Wheel Spacers good or bad?

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
My simple take on this is to look at the bearing's relative size. If the outer bearing is 70% of the inner bearing then it's load capacity is 30% less then that of the inner bearing. That is all a very hand-wavey, wet thumb in the wind method, but it'll get you to some understanding if not actual numbers to crunch and then try to interpret.

How far you can push the wheel (& therefore TIRE) centerline is dependent on that relative size. If the outer bearing is 1/2 the size of the inner, then clearly the inner bearing is intended to carry most of the load and foolish is he or she who moves much of the load out onto the outer bearing.
In designs where the outer bearing is significantly smaller than the inner bearing the WMS (Wheel Mount Surface) is typically placed very close to the inner bearing. Where both bearings are the same size or nearly so, the WMS tends to be placed equidistant between them. Those designs are not accidents.

IMHO spacers are for correcting offset mismatches or minor clearance problems only. In some cases track cars and "rock racers" can use them to great advantage in tuning the chassis. In those situations lives are not left stranded in the boonies due to their failure and seasoned racers know better than to use cast spacers.
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
R_Lefebvre said:
I see there is lots of confusion about this topic. Part of the problem is that you are talking "backspacing" which is a really bad term to use, because it is not accurate enough for the calculation we are wanting to make. The problem is that we really don't care too much about the backspacing, what we really want to know is the "Offset"...

While I fully agree offset is often a better term to use, not in this case where rim widths were never stated, The backspace is still the most commonly used term in the 4x4 world, no two ways about it. If you know the width of the wheel (which we'll assume the purchaser does), and you know the stated BS, then you know the offset, can't have one without the other :D

When I order custom wheels, its width, OD and backspace... offset is never discussed :sombrero:
 

James86004

Expedition Leader
I have heard from other sources that the bearings on the Series LRs and the RRCs and Disco Is are robust enough to tolerate a fair amount of offset.

I also read that it is desirable from a steering point of view to have the line drawn along the axis of the kingpin intersect the ground at the center of the tire contact patch. Which means if you increase the diameter of the tire, you should also offset it.
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
James86004 said:
...I also read that it is desirable from a steering point of view to have the line drawn along the axis of the kingpin intersect the ground at the center of the tire contact patch. Which means if you increase the diameter of the tire, you should also offset it.

This is correct, in an ideal situation you have zero scrub radius (meaning your angle of inclination originates at the centerline of the tire. However this is rarely the case with modern 4x4's and the scrub radius (distance beween the kingpin pin inclination and the wheels centerline) is designed into the steering system to provide adequate control.
 

MuddyMudskipper

Camp Ninja
cruiseroutfit said:
While I fully agree offset is often a better term to use, not in this case where rim widths were never stated...

16" x 6.5" - 2 3/4" offset in case you were wondering. :safari-rig:
 

craig

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I ran stock Rover 16" alloys with Scorpion Racing wheels on and offroad for a year or more and it worked perfectly. I switched to a steel Pro-comp Moab rim with even less backspacing and things were terribly difficult. Balancing the wheels/tires was hard, my steering has developed some wear issues, and the vehicle doesn't track as well. On the positive side, I have a very tight turning radius, and the vehicle handles much better in corners and on sidehills.

I've never had any trouble with my hubs with either spacers or offset rims.

Craig
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
cruiseroutfit said:
This is correct, in an ideal situation you have zero scrub radius (meaning your angle of inclination originates at the centerline of the tire. However this is rarely the case with modern 4x4's and the scrub radius (distance beween the kingpin pin inclination and the wheels centerline) is designed into the steering system to provide adequate control.

Yes, zero scrub radius is, again, ideal, but rarely achieved. The Focus actually achieved it from the factory, and that combined with a few other things resulted in 0 torque steer, even from a FWD car. I ended up with aftermarket wheels with 10mm less offset than stock, moving them out a big, and it resulted in tramlining and a little bit of torque steer.
 

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