Wondering if 6x10 cargo trailer can work off road?

film842

Observer
My wife and I have decided that a teardrop, or a converted M416 are going to be too small and so we want a trailer that we can do some long road trips in with some comfort and still be able to go off road in selected areas. Nothing major, just forest service roads and that sort of thing. A converted cargo trailer looks like just the thing, especially since we can build it out the way we want.

Assuming that one switched out axles to one with electric brakes and put on larger tires to give the trailer more ground clearance and we watched the weight, do you think it might be to wide for some light off roading? We could make a 5x8 work if we had to, but would rather have the space of a 6x10.

I would be pulling it with a land rover discovery which has a two inch lift and measures about 6' wide itself. I assume that the fenders of the trailer would stick out beyond the 6' measurement but haven't sorted that out just yet.

Would love some opinions on this. Thanks.
 

film842

Observer
Thanks. I've already read through those and they each have good information.

What I'm really looking for is what happens after the build, especially for those who do some off road. Do they go most places....is weight an issue...what kind of tow vehicle are owners using....that sort of thing.

For me it's going to be either a 5x10 or 6x10. I like the 6x10 because sleeping bunks can be arranged across the width, which frees up quite a bit of room. There should be about 69-71 inches of space and that should work. My plan is to have the kitchen at the rear accessible only from outside. I also want onboard hot water shower either inside or out.

My concern is the width and narrow access on some forest service roads. I think the width on the 6 footer is around 84 inches.

At any rate if anybody has a 6x10 and is doing some off road, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks.
 

matthewp

Combat Truck Monkey
I'm running 5'x9.5' on my custom built frame (6' wide at the fenders) and have had no issues in the Adirondacks. No, they're not double-black-diamond hard rock crawling trails, but I don't have issues maneuvering, even when they're tight spaces to get into campsites.
 

WILLD420

Observer
Having pulled my share of trailers off road for work, I'll share my .02

It will all depend on where you want to wheel it. If you have trees and rocks on either side, you will hate that extra foot of width.

I wheel a Ramcharger and it's a fat pig. I have to constantly watch everything off road, and it makes the days exhausting on tight trails. It also makes some trails impassable without getting out and filling in washed out areas, trimming trees or moving rocks. A trailer is that much worse, since it doesn't steer without moving the tow rig around.

Everything will be a compromise, but there are some places you absolutely will not be able to fit an 84" wide trailer. The thing that would really concern me, is if you are planning to take it on a lot of roads that were pushed out on the side of mountains for mining or logging and they have a steep drop off on one side, with the other side dug into the hill. It doesn't take much to lose a trailer over the edge of one of the notorious wash outs or narrow spots in those roads. Having it pull your tow rig off the side of the mountain would be a bad ordeal. I think I would rather deal with too much length, causing me to drag the tail over things and maybe having to work it a little more in the tight corners, than having to deal with too much width. The added stability of the extra width would probably only be interesting if you plan on long trips where the wind blows a lot.

You have to realize that cargo trailers are a lot like a giant sail behind your truck. If you lift them enough to get down trails, they tend to be fairly tippy, especially with weight on the top. They also wander about a bit at higher speeds due to the flat floor and the propensity to act more like an airplane wing than a downforce device.

A cargo trailer will be fairly fragile. The better built ones have a pretty good steel tubing frame, but the corners are pretty thin on the front and the sides are very thin. The floors are pretty tough, but they are plywood and dragging them across rocks will destroy them and the repairs would be difficult to make pretty again. The fenders are just sheet aluminum and most trailers have them installed in such a way that they are not easily removable for replacement. Cargo trailers also tend to have barely adequate axles for the rougher terrain. If you buy one that has the rubber torsion axles, they don't articulate at all on rough surfaces and you will find they ride very rough will tend to bounce all over the place, sometimes even causing them to suffer from rollovers after hitting a large bump at speed. If you buy one with a regular axle and leaf springs, the springs will not ride very smooth unless you do some work to them, or replace them for something longer, since trailer springs are meant to haul loads on pavement, not down washboard roads and rocks. The axles will also need to be upgraded. Most of these trailers will come with a 2800-3000 lb capacity axle, some with a 3500 lb axle. I would not run anything lighter than a 6K lb axle off road. Otherwise you are going to be straightening them a lot when the spindles either bend, or crack and separate from the main tube.

It can be done, but there is a reason the better built off road trailers are expensive. You can either save the money up front and spend it on labor and parts, or buy one made for the job.
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
I use a 6x10, and to get around the problem of width, I had the wheels set inside the body, rather than on the outside. By comparison, the pull vehicle, a '96 Bronco, is about 2.5" wider than the 6' frame of the trailer. I switched the axle out, so it's the exact same as the truck. I've never had much of an issue fitting down anything the truck can fit down, but my is built pretty heavy, and that has stopped me a few times. I have plenty of ground clearance and lockers, but still I've almost gotten stopped while crawling up a steep gravel areas because of the weight and it's an area that a Subaru Outback got up with a lot of momentum. I truly believe that weight is the biggest issue you'll have. You can see more of the build in the thread shown in the signature if you're interested. Feel free to ask questions.



Don

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tgreening

Expedition Leader
I guess you really need to define for yourself what constitutes "offroad". When I think it I picture exactly that, no road, period. Even a trail being questionable. A lot of folks say offroad and what they really mean is off pavement. I still say, like mentioned in your other thread asking essentially the same thing, that if you intend to do anything more than the most mild of off road excursions you're likely to regret that big heavy trailer. To think that it wont limit you is wishful thinking. There are places I cant go just pulling my M416, but a lot fewer of them than if I were pulling my M101. It's big, it's heavy, and it will drag you down. If mild dirt two-tracks or gravely service roads are your thing on the way to a fairly easily accessed base camp, then have at it. If you really mean off road, think twice.
 

film842

Observer
Lots of great observations here. Thank you guys for helping me sort this out. I certainly agree with the idea of defining what the term "off road" means for my use. I'm in the Pacific Northwest so skinny roads with lots of trees and rocks on the side is a given, plus we want to explore further north into Canada so again probably the same situation. After that, it's going to be the Rockies, Utah and further south in New Mexico. Not all in one trip.

Looks like 5x10 is the biggest I should consider and maybe even a 5x8. Also, I figured that the trailer itself would need a new higher rated axle with brakes and some other modifications for strength and usability. Also would have a completely enclosed awning, probably a Hannibal for privacy which ever size we chose.

If people are camping successfully in a teardrop, then we should be able to do it in a 5x8 and certainly a 5x10.

Thanks again for your opinions.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Lots of great observations here. Thank you guys for helping me sort this out. I certainly agree with the idea of defining what the term "off road" means for my use. I'm in the Pacific Northwest so skinny roads with lots of trees and rocks on the side is a given, plus we want to explore further north into Canada so again probably the same situation. After that, it's going to be the Rockies, Utah and further south in New Mexico. Not all in one trip.

Looks like 5x10 is the biggest I should consider and maybe even a 5x8. Also, I figured that the trailer itself would need a new higher rated axle with brakes and some other modifications for strength and usability. Also would have a completely enclosed awning, probably a Hannibal for privacy which ever size we chose.

If people are camping successfully in a teardrop, then we should be able to do it in a 5x8 and certainly a 5x10.

Thanks again for your opinions.

For sure PNW the tree and narrow tight spots on an otherwise pretty decent road is for sure a factor. I'm in Norcal Currently we have a 4x6 which I love its pretty small though! Having said that 12ft hitch to tail lights has been really NICE! Yes its small but I'm really enjoying the fact it can pretty much go anywhere without any drama also. I think 5ft wide and maybe 8ft long would be my dream size. 10ft box figure about 3-4ft tongue length so hitch to tail lights your pushing 14-15ish feet not counting the length of the tow rig that can start to play into how easy it is to get around in tight spots also. I think 6ft wide is workable but you start getting into that length issue too which is not all that different than being a tad wide. 6x8 I could see being pretty good but getting longer than 8ft and being 6+ fender width wide could start to make it hard to get around tight spots.
 

86scotty

Cynic
I use a 6x10, and to get around the problem of width, I had the wheels set inside the body, rather than on the outside. By comparison, the pull vehicle, a '96 Bronco, is about 2.5" wider than the 6' frame of the trailer. I switched the axle out, so it's the exact same as the truck. I've never had much of an issue fitting down anything the truck can fit down, but my is built pretty heavy, and that has stopped me a few times. I have plenty of ground clearance and lockers, but still I've almost gotten stopped while crawling up a steep gravel areas because of the weight and it's an area that a Subaru Outback got up with a lot of momentum. I truly believe that weight is the biggest issue you'll have. You can see more of the build in the thread shown in the signature if you're interested. Feel free to ask questions.


Don

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Don, how heavy is your trailer?

Thanks
 

86scotty

Cynic
Thanks Don. Sorry to hear you are selling. Excellent build. I'm really thinking about a tandem axle but good to know 3k is somewhat doable offroad.
 

Crusty

New member
Great thread; thanks to Laketek for the list of relevant threads.

I am torn between taking the lazy route and buying a trailer that is already externally ready and just working out the internal build myself. I'm not mechanically inclined, so even if I bought a base model I'd have to pay someone to do the suspension work anyway. Here's what I'm considering getting.

http://www.coloradotrailersinc.com/...d-cargo-trailer-new-cargo-trailer-co-i1940501

1_35653_1940501_42318296.jpg


Should run about $7k out the door with taxes and all. I know I could get a base model for a couple $k less, but by the time I add a lift and 33" tires with wheels, I'm not really saving that much.

I don't do any serious off roading; primary use will be hauling prospecting gear and camping in. Secondary use will be hauling my BMW 1200 GS Adventure on road trips around the country (I loved Elmo's setup and would have bought it if my bike fit inside). The places I prospect are usually rough forest service roads and sometimes pulling off in a place to camp with stumps/small logs, requiring a bit of ground clearance.

I'm towing with a 04 Avalanche. Here it is with my current hillybilly shack on wheels, a 1963 Rolite; used to be a hard walled pop-up, which someone framed upright and then cut out and framed in the back end with a HEAVY ramp door. After taking it on a 6300 mile road trip, resulting in rattling out a lot of screws vibrating loose and it taking a beating, I have sold it to a buddy who's claim I work for $500 (I only had $1000 in it); he plans on just leaving it parked on the claim year round to sleep in.

086-X2.jpg

When I'm camping/prospecting I spend very little time in the trailer, so it is mostly just a gear hauler and a place to sack out. Don't need a kitchen, crapper, or any of that. In my Rolite I have a hammock strung up, so I can sleep in it while on the road, above my gear. My plan is to keep the hammock, though in a 12' trailer I should have plenty of room to put in a bunk at some point.

Thanks for listening to my ramble and for all the great info on this forum!
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
That seems like it would be a great option... I really like the rear roof rack too and steps too. I always wanted to use a hammock as my main sleeping arrangement on my trailer, but that wouldn't work with the family. It would obviously be the easiest to transform into sleeping mode from cargo mode. I've always liked using hammocks for camping though, and find them pretty comfortable.

Make sure it's a 3500lb axle. My opinion is that leaf springs are better than torsion. I have torsion in my new trailer and I'm not super happy with them as they just don't seem to have much movement to them. My old trailer would move 2-3 inches easy going on gravel roads, the torsion axle barely moves at all, even on large bumps. It's going to be change I have to make soon on the new trailer to longer truck leaf springs or maybe the newer Timbren axles. Either will obviously be fine, but your stuff will be bounced around a lot more without the suspension travel. Also, you can always air down the tires off pavement to calm things down as long as you can air them back up for the highway.

Good luck. I'll be looking for the build thread! :wings:

Don

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Crusty

New member
Appreciate the input. Heard the torsion axles make for a rough ride, so I'm leaning towards going with springs.

Biggest struggle now is wanting something I can use now on the several camping trips I'll be on in the next couple months or waiting for something custom to be built.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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