Weeping swivels

[Pad]

Well my swivels are almost gushing!
Anyone have a temp. solution until I have time to tear the front appart? Already switched to a heavier oil, honey consistancy, which has worked on other trucks that have a seeping problem. But not this one, pumped a few shots of bearing grease in them but not sure how far I should go with that. Just dont want to fry my birfields before I can take the truck out of commision for a fix.
Your 'tricks' may be good to know for field repair too.

Thanks for your input,
Pad

 

[MuddyMudskipper]

I've never heard of any sort of bandaid fix for leaky swivels but you may want to try discoweb.org and do a search.

 

[revor]

Grease... That's how LR fixed it.. Go buy a couple tubes of One Shot Swivel/cv grease from the dealership.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Teriann has a quick(er) fix on her site for replacing the swivel ball seals without tearing apart the axle, and you could always see if the oil thickener would do the trick.

 

[TeriAnn]

Teriann has a quick(er) fix on her site for replacing the swivel ball seals without tearing apart the axle, and you could always see if the oil thickener would do the trick.

Gosh Geeee Mikey, at least give him the URL for the page.

quick fix for hub leaks page

If you do indeed have birfields then you have an early Series I Land Rover & one shot grease will work.

If you have a coiler you have CV joints and one shot grease will work.

If you have a late Series I through Series III you have U joints & the one shot grease is a bit thick to flow into the smaller space and properly lubricate the needle bearings. Its good enough for short trips with the hubs locked but you would not want to put long miles on it with the hubs locked.

However, if you keep the vehicle in 2WD and the hubs unlocked it doesn't matter what you use as the axles will not be rotating and you will not be building up a lot of heat at the joints.

On the other hand, the Land Rover 1 shot grease works really well in the Series steering box.

 

[Pad]

Thanks everyone!
I have CV's (90 RR) thus the ergency (well kinda) for a temp. repair.
I did make it to TerriAnns site, heck I even had it on my 'favorites', Thanks a ton!
The 'cut and wrap' fix seems a bit much for this time, well let see if all the bolts come loose first, since its a recent truck to me I still want to repack bearing ect, etc,etc. But I will remember the trick for bush repair.
Think for now I will put more grease in it until later this month, hope to have more time then.

Thanks again and again,
Pad

 

[ttravis5446]

I need to tear down my front axle this weekend to replace a swivel housing and new wheel bearings. Been putting it off for a little while and not looking forward to it.

 

[JackW]

Also try gently cleaning out the junk from under the lip of the seal with some kind of thin plastic scraper. Sometimes the leaks are caused by trash that gets under the seal and removing it will slow it down.

 

[KingSlug]

Now this might sound a bit wacky, why not seperate the axle housing and swivel ball with everything still attached. Pull the whole thing out including the axle shaft, replace swivel ball seal and slide the whole thing back together. You might need a friend for the slide out and in.

If I was in the field I would do TAW's fix but if you are in the garage just pull the whole thing out and replace the seal.

Jared

 

[azarmadillo]

Well my swivels are almost gushing!
Anyone have a temp. solution until I have time to tear the front appart? Already switched to a heavier oil, honey consistancy, which has worked on other trucks that have a seeping problem. But not this one, pumped a few shots of bearing grease in them but not sure how far I should go with that. Just dont want to fry my birfields before I can take the truck out of commision for a fix.
Your 'tricks' may be good to know for field repair too.

Thanks for your input,
Pad

Always use grease.