Where to get in-line circuit fuses / breakers for aux battery install

thethePete

Explorer
Just want to chime in and stress the importantce of fusing your circuits as close to the power source as possible... I'm in the process of replacing an engine harness, egr cooler, and battery harness for a brand new F550 (less than 6000km, still has the factory oil filter) because of a poor upfitter install for a dump bed.

The power wire was run roughly a foot from the battery to the circuit breaker, however, it was routed past a bracket that eventually cut the power wire sheath and created a dead short before the circuit protection. Welded itself to the motor and burned that corner of the truck. They got lucky, it's still drivable, and hopefully it'll be good as new when we're done with it. The body shop has the hood.... If I think of it when I get to work this morning, I'll post some pictures.

Also, to answer the question the OP actually asked, racing supply stores, or truck part stores (Traction supply, et al) are decent local places to get stuff. Marine gear is great, but it's not the only answer; there is a great assortment of automotive stuff that works just fine. Car audio shops are also a good source if you want something sleek and inline.
 

thethePete

Explorer
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8 hours or so to go. Whee haw.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk
 

heyman.niceshot

New member
Littelfuse FTMFW

I have these on 4GA Marine cable protecting my 100A Switch Pro SP8100 power distribution and switch system. They are stupid small, use Littelfuse designed MIDI fuses, are inexpensive, and are easy to purchase from Waytek Wire, a great place for electrical components provided the minimum purchase quantities aren't to many.

In-line MIDI fuse holder
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46312/Littelfuse-04980921GXM5-Inline-MIDI-Fuse-Holder/

MIDI fuse info
http://m.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-passenger-car/high-current-fuses/498.aspx

100A
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46386/Littelfuse-0498100-M-MIDI-Bolt-Down-Fuse/

they have 80A fuses as well and can easily be protected from the elements with RTV/Dielectric/heat shrink

I would use a larger gauge, I use 1/0 cable to tie the positive end of the starter battery to the positive terminal of the Aux battery behind my rear seats in the cab. It's about a 12 foot run as well.You want your fuse as close as possible to the starter battery to protect the cable, which in turn protects you and your truck from catching fire. Make sure you test for voltage drop and use the calc tables online to ensure you are using thick enough cable to ensure your Aux battery is charged appropriately.
 
Last edited:

thethePete

Explorer
^ Those look like good stuff. A nice tidy way to connect your aux fuse box too.

Also, for the record, I'm 9h into that job, the cab is still off and I'm waiting on a backordered engine harness; when it arrives, I suspect it will take around another 9-10h to complete the swap and button everything back up.
 

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