trailer grade adhesive's or "caulk?"

[Rezarf <><]

I am looking at skinning my trailer with steel soon. I plan on spot welding the panels into place but I am curious as to what products to be looking at for sealing up all the edges? What are some comercial or industrial grade names of products? I am looking for the best stuff between price and function... ease of use won't hurt either.

Also, can anyone recommend a weld through primer for body panels? I understand you need to clean/regrind off the spot to be welded but I want to make sure I fight the Rust-beast as much as I can before I seal it up.

Thanks!

Rezarf <><

 

[Martyn]

We use a vehicle body sealant on a couple of spot welded seams to make sure they remain waterproof.

It's made by Geocel and it's the 2300 MHRV Vehicle Body Sealant.

Seems to work well, the only issue is you have to get it on correctly the first time otherwise it's very messy.

 

[UK4X4]

Windscreen glue....black from any autzone or similar, its about 10 bucks a tube.

won't help the spot welding however....but its tough and waterproof.

On my trailer build I used an industrial "nomorenails" or similar for sealing between the alu panels and the steel frame.

Mine are pop rivited in place, as the frame has the strength. the ALU just for waterproofing.


I like the industrial adhesive as 1 its a glue, two its paintable not like any silicone sealant.

 

[Tucson T4R]

I have used and liked Sikaflex for years. I noticed the Kimberley Kamper trailers also used Sikaflex as a sealant between trailer boxes and frame contact points. I have also used it around my pool and it has held up for years in the Arizona heat and sun. Good stuff.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Vulkem and Silkaflex. Its what is used to put Airstreams together.
I left you a link before in one of your posts.

 

[Robthebrit]

They are good products but my airstream leaks around the skylite.

Rob

 

[ntsqd]

The late model diesel pushers, I'm told, use 3M VHB tape to adhere their side panels. That's how they get those smoooootthhhh sides w/o any rivets etc. I've used it for machining thin parts (profiles in sheetmetal) and it works great for that. You can't peel it off, you have to use a solvent (one you're not very likely to use on paint) to get the parts to loosen on the platten.

I've also used 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant. That stuff is also hard to get loose. I'm told that it takes a heat gun to do it, but sitting in the desert never affected it. It's a bit like caulking in that it has tiny bit of give to it.

For a higher strength bond the one epoxy that I've used is Miller-Stephenson 907 I used it on a bicycle towed trailer to bond on the structural aluminum side panels.

With dissimilar metals I'd look for something that stays btwn the metals & electrically insulates them so that the galvanic battery corrosion process can't start.

 

[Grim Reaper]

They are good products but my airstream leaks around the skylite.

Rob

Parbond, Alcoa gutter seal or Acryl-R They are thin and wick into the seams. Works good. VulKem is thick and for assembly.

Make sure the trailer is in the sun and warm so it will flow. Scrape any loose crud out of the seam. I take brake cleaner to clean the seam out on my 59. You have a clear coat so you might not want to do that.


http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/category_s/24.htm

I have not personally used Acryl-R but everybody that has seemed to like the product and it comes with a pump applicator. Its also Airstream approved.

http://store.airstream.com/dynamic.php?ProdCat=Maintenance&action=cat&offset=15


You on www.airforums.com ? I'm 59Toaster over there.

 

[Rezarf <><]

The late model diesel pushers, I'm told, use 3M VHB tape to adhere their side panels. That's how they get those smoooootthhhh sides w/o any rivets etc. I've used it for machining thin parts (profiles in sheetmetal) and it works great for that. You can't peel it off, you have to use a solvent (one you're not very likely to use on paint) to get the parts to loosen on the platten.

I've also used 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant. That stuff is also hard to get loose. I'm told that it takes a heat gun to do it, but sitting in the desert never affected it. It's a bit like caulking in that it has tiny bit of give to it.

For a higher strength bond the one epoxy that I've used is Miller-Stephenson 907 I used it on a bicycle towed trailer to bond on the structural aluminum side panels.

With dissimilar metals I'd look for something that stays btwn the metals & electrically insulates them so that the galvanic battery corrosion process can't start.

Dude- you always amaze me with the random stuff you know! Thanks!

I can't imagine taping my trailer together, but after some initial reading this stuff seems pretty amazing! I am going to have to read up. If I can get clean lines, sealed seams, and spot weld strength... this could be the stuff.

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff?

thanks! I am checking into all this stuff mentioned.

Rezarf <><