Trailer rust proofing and paint

[TRACTION]

Won a M101A2 trailer at auction. It was born in 1990 so it has some surface rust, nothing bad but definitely needs to be treated.

I plan on getting the entire trailer media blasted and then I'd like to finish it with some sort of chassis treatment (for the frame) and/or paint that will prevent rust.

I'm looking for recommendations on what to use. I'd prefer a one product application for simplicity and cost but am open to all ideas. I'd like to apply it in my garage too so something in a spray can would work best, that and makes for easy touch ups.

Once all the transfer paperwork is complete and I get the trailer itself I'll start a build thread so people can follow the process.

 

[ntsqd]

I would suggest researching "Moisture curing polyurethane paint." These are known to auto enthusiasts by a couple of trade names, "POR-15" & "Rust Bullet", but there are many other such paints out there. If you can find a local vendor who deals in industrial paint & coatings they'll have the knowledge and expertise to point you in a good direction for both the coating and the preparation.

 

[evldave]

If you want to do this in your garage and on the (real) cheap, hit up wally-world in their automotive department, they have the cheapo bedliner (I think rustoleum) in both gallon (roll-on) and spray can...it will run you $50, and I can attest it hold up reasonably well to chips/scrapes/etc...I used it on the bed of my 416 and recently carried 5 yards of gravel (5 loads) and not a single chip...I used 3 thick coats on the trailer and it was only 1/2 gallon + I can touch up using spray or leftover roll-on.

I'm sure POR-15 or line-x works better, is probably more UV stable, and holds up longer...but for cheap and convenient, I'm sold on the rustoleum stuff...

 

[ntsqd]

POR actually has an issue with UV. It needs a top coat, but not all of that type of paint does. A friend in the industrial coatings biz thinks POR is over priced (marketing) for what it is. His location's availability is so different from mine that he really hasn't been able to help much.

 

[evilfij]

Why don't you take it and have it galvanized?

 

[TRACTION]

I'm envisioning it with a black frame and possibly a white (matches my truck) or gray tub so paint is probably the best option.

I'm going to stop by a local automotive finish store tonight and see what they recommend.

 

[ocean_explorer]

Take a look at Devoe Bar-Rust 235. It is a two part epoxy and comes in black. I have used it with great success on a number of projects. Here is a link to the product - http://www.duspec.com/DuSpec2/produ...5V&documentType=datasheet&submit=Get+Document
Devoe has a store in Seattle.

 

[ntsqd]

An automotive paint operation may or may not have anything industrial. And that I think is the key, go with something industrial. The automotive finishes are designed for high gloss. They trade off long life and robustness to get it.

Something like the Devoe products mentioned above or this company's offerings:
http://www.carboline.com/

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

POR actually has an issue with UV. It needs a top coat, but not all of that type of paint does. A friend in the industrial coatings biz thinks POR is over priced (marketing) for what it is. His location's availability is so different from mine that he really hasn't been able to help much.

I'm very curious to hear what UV-stable POR-15-like products are out there. I have used POR-15 a lot in the past, and here's my take...

• I have seen several people complain that there is too much prep work required with POR-15 paint. Bottom line...a good-quality paint job requires very good prep work, regardless of what paint you're using.
• The water-based POR-15 Marine Clean does a decent job, but does not fully degrease anything I have prepped/painted. I follow up the Marine Clean with several passes of an Acetone-soaked rag, and am amazed at how much dirt/grime still comes off. I think Marine Clean is overrated, and not nearly as effective as the company claims.
• The base POR-15 product is very durable, and self-levels very nicely when applied with a brush. I think this "base product" is really good stuff.
• The Chassis Coat does NOT self-level like the base product, and I don't think the UV protection is adequate. I have had a couple projects using this top coat get "chalky" in a very short period of time. I think Chassis Coat (which is not available in a spray can, but rather needs to be brushed on) is overrated.

I have been happiest using POR-15 base coat, followed by POR-15 Self-Etching Primer (available in a spray can), and finally a top coat of Krylon Semi-Flat black. The POR offers great base metal protection, while the Krylon is easily touched up for surface scratches (which typically don't get through to bare metal because of the hardness of the POR-15).

I WILL say that POR-15 reacts nastily (is that a word?) with any "foreign" paint type - for example, 3-M Weld-Thru coating. I have used the Weld-Thru Coating on Jeep frame plates (stitch welded on), and even though I try to remove any residual coating in the cracks between the stitch welds, it's hard to do. POR rejects adhesion in these hard-to-reach areas.

I have also used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Good stuff from what I can tell, but not nearly as durable as the POR-15 base coat.

My opinion is worth what you paid for it. :sombrero:

Craig