Would like to see a couple of trickle charger setups. I've not been using my truck much lately and the battery is usually dead when I need it. I'd like to see a setup where I don't have wires running under the hood to the battery from my small solar charger. Any good suggestions?
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Trickler charger install
- Thread starter NoToyz
- Start date
Would like to see a couple of trickle charger setups. I've not been using my truck much lately and the battery is usually dead when I need it. I'd like to see a setup where I don't have wires running under the hood to the battery from my small solar charger. Any good suggestions?
While I haven't done it yet, I am planning on installing 2 Battery Tenders. 1 for the main battery and another for the auxiliary. I would like to combine the AC wires from both into a socket of some type and then have an external thicker cable that can plug into a wall outlet somewhere. I would really like to get about 20 feet or more on that cable. I'll also have a solar charger input next to the battery tender input. The solar charger input will only charge my auxiliary battery though.
I'm planning on using Mil-Spec 5015 sockets/plugs/connectors. They are very rugged and waterproof.
I just haven't chosen a location yet. I eventually want to mount an external faucet somewhere so maybe I'll design a plate with labels and everything and mount the sockets there.
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lysol I was looking at your solar battery box in the pelican case, nice setup. I have a question on where to obtain the mil spec socket / plugs etc. This might be a good solution to mounting the connector in the grill. Would be fairly accessible and not to difficult (well for me LOL) to install.
had good luck with the 5 watt park panels.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-5202...9676&sr=8-1&keywords=5+watt+car+charger+solar
I use these on mine. Just depends if you have a cigarette lighter that is constant on. Generates quite a bit of power- more so than my 7 watt panel in clouds (amorphous cells vs mono crystaline) and at off angles.
your battery however, should not be dying in only a few weeks. see if you have a parasitic drain somewhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-5202...9676&sr=8-1&keywords=5+watt+car+charger+solar
I use these on mine. Just depends if you have a cigarette lighter that is constant on. Generates quite a bit of power- more so than my 7 watt panel in clouds (amorphous cells vs mono crystaline) and at off angles.
your battery however, should not be dying in only a few weeks. see if you have a parasitic drain somewhere.
lysol I was looking at your solar battery box in the pelican case, nice setup. I have a question on where to obtain the mil spec socket / plugs etc. This might be a good solution to mounting the connector in the grill. Would be fairly accessible and not to difficult (well for me LOL) to install.
The plugs I have are only rated up to 13 amps, but I use mouser.com
Their website can be tricky to navigate until you get to know their "terms" for things. The type of connectors I use are called "Circular Connectors"... lol... I know right?....
http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Circular-Connectors/_/N-76q5a/
Then from there, I select "Circular MIL Spec Connectors".
http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Circular-Connectors/Circular-MIL-Spec-Connectors/_/N-9uhfv/
Then form there, I select "Circular MIL Spec Connector".
http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Ci...ectors/Circular-MIL-Spec-Connector/_/N-9ulxv/
Then I browse throuh. I really wish the Harwin connectors were rated higher than 13 amps... I might end up switching to the Amphenol connectors or another brand as they are VERY popular. I would like to try to future proof my Pelican Charger so that the connectors match up to the connectors I put on my Jeep. That way, all the cables/solar panels/etc... are backwards compatible. I really was hoping for 20-amp connectors at minimum. 30-amp even would give me a nice cushion for planning.
I might end up going with this setup:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMv/ye0hRulZR/S5ltx8gSydKwmFW65zbiI=
It is rated up to 23 amps which is more than enough for my future needs. It's a 2-Pin setup (Don't be fooled by the picture). It will allow me to use 12-14 AWG wire which is was I originally wanted/needed. (1) plug is about $30, but their quality is worth it if you have the cash.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMv/ye0hRulZR/S5ltx8gSydKwmFW65zbiI=
It is rated up to 23 amps which is more than enough for my future needs. It's a 2-Pin setup (Don't be fooled by the picture). It will allow me to use 12-14 AWG wire which is was I originally wanted/needed. (1) plug is about $30, but their quality is worth it if you have the cash.
I will probably use http://www.peigenesis.com next time. They have a much better layout for navigating.
Though, I really like the pin arrangement of 18/3 better. Who knows. This would put the (2) pins in the connector as left and right instead of top and bottom.
To make sense of the part numbers, this is what I would be looking at if I switched to the Amphenol connectors. They would give me up to 23 Amps to play with which would be more than enough for a mobile application for both my portable Pelican case and my Jeep:
male plug:
MS 3101 E/F "X-X" P
female plug:
MS 3101 E/F "X-X" S
male socket:
MS 3102 E/F "X-X" P
female socket:
MS 3102 E/F "X-X" S
"X-X":
16-11: A over B
16-13: B left/A right
18-3 : B left/A right
Though, I really like the pin arrangement of 18/3 better. Who knows. This would put the (2) pins in the connector as left and right instead of top and bottom.
To make sense of the part numbers, this is what I would be looking at if I switched to the Amphenol connectors. They would give me up to 23 Amps to play with which would be more than enough for a mobile application for both my portable Pelican case and my Jeep:
male plug:
MS 3101 E/F "X-X" P
female plug:
MS 3101 E/F "X-X" S
male socket:
MS 3102 E/F "X-X" P
female socket:
MS 3102 E/F "X-X" S
"X-X":
16-11: A over B
16-13: B left/A right
18-3 : B left/A right
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