WJ Grand Cherokee Higher Mileage I6 or V8, Interior Length?

[PHeller]

I'm considerably more experienced with the XJ as my father owned two (and a CJ, ZJ), now my buddy owns one of my father's old XJ's (200k, lifted 3", 32s) , and another buddy has got one (240k, 5", 32s), and my in-laws have got one too (stock, 150k).

In general, I'd consider the 4.0L I6 one of the most reliable engines around. Gets decent MPG too, and has no problems (in the XJ) cruising at 75mph.

I've been wanting a 2003+ 3.8L Montero for awhile, but I just can't find one close enough in my budget to be able to snatch one up, so I've started eyeing the beast I know: the 99-04 WJ with a 4.0L. My plan would be simple. Mild lift, 31s.

The most important aspects of whichever vehicle I choose: Sleep Inside Comfortably without needing to slide front seats forward dramatically and ease of engine repair (or overall high mileage reliability).

1: So, at over 150,000 miles, which would you rather be tasked with maintaining: the 4.0L or one of the V8s available in the WJ?

2: What is the interior length from hatch to back of front seats with rear seat folded down? (clevis pin mod)

 

[Jeeptrip Pete]

I currently have an '04 WJ, 4.0. I have the stock 3.55s and run 265-75-16s on the stock wheels, with a 3" IRO and an added boost from a 10mm OME spacer. She does fine on the highway.

I also prefer the 4.0 motor. I've had a 4.0 TJ go 240K+ with no issues, an 03 4.0 WJ we bought new go to 215K+, never even had the valve covers off. Sold the TJ, and traded the '03 WJ for a new WK2.

I do sleep in the back of my WJ, and I'm 6'2". I found it more comfortable sleeping angle-wise back there though. Removing the rear seat bottoms as you noted is a help. It's doable, but I prefer sleeping in my Suburban.

In a WJ, I would recommend the straight Laredo trim. 242 case, single HVAC control. Dual climate control can be troublesome, as can the higher end transfer cases.

I know there are guys who love the V8s, but my personal experiences have been that the 4.0 will run forever given even marginal maintenance. There are some occurances with piston skirt breakage, but it's never hit me.

I got my WJ at 93,000. It now has 160,000.

Good luck.
Pete

 

[PHeller]

Jeeptrip Pete, could you compare the pros and cons of the Suburban vs the WJ?

I've looked at 9thGen Suburbans as well for their additional length and similar highway mileage.

 

[comptiger5000]

Get the V8. As long as you don't overheat it, they're solid engines. The WJ 4.0s have the 0331 head crack issues, so some significant portion of them will eventually crack the head with no provocation. And every once in a while (it's pretty rare though), 96+ 4.0s will break a piston skirt for no reason. They're just not the bulletproof engines the early 4.0s were.

Also, the V8s get a better trans than the 4.0s. 4.0 WJs are also pretty underpowered, especially once you load it up with gear. And the fuel economy difference isn't all that large due to the V8 being a more modern engine with a more modern trans behind it.

 

[Jeeptrip Pete]

Jeeptrip Pete, could you compare the pros and cons of the Suburban vs the WJ?

I've looked at 9thGen Suburbans as well for their additional length and similar highway mileage.

Pheller, I'm surely not the all-knowing, but the Burb is a great truck in my mind. Mine is a 1998, 1500 4x4. I tow my YJ around for wheeling, and just generally use the Burb for camping, hauling stuff, I've had it full of cordwood, all kinds of things. It can take a 4x8 sheet of plywood inside, 8' lumber, with the rear seats down, and then flip the seats up and still carry 4-5 people if you want to. I have the third row seat, so you can carry even more people if you like.

It's got over 170,000 miles now. I have replaced the factory intake gasket, which the Dexcool coolant likes to eat. Other than general maintenance, it's never needed anything major. I did put a radiator in it, and stainless brake lines. The brake lines like to rot on these.

I got it at about 120,000 and many of the miles I've put on it have been towing the YJ on a trailer.

It sits a lot, but I've had it for.... I don't even know... 8 years now I guess. It's a solid truck. Body's not rotting, and it sits outside.

A few complaints:
I don't find the 1/2 ton brakes are all that good on the truck -- it's a lot of truck for 1/2 ton brakes, in my opinion.
I find the steering design to be a bit lacking in ruggedness. The idler arm system just has too many joints. But it's fine. Mine may be a bit loose at 170K, but I've had it looked at, and my guy just says "that's how it is."

It's comfy to drive, comfy to tow with, comfy to sleep in, relatively easy to work on, parts are everywhere. It's a good truck. I'm not sure I'd want to drive it everyday - it's not a small truck to take to the crowded grocery store, if that's an issue for you.

Factory towing package: 3.73s, oil cooler, tranny cooler. I got mine for a song when gas first started to rise years ago and people got scared. Came with the window sticker and all, was garaged, well taken care of. Was one of my better buys.

Expensive to lift I suppose, if you're headed that way. Mine stays stock. I did put an add-a-leaf in back to prevent sag with the trailer on. I'm sure 170K on the springs hasn't helped. I will replace this Burb with a newer used one, if that time ever comes. As long as it doesn't rust away, it should be repairable for a good long time.

Good luck,
Pete

 

[chasespeed]

Depends on how far you want to build it.
The V8 has proven itself to be pretty reliable.

That being said, I went for the 4.0
The 4.0 is damn solid.
The D35 is a more reliable rear axle than the d44a
Get the 242 tcase
The 42re, I'm not a fan of, but, swapping in a 5spd is something I am currently looking into(since I'm not a fan of any automatics).

I'm running 4.10s and currently 32s. Feels damn good, very driveable, in fact, I'd argue better than stock.

But, if you have plans to upgrade the axles, etc, the v8 is a great option.

Chase

 

[comptiger5000]

The D35 is a more reliable rear axle than the d44a
Get the 242 tcase

This one is an interesting dillema. The D44a is a bit more finicky than the D35 (and more likely to eat bearings), but other than that (and especially if you truss it), it's a good bit stronger than the D35.

For the transfer case, V8 with a 242 exists, but it's tough to find. Realistically, the 247 works fine off-road, as they have the same low range and both lock in 4lo. The only thing you really give up is a locked high range (247 high range is RWD until you spin the tires, at which point it transfers power forward).

 

[Mitch502]

I disagree that d35 is stronger than a d44a.


They have different failing points...

d44a bearings fail over time, and begin to "rumble"
d35 are known to be weak when you start going over 31" tires (or even at 31")

So it just depends. I know there are plenty of people who have used both, abused both, and they're still running fine. Personally, I'd rather have a bearing start making noise as a warning, as opposed to the diff exploding off road. Not necessarily right or wrong, just personal opinion. Trac-Loc is easier to find in a d44a I'm sure, but trac loc is known to be weak, especially with mileage anyways.

What I'm really saying is don't let the rear diff (or tcase) be a deciding factor. If Flagstaff, AZ is anything like Louisville, KY, I can go to the junkyard and there are 20 WJ's to pick a rear diff from or a t case from, each costs under $100. Or there is always just building something to withstand what you use it for, like a Ford 8.8.

 

[chasespeed]

First I said the D35 was MORE RELIABLE. Never said it was "stronger".

I worked in a Jeep dealership when the WJ released upon the masses. No amount of money can convince me otherwise on the 2 axles.

I'd be more worried of bending a tube on my D35 than "blowing the diff". And I'm locked, and bigger than 31s. I'm more concerned about th CV D30 in the front, than the D35 in the rear.

Is it optimal? Hell no. Is there a swap in my future? Yep. Just depends on what I finally decide on.

Chase

 

[Mitch502]

First I said the D35 was MORE RELIABLE. Never said it was "stronger".

I worked in a Jeep dealership when the WJ released upon the masses. No amount of money can convince me otherwise on the 2 axles.

I'd be more worried of bending a tube on my D35 than "blowing the diff". And I'm locked, and bigger than 31s. I'm more concerned about th CV D30 in the front, than the D35 in the rear.

Is it optimal? Hell no. Is there a swap in my future? Yep. Just depends on what I finally decide on.

Chase

Interesting. I, too, have CV's in the front. I was going to swap them for u-joints, but I read something that made me reconsider...having a spare cv joint style shaft is easy enough and cheap enough. Quicker to replace the whole axle and easier on the trail than repairing a u joint axle. Then again I don't wheel that hard...

 

[comptiger5000]

The CV shafts on the D30s aren't any weaker than the u-joint shafts. And if you've got the steering turned near full lock, they're likely stronger than the u-joints. And the CVs are dirt cheap to carry spares of anyway.

FWIW, people have wheeled a WJ on 35s and 37s with a stock D30 and D44a under it. It would require some very extreme care to make the D35 live under those conditions, and even then, you'd break it (or at least a shaft) at some point.

 

[MrWesson]

WJ's are great but you will have to do one mod to sleep comfortably IMO.

Basically sets up the folding seats so they are removable and reinstall with a pin. I kept the rear right installed and the rear left out almost always(its wider).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db-GHHeYJyw

With both removed I once inflated a queen airbed in the back but it hugged every surface and would probably get a puncture.


I've owned 2 WJ's so maybe I can help with choice.

If you want to stay with 31's then I have to recommend a V8 4x4 Quadradrive model. I owned one and it seriously outperformed my other WJ that had all the same options but - Quadradrive. Its basically front and rear LSD but the system is far from what you'd consider modern.. Lots of wheelspin but it works. Downside is it wont tolerate larger than 32" tires, engagement requires wheelspin and depending on if the vehicle was taken care of may not function at all(LSD need friction modifier).

I like leather vs cloth and the WJ leather is sturdy as hell.

The V8 is just as good as the 4.0 and the mileage is nearly the same. It hauls *** with the V8.. As long as it hasn't been overheated much you are good to go.

The blend doors fail and seem to do so often. The old way of removing the dash caused some people to simply avoid it if they could(dual zone on almost all V8's) but a new method of cutting under the dash works well and you'd never be able to tell(makes replacing them a snap).

Things to keep an eye out for.

Clutches can fail in the transfer case if neglected(my last one had this problem and I replaced it with used). The upside was that it was dirt cheap @ $90.
The D44a is not the same as the D44. Its not as strong due to its aluminum housing. If you off road you need to protect it and when buying used check the fluid if you have time.
Transmissions seem bulletproof i've never had an issue.
Check to make sure its not burning coolant(early signs of headgasket failure).
The radiators are plastic and they suck. I've replaced 1 on both of my WJ's due to cracking plastic. They're cheap but install can be a pain. There's tricks these days though(like going through the top and not having to remove the front crossmember).
Avoid a rusty one. Being a unibody it spreads like wildfire.

Past that neither of mine left me stranded or needed a tow. I'll also admit to overheating my first one quite a few times(deep into the red/didn't know better/towing/bad radiator) and it had no ill effects at 180,000 miles. They're tough and one of the best buy's you can make in a 4x4 IMO.

 

[Mitch502]

Good point on signaling out the d44a housing. Mountain Vista Fabrication has a skid plate specifically for the D44A you might look into...but for the expense I'd start building a 8.8 unless that's just not what you want to do.

 

[monte350]

Good point on signaling out the d44a housing. Mountain Vista Fabrication has a skid plate specifically for the D44A you might look into...but for the expense I'd start building a 8.8 unless that's just not what you want to do.

i didn't think the 8.8 was for the wj since the 8.8 is typically 5x4.5 bolt pattern and the wj is a 5x5 bolt pattern.

 

[K2ZJ]

i didn't think the 8.8 was for the wj since the 8.8 is typically 5x4.5 bolt pattern and the wj is a 5x5 bolt pattern.

Sorta true. Since an 8.8 is more narrow than stock most people run a spacer. You can run an adapter instead and it is basically the same. Or find a 9".