Wireing a 89 Coleman Colorado

[TexasTJ]

Last summer I striped and Re-built a 1989 Coleman Colorado pop up. These little Trailers do not have any electrics other than the driving lights. I am wanting to add a deep cycle battery system to power the trailer. I want to keep it really simple. I would like to just have two Wall out lets to charge phones/ computers with and run a small electric heater. Also I wouldn't mind having a two outdoor plugs as well just because you never know. no lights or anything like that I'm happy using an LED lantern for that. The only other thing of course is I would like to be able to recharge the battery with the TR while driving. Ive tried to search and I'm not really finding any diagrams that I think will work for me. Can anyone point me in the right direction???

Thanks

Nate

 

[Grim Reaper]

Its really pretty simple set up. Your best option is going to be to change out the plug to the 7 pin and that will also give you the terminals needed to add brakes and a AUX you can use for reverse lights.
Well Hell I was going to find you a list of parts but ran across this really good explanation and diagrams. Much better then I could explain.

http://www.etrailer.com/question-18098.html <----------Go to the link for the diagrams.

Parts Needed for Adding a Charging Circuit for a Trailer Battery while Towing with a 2008 FJ cruiser

Question:

Hi, Have converted from 4 pin to 7 and everything is working fine. Question is, is all I need is #10 wire and inline circuit breaker? Do I have to do anything at the fuse block on the Fj? and Will the in-line circuit breaker prevent my truck battery from being run down? or do I need something to prevent drainage?

asked by: dana

Expert Reply:

You have it figured out. You will need an appropriate length of 10 Gauge Wire, item # 10-1-1, and a 40 amp circuit breaker, item # PK54540, to provide 12 volt power to the trailer connector at the rear of your FJ. This will provide a maintenance charge to the trailer battery while towing the trailer. You will not need to make any changes at the fuse block on your vehicle. The 12 Volt power wire connects to the number 4 position inside your 7-way connector, see the photo in the trailer wiring diagrams FAQ linked here.

The power wire is connected from the trailer connector to the Auxilliary side of the circuit breaker and from the Battery side of the circuit breaker to the positive terminal of the vehicle battery. You should remove the ground cable from the vehicle battery before connecting the power wire from the circuit breaker.

The inline circuit breaker will protect the vehicle and trailer from any type of short circuit or power surge that may occur, but will not isolate the battery from the trailer connection when the the trailer is connected to the vehicle. Most people simply unplug the trailer from the back of the vehicle when they get to their camping destination, to keep the vehicle battery from being discharged.

We do offer the Tow Ready Battery Isolation Solenoid, item # TR118665, which will shut down the connection from the vehicle battery to the trailer connector when the vehicle ignition is off. It would be a good idea to install the battery isolator if you plan to leave the trailer connected to the vehicle for extended periods, when the vehicle is not running. The isolator also installs inline with the power wire to the trailer connector. You will need a switched ignition source to attach to the 12 volt source on the isolator and the isolator needs to be mounted to the vehicle chassis for a ground connection.

expert reply by: Bob G

That covers the battery hook up. I'd really recommend the Isolation solenoid to prevent accidental discharge of the truck battery.

The rest will depend on where you locate your battery. The quick way would be a battery box on a the tongue with some inline fuse to the outlets. I'd go with surface mount double lighter style for the inside and get a cig plug USB converter. With it begin a tent trailer I'd just put one up by the bed and one by the entry inside out of the elements. You can always tuck it under the edge of the canvas if you want to have what ever you are charging or powering outside.

What you want to run is pretty low consumption so you could get away with a smaller (and cheaper) battery like one used on a lawn tractor. If you eventually think you want to run an inverter for 110 stuff then a big deep cycle would be best.

 

[TheThom]

Wiring diagrams

Wire and fuse size info

Solar panel setup

 

[TexasTJ]

Thanks for the info this is what I have been trying to find.

 

[Woods]

Looks like most of your questions have been answered, but I picked up on something. I believe that you'll find a 12 volt heater to be pretty useless in a tent trailer. I'd recommend a little buddy propane heater, or something that can put out some btu's. Even a coleman 3000 btu catalytic heater might work.

I'll be interested to see if anybody has any differing opinions on this.

 

[Woods]

I'd really recommend the Isolation solenoid to prevent accidental discharge of the truck battery.

Hey Grim,

I'm curious why solenoids and not relays? I know that solenoids are the industry standard, but is there any reason a relay wouldn't work as well?

 

[TexasTJ]

Looks like most of your questions have been answered, but I picked up on something. I believe that you'll find a 12 volt heater to be pretty useless in a tent trailer. I'd recommend a little buddy propane heater, or something that can put out some btu's. Even a coleman 3000 btu catalytic heater might work.

I'll be interested to see if anybody has any differing opinions on this.

Yeah I talked to a guy on Popup Portal and he explained why on that to me so I am going to start out with the Mr Heater.

 

[Woods]

Thank you for the explanation. I wired my trailer power from the vehicle with a 30 amp relay. It charges a small wheel chair battery, so it sounds like I'm fine with a relay.

Relays & solenoids ARE the same thing. at least in an this context of automotive wiring systems.
But in typical automotive vernacular, a solenoid is rated to switch a very high current (but maybe or not capable of continuous duty),
Relays not necessarily so, And relays may often have several contacts while a solenoid is typically a single contact.

Also solenoid coils are typically axial wound core assembly with a movable plunger within its central cavity, where as relays typically have a different arrangement of its wound coil & moving mechanical parts.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Hey Grim,

I'm curious why solenoids and not relays? I know that solenoids are the industry standard, but is there any reason a relay wouldn't work as well?

Either would work. Solenoids are usually rated higher working amperage for a cheaper price. The down side is they require more amperage to engage. The one listed in that link is $19 and rated 80 amps. Probably draws 2 amps to energize.

If you use a Relay you just need to make sure its rated well beyond what you fuse it at. A TRUE 80 amp relay is about $40-50 and probably draws less then 1/2 amp to engage. Now something to watch out for, A lot of what says its a relay when you search "80amp relay" is actually solenoids.

The one upside to a solenoid design is they have a heavier spring they work against and if something bad happens they will be less likely to weld the contacts together and get stuck engaged with no power to the energizing circuit.

Since we are starting to get more in depth with this One thing to keep in mind is when you run a house battery down on the trailer and then charge it off the vehicle is when it starts charging its going to pull a lot of current and its pretty rough on the alternator. Make sure your alternator is in good shape.
Japanese cars in particular often run the bare minimum alternator especially if it doesn't have power options (windows locks A/C). A 4cyl pickup from the 80's probably only has a 40-50 amp alternator. My tow pig burb has a 120 amp alternator as part of the tow package to deal with the need to charge house battery on a camper.

Swapping an alternator is usually not a big deal and often within the same brand you can find an alternator that will work with the stock mounts but better rated...for instance I know my 89 Supra had a 90 amp alternator and its the same size and shape as a 86 Carrolla that came with a 45amp rated alternator.

Now be careful with alternator swaps becaseu there is more too it then just the alternator. The charge wire back to the battery may not handle the extra current of a second battery so grabbing your power there for the second battery may cause you problems like blown charge fuses or fusible links. If you are doing a charge upgrade to deal with a house battery on a trailer I'd recommend bypassing all of the tow vehicles wiring and connect at the main lug on the alternator with a Fuse or circuit breaker and a solenoid (or relay) to disconnect when the key is off. That will keep from putting any extra load on the stock wiring.