Valve Cover and Intake Removal 3.8l

[The Viper]

So my passenger side valve cover has developed a leak and is gonna need to be changed, I was some of you guys who have done this on the gen 3 would chime on about a few questions I have...

How hard is it too remove the upper part of the intake plenum? Any advice on special tools, hidden bolts, etc

Can someone recommend a valve cover gasket that fits correctly with the 3.8l?

I intend to buy Ngk plugs and wires, any Ngk plug Reccommendations (platinum, iridium, etc)?

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated
thanks

EDIT1: also, did they stop making NGK wire set for the 3.8l, i cant find them anywhere, and when i do they are ridiculously priced

 

[nnamssorxela]

Intake is actually very easy to remove. I find it's easiest to keep the two halves together and undo the bolts that are in the middle of the manifold (don't forget the one closest to the firewall). I take the throttle body off with the manifold but you will need to unbolt the throttle body support and the little exhaust pipe.

 

[The Viper]

Intake is actually very easy to remove. I find it's easiest to keep the two halves together and undo the bolts that are in the middle of the manifold (don't forget the one closest to the firewall). I take the throttle body off with the manifold but you will need to unbolt the throttle body support and the little exhaust pipe.

Thanks for that information, are both pieces held on by just those center bolts?

 

[nnamssorxela]

That's correct. Obviously you'll have some brackets, plugs, and hoses to undo as well. Nothing is hidden on the back side except the coolant lines to the throttle body.

You can see the holes for the 7 main bolts.

You will need the gasket that goes here. Part number MR561584. You can also see that the black plastic wire shielding is falling apart. Yours may be fine, but take care to remove it or replace it before valve pulling the covers and letting it fall inside.

 

[The Viper]

@nnamssorxela Thanks for the pics and all the information

Anyone got any recommendations on valve cover gaskets?

Im thinking these...
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2653004&cc=1417250&jsn=386&jsn=386 (Mahle/victor reinz)

or these...
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=261176&cc=1417250&jsn=387&jsn=387&jsn=387 (Felpro Permadry)

or these...
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5232621&cc=1417250&jsn=385 (Magnum maxdry)


EDIT1: i checked the OEM valve cover (md303148) from dealer, they want $32 for just one gasket, yikes!

 

[normal_dave]

$ 23.35 at RC Hill Mitsubishi and worth every penny. Be sure not to over tighten.

 

[The Viper]

$ 23.35 at RC Hill Mitsubishi and worth every penny. Be sure not to over tighten.

why is it worth every penny? did you have a bad experience with another manufacturer

 

[Swank Force One]

Is saving $20 worth the slightly increased chance of doing the job again?

 

[normal_dave]

I used to use Fel-Pro for everything, and they might be fine, but I've read multiple posts here, and on the Aussie Pajero forums regarding valve cover gasket leaks, and the answer across the board(s) was use OEM only, so, that's what I've done with my Montero and Montero Sport.

I think the real problem is the valve cover design itself. As soon as somebody over-tightens your valve cover, the inner liner gets bent/spread. The OEM gasket is high quality, flexible, and the right profile to seat properly in the channel of the valve cover. Be sure to clean out the channel completely, straighten it out all along the perimeter of the cover. Light coating of sealant to secure the gasket to the cover, nothing on the head surface, allow it to tack dry a little before gasket insertion, and cover installation. Very light fastener tightening, in a pattern, with a 1/4" drive ratchet, as soon as you get resistance, stop. maybe 1/4 more turn, wait and check them again.

Here's a post about a valve cover liner issue that shows the gasket problem as well.
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/159848-Valve-cover-inner-liner-separation

It's a fair amount of work to replace the gaskets, and quite troubling to have done all that work, and discover you have fresh seepage at the valve cover, and have to do it all again. Don't skimp here, you can thank us later.

 

[The Viper]

Thanks for all the great info.
I'm gonna go oem on valve gasket, tube seals, and upper plenum gasket.

I ordered denso plug wires and Ngk Platinum plugs

EDIT: The OEM spark plug tube seals were $12 per seal!!!! Thankfully the parts guy felt bad for me and gave me an employee discount on them brang it down to $8/per seal.

 

[maco35]

Please document your work and take a lot of pics. and post results of your project.

 

[The Viper]

Please document your work and take a lot of pics. and post results of your project.

I'll try to take some pics, but I will definitely post back about my experience when it's complete.

 

[Salonika]

I photograph it, draw numbers on the photo, and lay them out on cardboard with those numbers written on it. Might seem like overkill but if you do it that way you'll never put a bolt in the wrong place. Plus if you are working on it over time, you don't have to worry about forgetting. I used to just try and stand them on my work table in the same position as they came from, which worked until I knocked them all around and onto the floor.

 

[The Viper]

I photograph it, draw numbers on the photo, and lay them out on cardboard with those numbers written on it. Might seem like overkill but if you do it that way you'll never put a bolt in the wrong place. Plus if you are working on it over time, you don't have to worry about forgetting. I used to just try and stand them on my work table in the same position as they came from, which worked until I knocked them all around and onto the floor.

thats a great idea, ill prolly end up doing that.

On a side note, what spark plug gap do people use. The NGK platinum i bought are 0.032, the the fsm says 0.028 − 0.031 inch

 

[Swank Force One]

Believe it calls for Iridium, not Platinum.