Transfer case cover

[cjmitchell5]

Does anyone have a good solution to minimize the leaks around the T-case cover? I know Wise Owl and SeriesTrek both make covers of aluminum, does anyone have experience with these? Which is better? I know Wise Owl has cooling fins but the Seriestrek cover appears thick and bulletproof. (Mercedesrover, your input is welcome, I bet you're partial to one.)

Also could this be an issue because of increased pressures as oil seeps back from the gearbox to the t-case through the gearbox rear seal?

Also as soon as Wise Owl and Rocky Mountain get some in, I'm hoping to add a Roverdrive which I've heard runs hot. Is there a way to add a cooler to a gearbox w/o a pump? I would think if you added fittings and a heat exchange nothing is flowing but you are adding capacity and cooling through convection (conduction? one of those)

I need to put my series on a boat to be shipped to Oahu in a few weeks so I need leaks to a minimum.

I look forward to the responses!

 

[Mercedesrover]

I'll chime in with my obviously biased opinion....

I use both pans, mine on the 109 and Ray's on the 88. The 88 also runs a Roverdrive so I like the benefits of the cooling fins on Ray's pan. My pan, however, is undoubtedly stronger.

Ray's pan is cast, mine is heat-treated 6061-T6. I don't think you could bend mine if you tried. Rays would shatter with a good ********** on a rock. But regardless, both are good and both will help you stop leaks at the transfer case.

You may also want to reconsider your choice in overdrives. As said, I run a Roverdrive in my truck and it's ok but given the choice again I'd probably go back to a Fairey. You're right that the Roverdrive runs VERY hot. It also shifts hard. It is very quiet though. The fairey is perhaps shorter-lived but parts and service is easy (and fun!) from George at RDS.

If you're set on a Roverdrive, get the t-case cover from Ray. Otherwise, I'd probably run mine. (Even if I didn't make them!)

 

[ntsqd]

To further my education of things LR, could someone post a picture of the parts being discussed?

 

[cjmitchell5]

This first photo is of a typical LR t-case (this one is actually from a Range Rover w/ the drain plug in a different location than the series but you get the general idea. I've highlighted areas prone to leaking.

This photo is of the Wise Owl Parts cover.

This photo is of the SeriesTrek cover. I wasn't just saying it's bulletproof because it looks tough, I believe it actually would stop bullets.

 

[Mercedesrover]

This photo is of the SeriesTrek cover. I wasn't just saying it's bulletproof because it looks tough, I believe it actually would stop bullets.

Haha. That's funny.

Tell ya what...I have one that I screwed up the treads in. I'm also going deer hunting this week and could stand to sight in a couple of my rifles. I'll shoot that spare one tonight and post photos.

It'll be shot with 30-30, .44 magnum (out of a rifle) and maybe .243 for good measure. I do have some 7.62 x 39 that I know will go through it.

 

[Oilburner]

I've always ditched the cork gasket, spent some time on getting the sealing surfaces clean, straight and smooth (the stamped steel cover usually needs some massaging with a ball pein hammer to get it straight) and use Permatex "Right Stuff" sealer. This usually keeps it from leaking, but if you plan on using the truck off-road, a heavier duty cover makes a lot of sense.

 

[Mercedesrover]

I believe it actually would stop bullets.

Actually, no. Not big ones anyway.
2 from a 30-30 and 4 from a .44 magnum (rifle)

It will, however, handle 147 grain 9mm without trouble.

Moral of the story? If you're gonna get shot at when you're off-roading, hope it's a guy with a handgun.

 

[James86004]

Is the SeriesTrek cover anodized? That might help keep the penetration down a little.

 

[ntsqd]

So basically the stock part leaks at every bolt hole? Are they thru-threaded holes in the case, or blind threaded holes?

I can see dumping the cork gasket, especially in favor of the "Right Stuff." In some cases loosing such a gasket results in interference. I'm guessing not here?

 

[Mercedesrover]

They're blind 1/4-20 holes. The pans on the Series trucks are tin and are usually bent up from use and over-tightening. An aluminum pan is stronger and flatter and also helps add some strength to the transfer case as a whole. I also use studs on mine and as such can tighten the pan down tighter than you'd dare with just bolts.

 

[cjmitchell5]

So basically the stock part leaks at every bolt hole? Are they thru-threaded holes in the case, or blind threaded holes?

I can see dumping the cork gasket, especially in favor of the "Right Stuff." In some cases loosing such a gasket results in interference. I'm guessing not here?

No, not the holes specifically, usually it is the edges because of it's thickness and variations. I just put the photo for comic effect. I should've made the "& here"'s smaller and put more so as not to confuse w/ the bolt holes.

Actually, no. Not big ones anyway.
2 from a 30-30 and 4 from a .44 magnum (rifle)



It will, however, handle 147 grain 9mm without trouble.



Moral of the story? If you're gonna get shot at when you're off-roading, hope it's a guy with a handgun.

LOL, that is awesome! I guess you can designate the cover as NIJ Level IIA armor.