XJ lower steering shaft install.

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
So yeah, you could have described my XJ's steering as loosey-goosey, floppy, noodle-ish, etc...

Drove me crazy, but I lived with it for a while until recently when i just couldn't stand it any more..lol. :littlefriend:

The shaft in question connects the steering gearbox and the upper steering shaft/wheel at the firewall. On older cherokee's the upper and lower joints are "mini" u-joints just like most other shafts. Whats not familiar (at least to me) is a rubber bushing sleeve that joins the upper and lower shafts.

This rubber bushing was designed to reduce vibration, and tends to deteriorate with age, allowing a lot of movement. Your steering will not catastrophically fail, because the box side of the shaft has ears/flanges that are captured by the steering wheel side.

This meant I could drive my rig, to and from work but it meant a LOT of sloppy movement before the wheel would send input to the steering box.

So I researched and found three choices as far as fixes...

1. Fit a Borgeson steering shaft upgrade...about $250.00 that eliminates the "rubber bushing"

2. weld and/or bolt the upper and lower parts of the shaft together eliminating the movement allowed by the blown bushing.

3. Fit a stock replacement shaft. $109.00


I chose choice three, since I didn't feel safe drilling and welding on something that connects my steering wheel to my steering. Just not worth it to me. And though I feel Borgeson parts are of the highest quality, I felt like the stock replacement shaft was perfectly fine at a significanly lower cost.

So once again, I chose www.Morris4x4.com, and once again, I am 110% satisfied with the service, packing and communication.

Here's the new shaft, came nicely painted. you can see the upper yoke, the u-joint. the bulge after that is where the rubber vibration dampner is found, and was the source of all the movement in my old shaft.
DSC00064.jpg

Steering box end in foreground, firewall end near the DEVO hat...haha!
DSC00061.jpg
 
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BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Install* (1990-1996 XJ cherokee): Install time: 2-3 hours

Tools required

-12mm wrench
-15mm socket
-16mm socket
- Long flathead screwdriver or compact prybar
-blue locktite(if you'd like, yoke screws have lockwashers, too)

Install:

-Park the truck somewhere flat and comfy

-point tires straight ahead

-Loosen bolts(12mm, i think) on top and bottom yokes of shaft (one at firewall, one at steering box)

-Remove stock skid plate (16mm, I think) if you have one (I see, now, what everyone was saying about removing theirs permanantly due to access issues)

-Remove three steering box bolts(15mm, I think), allowing box to move down and sit on tie rod(hybrid soft/hard powersteeing lines allow for enough flex...no worres)

-With bolts COMPLETELY removed from steering shaft (they act as keys in a keyway) gently pry/tap on shaft to get it to slip off splines of steering box. (mine slid off very easily)

-Once you have bottom off, repeat with upper joint. Again with bolt COMPLETELY removed, pull/pry gently with a screwdriver and at this point the shaft should be able to be pulled out of the engine compartment.

To reinstall:

-Remove bolts from new shaft and fit D shaped end onto upper/firewall splines. Put screw in once the bolt hole on the yoke is aligned with the keyway.

-Repeat on steering box splines, making sure that steering wheel has not rotated. Once on, align bolt hole in lower yoke with keyway on the splined output, and replace bolt.

-With both bolts installed finger tight, now its time to get the steering box back on the framerail. This took me a bit of time (30mins or so) for several reasons, including having the aluminium spacer move a bit when I took the box completely off, and as well as having to shift the tires a bit, to get the lower yoke and the D shaped steering box output to line up.

NOT a big deal, though...just a bit of wiggling and taking my time to not crossthread the bolts in the holes, or force anything...

I then torqued everything up, (bolts in shaft, and steering box bolts). Here would be the time
that you'd put blue locktite on the shaft bolts if you prefer to.

My test drive revealed a jeep that drove like a completely different rig. WHAT a difference.

PM or post any questions...:victory:

-Brian

*from what I've heard 1997 and up rigs have a shaft that is collapsable by the installer. This means that steering box removal isn't really necessary. You should just be able to remove the upper bolt, remove the upper yoke from the D-shaped steering wheel output, and then remove the lower one in turn. Re-assembly would be the reverse. Good luck!!
 
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Explorer 1

Explorer 1
You forgot another item.......

You forgot the added protein in the bowl next to the new shaft! :REExeSquatsHL1:

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Glad you got it swapped out. It's always nice to have it steer where you point it. :D

seriously, huh?

I went straight from wrenching/helping @ Jamie's place, grabbed food, said hi to melissa, and then was back out in my garage...lol...

kind of the theme for the day. :elkgrin:
 

mudbutt

Explorer
Very nice... I'll have to check mine tonight, as my Jeep has a case of the wanders...

Only problem is, I can't seem to find the part for a '98....
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Very nice... I'll have to check mine tonight, as my Jeep has a case of the wanders...

Only problem is, I can't seem to find the part for a '98....

Yeah, I see on morris's website that it only goes up to 1994...hmmm.

Maybe still a dealer part?

I'd definitely give quadratrac a try.
 

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
You just had to give me the reponse I wanted to hear, eh? Now I have to add it to my list...the wanders are sometimes sketchy on the frwy.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
You just had to give me the reponse I wanted to hear, eh? Now I have to add it to my list...the wanders are sometimes sketchy on the frwy.

Yeah, its good money spent, though. Hard to have fun on a trip after doing multiple rolls on the freeway due to failed steering. :Wow1: or after your steering fails in the middle of the mohave road or something. :victory:

I'm probably going to to Currie's correctlynk, too...unless I just grab a grand cherokee steering setup. ( a little beefier)
 

mudbutt

Explorer
I'm probably going to to Currie's correctlynk, too...unless I just grab a grand cherokee steering setup. ( a little beefier)

I'm not too sure about that.... I have the Currie s/u and it's about as beefy as you can get. Although I've never seen a ZJ tie rod, drag link...

I bought mine hoping to fix the wandering problem. It helped, but didn't fix the problem completely...
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
I'm not too sure about that.... I have the Currie s/u and it's about as beefy as you can get. Although I've never seen a ZJ tie rod, drag link...

I bought mine hoping to fix the wandering problem. It helped, but didn't fix the problem completely...

Yeah, instead of a stamped/rolled tie rod, its got a solid stock tie rod. there's no significant increase in diameter, I'm told(like the currie setup) but it's supposedly a good 25-30% stronger, while retaining stock rod ends (like the currie setup) with no reaming involved.

still not sure on this...the currie unit is a big chunk of change, and I'm not going to be running big tires at all.
 

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