Warn 8274 help

[MoGas]

I scored an 8274 from a buddy that was going to fix the leak and never got around to it.

Anyhow, I got the lower seal kit and installed it and have the winch mounted on my 80. The cable is off of it.

I have had planetary winches before, but not the Big Dog 8274, so there are a few things I don't understand.


My questions:

How is the cable retained on the drum? There is a hole in the drum, but no place to lock the cable. Do I just put a loop and some cable clips on the inside of the drum?

How does the brake work? There are no wires going to it. Is it centrifugal?

When I power in or out the drum doesn't stop right away like a planetary winch. Is that OK?

Does anyone have video of normal operation?


Thanks,
Dave

 

[motomech]

In my opinion the answer to all your questions is YES.

I have a 8274 and i attached my winch cable by making a loop inside the drum and installing 2 u-bolt style saddle clamps.I'd also look into gettin a synthetic winch rope instead of metal cable!

The brake is automatic just keep the pawl greased and make shure the tiny spring is in working order
My winch takes a little bit to come to a complete stop...but it stops faster when a load is applied.

As for videos id say lots are on youtube.

And if you have some extra coin to spend on it search for a company called GIGGLEPIN....they make a twin motor setup that rocks!They also make parts for the 8274 that are said to be stronger than stock.

 

[Alaska Mike]

I have an 8274-50, but the operation is identical from what I can tell. To be honest, I can't remember how the cable is retained. Might be a clamp on the end of the cable after the cable is fed through the hole. I remember my M8000 had a crimped ferrule on the end and was bolted to the drum.

Every 8274 I've seen continues to spin after you let off the button. You learn to deal with it, as the speed is a nice thing to have.

You might find an owners manual on the Warn site.

 

[Hltoppr]

Face it MoGas...your rig is too new for that winch to look right on....better throw it on an FJ45.... :drool:

-H-

 

[MoGas]

Actually, You can barely see it in there. The commercial ARB is awesome...:shakin:

 

[madizell]

There is a small access plate on the end of the drum, either plastic or pot metal, retained by two screws. Remove this plate and you will be able to look straight into the drum. Pass your cable or rope through the hole and use a cable clamp on the inside, on the cable, so it can't slide back through the hole. Since you should never rely on the retaining clamp to retain the cable under pressure, all you need here is a way for the cable to stay on the drum when slack, so the retaining clamp does not need to be herculean, and you really don't need to double the cable over. With rope I do double it, mostly because it can be done easily taking little space and gives a better hold on synthetic rope if doubled. Or, with rope, just tie a figure-8 knot in the end and call it good to go. While you have the end cap off, look at the bushing on the end of the drum. If it is clean and lubed, put the cap back. If dry and dirty, take the end support off the winch and remove it, clean and lube the nylon bushing, and return all parts to their original position. If the inside of the drum is dirty, clean it at the same time. You can use a bit of silicone sealant on the cap and screws if you plan on deep water crossings, but the drum is going to leak a bit anyway, so sealing it is up to you. Probably better to just pull the cover and let it dry if you submerge the drum for anything longer than a few moments, and if sealed, you will still need to pull the cover and remove condensation from time to time. Up to you.

 

[madizell]

How does the brake work? There are no wires going to it. Is it centrifugal?

When I power in or out the drum doesn't stop right away like a planetary winch. Is that OK?

The brake is sort of centrifugal. There are, IIRC, 22 round balls (could be wrong here as I have not had one apart in a while) inside the brake assembly that run on ramps. If the pull on the drum overrides the force on the drive assembly, the balls run up the ramps and clamp the brake drum to the hub, much like an old style bicycle brake bake in the days of the one-speed bike. BEWARE, this assembly is under spring pressure and is VERY difficult to take apart and reassemble if you have not done it before. To take it apart, remove the assembly from the shaft, rotate the hub parts against each other until they are as close together as they will go (this relieves pressure on the balls) use at least one and better to use two vise grips to secure the drum and hub to each other, then remove the retaining ring. Release the vise grips slowly, and do this where you can catch or find all the darned balls when they fall out, which they will. Clean all parts, lightly lube the shaft and the ball races, use enough grease or assembly lube to retain the balls in the races, put the center spring back in and assembly the drum and hub, press down as hard as you can and again retain the parts with vise grips, and get the snap ring back on.

The first time I took a brake apart, I was on a gravel driveway and didn't realize the amount of spring force inside. It took a while to find all the balls, and it didn't help that I didn't really know how many there were. Be warned.

As far as drum run-out, there is a massive gear assembly inside the case. The winch continues to spool after letting go of the control because of stored energy. It is one of the "features" of the 8274, and you just have to be aware that it does not stop instantly. Try to avoid the temptation to reverse the motor to stop the winch. This is really hard on the winch.

 

[motomech]

This is the page i used to rebuild my 8274

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/8274/index.html

 

[KevinNY]

Actually the 22 balls are just ball bearings. The brake is actuated by line pressure which cams a ramp on the shaft that pulls the brake assembly together in compression against the friction pads. According to warn it can take up to 500 lbs of force to actuate the brake, but it clamps tighter the more weight on it. They are very easy to rebuild, probably their best feature. I've replaced the freespool clutch, had the motor rebuilt, done the brake service kit and the lower housing seal kit on mine. Good as new and ready for another 30 years.

 

[JeepN95YJ]

Warn 8274-50 owners manual from Warn's site:

http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/images/59/38292D3.pdf

Main page with parts lists links etc.

http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/M8274-50.shtml

 

[madizell]

According to warn it can take up to 500 lbs of force to actuate the brake, but it clamps tighter the more weight on it.

I have had the brake lock with more like 20 or 30 pounds of force applied to the line. It is the differential between drag on the line and drag on the gear set that triggers the brake. if there is no drag in the gear assembly, it probably would take 500 pounds of force applied to the line to set the brake. However, the gear assembly is massive, and if you use gear lube in the case, the additional parasitic drag is so significant that the brake will set with one-handed pull on the line if you try to accelerate the line too fast.

 

[Antichrist]

I have had planetary winches before, but not the Big Dog 8274, so there are a few things I don't understand.

Not sure if you're implying it is or not, but the 8274 isn't a planetary winch, it's spur gear.

How is the cable retained on the drum? There is a hole in the drum, but no place to lock the cable. Do I just put a loop and some cable clips on the inside of the drum?

As I recall, it's a thimble on the end of the cable, but I'd have to check one of mine to say for sure. (I have 5 winches and get them mixed up on details like that)

When I power in or out the drum doesn't stop right away like a planetary winch. Is that OK?

Normal operation. Means you have to be extra careful spooling in with no load, watch those fingers!