XJ caster issue

dockrat14

New member
I put on a rubicon 3.5 and with the new control arms. The old caster adjusment doesnt work now what is everybody doing with this issue?
 

OverlandZJ

Expedition Leader
Did you opt for ajustable control arms?

IIRC, the factory setup is around 7*, it can get tricky trying to find a good combination of handling and front driveline angle. But at 3.5" you shouldnt have much trouble.
 

wADVr

Adventurer
If you didnt get the adjustable arms, you might get enough out of the LCA frame end adjustment. 7* is probably out of the question but I have found 5* a good compromise.
 

dockrat14

New member
well the adjustment bracket at the frame dosent work for me the rubicon express lca is super beefy compared to the stock ones
 

AFSOC

Explorer
Is switching to adjustable LCAs viable? You can post them on Craigslist and/or other forum classified ads. When I installed my OME 3" springs, I installed RE adj LCAs because I was afraid I wouldn't have enough adjustment range. I know your RE 3.5" yeilds about 5" initially so your problem is compounded. I paid $210 from 4X4Group buy for my adjustable super rides.
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Agreed with adjustable LCA's. I put JKS ones on with my lift. I had found a chart at one time that listed how long the lower arms needed to be based on how much lift. With my 3" lift, it was 1/4" longer.

A new RE lift will definitely be higher than the "advertised" lift. You might have to readjust as things settle in.
 

sjk99

Adventurer
well the adjustment bracket at the frame dosent work for me the rubicon express lca is super beefy compared to the stock ones

Why doesn't it work for you? Is it rust frozen or missing? They can be tight to jam in there along with an aftermarket control arm compared to the stock control arms. People have gone as far as making spreaders with threaded rod, a couple of nuts & washers to spread the sides of the pocket enough to get the bushing and adjustment bracket started into the pocket, removing the spreader and then use a BFH or bottle jack to force the CA/bracket all the way in.
 

dockrat14

New member
well i called out to RE today and they told me that im supposed to use the stock adjuster but i need to bend every thing out so it will fit (woulda be nice if that was in the instructions) but ill dig those out of the parts pile and go from there and save up for some y-arm kit from tnt :Mechanic:
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
Park on level ground and put an angle finder on the flat spot of your upper ball joints. That will tell you if it even needs adjusting. You can run as little as 3 but it will be squirly on the hiway or 10 but it will be hard to steer off road. I run 3 and it handles like a Vette on twisty tight trails and my power steering is super happy and quite strong at those angles. If you arn't sure if your ground is level then measure and turn the vehicle 180 and measure again. Add the numbers and divide by two. http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html
The 97 up spec was 7 and the old spec was 6. This makes them drive nice on the hiway and feel long and stable. 5 or 6 is probable best all around and remember both sides are almost never the same because the axles are almost never that square. What ever you do don't try and force the axle to twist by over adjusting the control arms. Find a happy place where both sides are adjusted and not under tension or compression.
 

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