Usal Beach "adventure", Aug 13-15 (Long & pic heavy)

ccarley

Adventurer
This past weekend, we were finally able to take the Suburban out on a nice long-ish camping trip. Long-ish, because we have to work still, and having 4 days off is like a vacation when you normally work 5 12 hour days :wings:
I took Thursday the 12th off as well, to get ready for the trip. I had picked up some heavy pine pallets from work to cut up for firewood, and stopped by a few places for some handy items, like a milk crate & storage box with latches. I didn't like going out with bags of groceries, I wanted a place to put food where it would be secure. I cut up the pallets, and made a "wood deck" in the back to help distribute the load. Everything fit great in the back of the Suburban (no surprise, eh?) and it leveled out with the new rear springs & all that weight. I flipped the air cleaner lid upside down to let in some more air to the engine too, I figured I'd give that a try since it had worked so well on my old Jeep Grand Wagoneer.
Friday we hit the store, and while on the road, I realized I forgot my perculator! That's a must have. We stopped for fuel in Rohnert Park (our hometown), and then stopped in Ukiah to see if Wal-Mart had a perculator. Nope, but they had cheap chairs, which we needed too. We hit up an outdoor shop in Ukiah as well, which has a great firearm selection, and one perculator. Sweet! We stopped to top off the tank in Laytonville, and it only took a little over 7 gallons. Need to check the actual mileage on that since my odometer is off, due to the large tires.
It was hot through Ukiah, Willits, and Laytonville, all the way until Leggett where we turned off 101 to Hwy 1 South. Once over the mountain on Hwy 1, it started to cool off. Good thing, we still don't have A/C. The wing windows help though.
Pit stop on Hwy 1:
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We turned onto Usal Road at milemarker 90.(something), and past the cattle grate I locked the hubs. The road is steep in parts, so we just use low-range, and no overdrive. That combination was perfect, and the TH700-R4 pretty much kept in a good gear no matter how fast or slow we were going. After maybe a mile we came across our first obstacle: a car. As my wife hopped out to ask them to back up the hill a little, a CDF 4X4 fire truck came around the bend, behind the car. I was thinking we were screwed, no way either could get by us where we were! After some discussion, the car backed up a little (he didn't really have the power to back up the hill...), and I pulled into a ditch with the side of the Suburban really close to the mountainside. The car got by, and the CDF truck backed up a little, where we pulled into the ditch again (I should have got a pic through the mirror!) and we scooted by.
Usal Road:
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Narrow & foggy in parts:
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The fog was creating "rain" in the trees, to the point where there was a little mud:
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I was pulling over when I could to let people who liked to drive (too) fast pass by. At one point, a large Ford 15 passenger van (really?) came up behind us, so I pulled over. This is where the trouble started... after the van went by, I started to pull forward, and the frame twisted so much, the fan started to hit something! I was worried it was hitting the radiator, and my wife was suggesting I shut it down. I hit the e-brake, threw it in park (so I thought) and shut it off. I asked her to assist me in opening the hood, as it never opens easily. I saw that the fan was nowhere near the radiator, and only hitting the shroud, so I figured we'll just let it eat the plastic. If it was tagging the radiator, I was going to pull the fan, and then get out of this situation. I fired it back up, took the e-brake off, gave it some throttle, and it started moving backwards. I guess the frame was so twisted that I could not hit park. After it moved backwards, the fan was ok again after spitting out some shroud pieces. "Self clearancing".
Another obstacle we hit on the way was a rut in a banked corner. This may not have been a problem for shorter wheelbase vehicles, but the length of the Suburban caused us to get a little tipsy! Left-hand corner, with a good bank on it, and a large rut all the way across. As the front went through, we were fine, but when the right rear went in the ditch, and we were already leaning right... well, I probably lifted a wheel, but we came out just fine.
Arrived at Usal Beach, looking for a campsite:
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Looking for an available site took a while once at Usal Beach. For a Friday, the place was pretty full. We spent probably an hour driving all over the campground, and everywhere we looked there were people all set up. There was the other side of the campground, which required driving through an area that would flex out my suspension again, or another entry point that looked like I might high-center on, so we held out on driving over there. We finally parked & walked around, and found a nice site, on that other side. I carefully drove over the area I might high-center on, and came through alright.
The Elk were out when we arrived around 4:00 pm:
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"Primitave" Camping:
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I don't know how long a post can be, so I'm going to stop here & continue in a reply.
Clay
 

ccarley

Adventurer
Friday Afternoon & Evening:

There were a lot of people out on the beach in their quads & 4X4's. I didn't think they were being too polite, because there were other people just trying to enjoy the area. They didn't bother me too much, since we had picked a site with a view of the beach, we could watch people if they got stuck hehe.
Big red Ford:
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The Elk were pretty close:
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(My wife is at least 50 feet away, but I tried to get a shot that made her look close)

View of me & our site:
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As you can see from the photos, the fog was in when we got there. It was a nice change since we were driving a BLACK vehicle through some areas that were in the 90's on the way there. And no A/C.
View facing out:
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Fog!
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Cool night shot, no flash, lantern for light:
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The night was pretty comfy in the Suburban. I only left the wing windows open, and sprayed them with Deet to keep the bugs out. We had a futon mattress in the back, with some thick sleeping bags, and a blanket over the back window. With the back seat folded (middle seat?) you can use the overhead console rear map lights for reading lights at night. Came in handy when we were reading Four Wheeler, and they had an article about the 75th anniversary of the Suburban.

Saturday, Aug 14
I woke in the morning, well early first to a starry sky. Pretty cool! Then, as the sun came out, we had some nice blue skies with some fog rolling over the trees.
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Saturday was quite beautiful, and almost got warm. I made some coffee in the morning & just enjoyed the view, and the sound of the waves.
Facing the ocean:
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Facing inland:
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Going for a walk on the beach, we could see tire tracks all over the place. A lot of people had come out to just enjoy the beach in the morning though, and not too many vehicles:
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ccarley

Adventurer
Someone did get their quad stuck though. Not sure if it was on purpose or not:
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We were lazy all day, but after lunch decided to drive around the campground a bit. I didn't want to do anything crazy, especially with the 10 bolts underneath, so we kept the "trail running" pretty tame. Besides, this is my first real time out with such a large vehicle!

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I think I underestimate how much clearance I have. I think this is where the bumper tagged my marker light too, cracking the lens:
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It's hard with the sun to see the washed out areas here:
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Because the sun was out, and we tend to sunburn, I decided to set up our canopy to cover our portable picnic table & food containers. The afternoon was nice, but when "chillin" in our campsite, we cooled off quickly.
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Out on the beach in the afternoon, there were a few vehicles again. A YJ with 1-ton axles, an old Bronco, and (our new neighbors) a Powerstroke Ford.
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The Elk were not out all day Saturday. So, my wife suggested we go for a walk to see where they are. She was really curious where they went when they weren't out. After a bit of walking, we were almost back at our camp, and as we went over to the creek (where it was mostly quiet), we saw the Elk sleeping in the forest on the other side of the water:
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Mitsubishi?
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Our neighbors:
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ccarley

Adventurer
Saturday afternoon, continued:

Cool old Bronco on the beach:
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Fog started rolling in, in the afternoon. The temps started to really cool off!
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While we were driving around, we decided to get some "old school Four Wheeler" cover shots. Remember when they always had some crazy show truck running through like 3 inches of muddy water?
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A lot of people were "harassing" the Elk during the afternoon after they came out. I would not get near them, I mean really, those guys are huge, with giant racks of antlers that are quite pointy. They could kill you so easily, without even thinking about it. I think they liked us though, because we were quiet, and leaving them alone. They kept coming near our site:
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Saturday evening was relaxing. Things got quiet pretty quickly, and we had some beer & wine, along with our stew. A ranger stopped by at around 9:30 or 10:00 pm (!) which was odd. We have never seen a ranger out there before. He was quite friendly though. I somehow got a cool shot of the campsite in the dark too:
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Saturday night I slept well again. It's super quiet in the Suburban, as we found out Sunday morning. I woke to some heavy heavy fog, to the point where it was raining. Sure was glad I set up the canopy yesterday, even though it was for the sun! It kept our picnic table & stuff dry overnight. I looked out to the beach, and saw what I thought was someone who tried to park their 4-runner in a "cool pose"
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The Elk were out too; maybe they like the fog. Anyway, it turns out these people arrived around 11:30 or so Saturday night, and, well, thought backing down the sandy slope was a good idea. It wasn't, they were stuck good. I haven't uploaded the photos of the recovery yet, however our Suburban had little to do with the extraction.

The morning was so wet, you could hear the fog "falling" from the trees in the surrounding forest:
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I felt the morning was absolutely beautiful. I remember when I was younger camping in Vermont, and it would tend to rain when we were out there, so I certainly don't mind the moisture. The air near the ocean is clean too, so it didn't bother my asthma at all.

The sun was attempting to burn the fog off, but it hung around for quite some time as we packed up camp:
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Packing up our camp without a tent I thought should have been easy. The canopy was all wet though, and trying to keep the interior dry while going in & out was difficult. We left our extra wood for whoever wanted it; even though it was pine, it burned a little on the slow side which was nice. Smelled good too!
 

ccarley

Adventurer
Sunday, continued:

After we spent another hour during 2 vehicle extractions on the beach, we finally headed out around 10:00 am. The sun still hadn't burned all the fog off, and the trail was wet in a lot of places.

View from on the way out:
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Foggy forest road:
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I love this drive. It's just so beautiful, even in the fog:
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On the way out, we did have to pull over to let traffic by again. We came across a K5 coming in, again in a tight spot on the trail. I ended up backing into the hillside a bit, allowing the K5 to come right next to us... as a Volvo XC something came flying up behind us. We saw this guy come & go a few times already. The guy in the K5 was quite nice though. Maybe it was the flannel I was wearing, maybe he liked our Suburban, or maybe he could tell we were driving politely, but he wanted to let us go, and block the Volvo for a while LOL. The Volvo though decided to scoot in right behind us as the K5 drove by, so I pulled over again & told the guy to pass me. I didn't want this guy tailgating us all the way back (well, it was only a mile or so until Hwy 1 but still).

After that, it was smooth sailing all the way home. Made it back to Rohnert Park around 2:00 Sunday afternoon, tired, smelly, and hungry. But we had a great time!

I'll get the pictures up of the extractions soon, hopefully today.

Clay
 

Rot Box

Explorer
:wings: Looks like fun!

We don't get nearly enough fullsize trip reports here. Thanks for posting :coffeedrink:
 

john101477

Photographer in the Wild
I was just at Usal a few days before you. We stayed there the tail end of our trip for 2 nights. It was nice while we were there as the fourwheelers had not arrived yet. funny we seen a whole butt load of them when we were driving out tuesday we camped just down from where you were tucked into the trees just a hair. really is a beautiful area. to bad the state of california feels they need to charge $25 a night.

Hey did you ever see a ranger or anything come into the area? we never did...

Here is a link to our trip.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47602
 

ccarley

Adventurer
Recovery on the beach:

Sunday morning, here's a close up of what was going on:
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Really, the little Toyota truck didn't have enough to get up the sandy hill on it's own, much less with the 4-runner on a strap & chain behind it.

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I went over to our neighboring campsite to see if the guy with the big Ford could help out; I saw him driving on the beach the day before (you can see it above) and he seemed to have no problem. He had his truck running already; he was on his way over.

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Pulling from that direction wasn't working, the big Ford was digging holes in the sand.
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So, he drove to the island to see about pulling the 4-runner backwards. I noticed early on, that neither of the front tires were spinning on the 4x4 4-runner...
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He who gets the vehicle stuck, gets wet:
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You can see the water spray from the winch cable here, the winch didn't operate so they were using it like a chain or strap:
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We kept our distance of course. After a few pulls, the 4-runner finally was pulled out:
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They were very appreciative of our (minimal) assistance. I'm sending them the photos too. It turned out that one of the CV half-shafts on the 4-runner had blown up both CV joints, thus rendering the front axle ineffective. They were able to drive it out at least!
 
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ccarley

Adventurer
Then, on the way out, we saw a van that was stuck in the sandy portion of the parking lot. I offered to pull them out of the hole they were in... I'm pretty sure this is the van that passed us on the way in.

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They were a greasy bunch of guys. They didn't really want my help at first, which I thought was weird, but they gave in & let me pull them out. I had to pull them about 20 feet before the van stopped wheel-hopping & digging holes.

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And then they left it there, off to the beach to find their buddies.

Clay
 

ccarley

Adventurer
I was just at Usal a few days before you. We stayed there the tail end of our trip for 2 nights. It was nice while we were there as the fourwheelers had not arrived yet. funny we seen a whole butt load of them when we were driving out tuesday we camped just down from where you were tucked into the trees just a hair. really is a beautiful area. to bad the state of california feels they need to charge $25 a night.

Hey did you ever see a ranger or anything come into the area? we never did...

Here is a link to our trip.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47602

We did in fact see a ranger. It was weird that he shows up at like 9:30 or 10:00 at night.

We got the impression that the fee is high there to keep the "rif raf" out. Not that it helps if the rangers don't stop by often, but he did go around & talk to the people with the quads & large crowds drinking beer. They were far away from us.

Clay
 

haven

Expedition Leader
Clay,

Thanks for posting your report. It brought back memories!
Based on your experiences on the trip, do you have ideas
for modifications to make the truck work better?
 

ccarley

Adventurer
haven,

The first thing that comes to mind is a heat-exchanger type shower! On my list for sure is a second battery (isolated), and possibly some mods to the engine for better cooling & more power. Some of the hills were tough on Hwy 101, but I remember even my Jeep had issues with them. I hate to say it, but a winch may be in my future as well.

Another modification we are considering is a set of sliding windows for the rear sides. We saw them in the LMC catalog, and it sure would be nice to be able to control the interior temps by just reaching up & sliding the window open or closed when you are sleeping in the back.

I still want to upgrade at least the rear axle. I fear that the bearing surfaces are going out anyway, as it looks like (just eyeballing) that the rear wheels are tilted in at the tops. Keeping the 6-lug pattern would be nice since I just got tires a couple of months ago, so I'm considering a 12 bolt, with c-clip eliminators, and maybe maybe maybe a locker.

Oh and for maintenance, I definitley need to get that radiator support mounted to the frame. I found that the nuts are missing, and that is what caused the fan to hit the shroud, as well as the bumper to look like it was twisting the way it was.

Clay
 

john101477

Photographer in the Wild
that spot that the van got stuck in was right in the main area (parking) before the beach. kind of amazed he got stuck there.
Not sure you noticed it but there is a sign designating the area that the toyotas were stuck in as closed for rehab. on the flip side of that up at the "pay station" it says no driving on the beach so it is a catch 22. I suppose if a ranger had a really bad day he could write you up or worse lol.
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
Looks like a great place to go - and I agree on needing more full size friendly trail reports like this, I enjoy them thoroughly!
 

locrwln

Expedition Leader
haven,

I still want to upgrade at least the rear axle. I fear that the bearing surfaces are going out anyway, as it looks like (just eyeballing) that the rear wheels are tilted in at the tops. Keeping the 6-lug pattern would be nice since I just got tires a couple of months ago, so I'm considering a 12 bolt, with c-clip eliminators, and maybe maybe maybe a locker.

Clay

I would vote for a later model 9 1/4 Semi Float 14 bolt. You can find them in early 90's to 98ish ex cab 1/2 ton, 4x4 pk (6 lug of course). You might have to move the perches to fit exactly, but it is much stronger than the 12 bolt.

Nice trip report.

Jack
 

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