build a trailer out of another double cab and paint to match.
 

KG6BWS

Explorer
And on the balance issue. A DC Tacoma bed would probably work quite well. The axle is fairly far forward on the bed, which means that once the tongue is built, nose box and water tank are installed, it should balance out with everything in the back and my rtt on top.


Hmmmmm.......

Gonna have to start looking around junk yards......
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I've posted on this idea in the past.
What a friend & I built, I call it the "Cheap Utility Trailer" (CUT) as we're into it for under $500 including all new Timken wheel bearings and CR seals:
IMG_0285-1.jpg


When dealing with a 3/4t full size axle, as we had under that amalgamation of IH & GM truck parts, you can delete the differential if you obtain a piece of tube that will fit tightly over the axle tube. Which is what we did. I cut the drive flanges off of the axle shafts rather than making cover plates as square spline D60 shafts are worthless. If you install fill and drain plugs in that tube, then you can fill the axle 3/4 full with gear lube and never need to worry about trailer wheel bearings again!

I've also posted a thread with a link to a page on setting up tongue length to get the right tongue weight.

One that I saw at last year's Vegas To Reno race:
IMG_0758-1.jpg
 

KG6BWS

Explorer
I've posted on this idea in the past.
What a friend & I built, I call it the "Cheap Utility Trailer" (CUT) as we're into it for under $500 including all new Timken wheel bearings and CR seals:
IMG_0285-1.jpg


When dealing with a 3/4t full size axle, as we had under that amalgamation of IH & GM truck parts, you can delete the differential if you obtain a piece of tube that will fit tightly over the axle tube. Which is what we did. I cut the drive flanges off of the axle shafts rather than making cover plates as square spline D60 shafts are worthless. If you install fill and drain plugs in that tube, then you can fill the axle 3/4 full with gear lube and never need to worry about trailer wheel bearings again!

I've also posted a thread with a link to a page on setting up tongue length to get the right tongue weight.

One that I saw at last year's Vegas To Reno race:
IMG_0758-1.jpg

Now thats cool!!!
 

Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
IVe thought of the same thing myself. I have an 04 Tacoma Double cab. Thought it would be kinda cool to build a trailer out of another double cab and paint to match.

I had an idea once along those lines. Mine also included adding a flange added to carry a belt to drive an alternator... connected to the battery bank.

Idea was too expensive in comparison to my current trailer... never tried it.
 

lowenbrau

Explorer
I have one with an old Alaskan camper on it that you can have for $100. It was a 3/4 ton Chev with a 4" block lift and still has the corp 14 bolt under it. I bought it for the camper and never got started on the project.

I don't have a picture or I'd attach it.
 

KG6BWS

Explorer
I had an idea once along those lines. Mine also included adding a flange added to carry a belt to drive an alternator... connected to the battery bank.

Idea was too expensive in comparison to my current trailer... never tried it.

WOuld be a good way to keep the trailer batteries charged while on the road. WOuldnt even need to run power to the trailer connector.
 

lowenbrau

Explorer
It would seem more efficient to go... crankshaft --> belt --> alternator --> wire --> battery

rather than... crankshaft --> transmission --> transfer case --> differential --> axle --> tire --> road --> tire --> axle --> differential --> belt --> alternator --> wire--> battery.
 

Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
It would seem more efficient to go... crankshaft --> belt --> alternator --> wire --> battery

rather than... crankshaft --> transmission --> transfer case --> differential --> axle --> tire --> road --> tire --> axle --> differential --> belt --> alternator --> wire--> battery.

The idea is... you are pulling the trailer anyways, and you could have a way to help keep the batteries topped off, and have a spare alternator in case yours fails... not going to get too far without one... same principle with the spare rear axle back there... its pretty easy to bolt up a whole axle if you blow up yours.
 

The Adam Blaster

Expedition Leader
Balancing the weight properly would take a bit of doing...

I think the 8' bed would be the best to have for interior space, nice large sleeping bed for the wife and I, and I could leave a gap near the tail gate so upon entering the trailer, you wouldn't immediately be on the bed.
It would actually make a ood spot to take your shoes off and store them for the night.
But, the 8 footers also seem to be the ones that have the axle forward of their centers.
Maybe if I tried mounting the batteries under the bed towards the back, as well as a spare tire or two as far back as I could, it would help even things out...

Lowenbrau, what year is that one that you have?
For $100.00 it would be worth it to have and inspect underneath and use to as a test bed.
(Pardon the pun.) :coffeedrink:
 

The Adam Blaster

Expedition Leader
This afternoon I've spent some time looking online for wrecked trucks, or trucks with blown engines etc.
I've actually found some running trucks for 2 grand or less, high mileage of course. But, they might make a decent daily driver vehicle for me for the next little while. I wouldn't care if it burned oil or didn't have 2nd gear because I would be chopping it up later on anyways! lol

And with a complete truck, I could probably part it out and make quite a bit of the money back.
What's a used Chevy 350 worth?
Drive shafts, tranny, t-case, axles, doors, body panels etc. etc...

Heck, I'd probably even ditch the tires and rims and get wagon wheels like I have on the Cherokee!
 

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