ZJ Lift Set-up (HELP)

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I'm looking to keep my jeep low, and trim for the tires and wheels. i'd like to run a 33x10.5 sized tire.

i use my vehicle for exploring, not rock crawling.

there must be a million lift kits out there. i don't know if i should just piece my kit together or run a complete kit.

my ideal ideas are to have a 3 link front and rear to get rid of the upper control arms. i'd like it to be long arm. i want it to drive down the highway straight and comfortable as well. i do not trailer my vehicle. i want to do it right the first time and not have to go back and change stuff later. it needs to bolt in because i do not have a welder right now. i can weld, but no equipment while i'm in college.

i'd like to use bilstien shocks. i have used the piggy back 5150 shocks before and i love them. for the money they are worth it.

am i looking for to much just to get 3" of lift with the wants i have?

i've been thinking about doing the front to rear spring swap, but it would probably ride really badly.

FLAME SUIT IS ON

so basically what i need:

Front and Rear style control arms (radius arms design)
track bars
springs front and rear
brake lines??
shocks
 

97tjguzzy

Explorer
why do you insist on radius arms in the rear? Why do you not want the upper arms to attach to the "frame"?
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Cut out flares like Iceland Off-road sells, ~1"-2" budget boost for tuning height and rake, bunpstops as appropriate. Run the biggest metric tires that'll fit because they tend to be a touch narrower than floatation sizes (32" - 33"?). Call it done. Leave the geometry stock otherwise.

$0.02.
 

motomaniac

Observer
at 3~4" of lift with a quality shock you will have a decent ride on adj short arms, but you can always benefit from long arms in the front for better on and offroad ride quality. Rears long arms are not as nessecary at that height. I would also stay with the 33x10.50 15 so you can stay with a c load rating. The equivilate metric size 255/85/16 i believe is only avalibel in higher load ratings and with iceland off road flares you would have no problem running that size tire on a 3~4" lift. my jeep is lifted ~4.5" and i am building my own long arms but it sounds like we have the same goal so i thought id post up my plan to achevie a very capable good mannerd on and off road exploring machine.
 

Booner

Observer
My 98 ZJ rides just fine on a BDS 3" short arm kit with BDS adjustable LCAs. I have 0.75 inch spacers on top of the springs. Bumpers are trimmed, and 32s fit fine, no rubbing. I run Hankook MTs in 31-10.50-15 because my 3.55 gears like them better. I've had no problems off road, and on road handling has been fine. My front is open, with a Detroit TrueTrac in the rear. The ZJ has proven itself amazingly capable off road in this form.
 
My 98 ZJ rides just fine on a BDS 3" short arm kit with BDS adjustable LCAs. I have 0.75 inch spacers on top of the springs. Bumpers are trimmed, and 32s fit fine, no rubbing. I run Hankook MTs in 31-10.50-15 because my 3.55 gears like them better. I've had no problems off road, and on road handling has been fine. My front is open, with a Detroit TrueTrac in the rear. The ZJ has proven itself amazingly capable off road in this form.

have you upgraded any of the front cv joints on your zj?
 

Xjaddiction

Observer
Cut out flares like Iceland Off-road sells, ~1"-2" budget boost for tuning height and rake, bunpstops as appropriate. Run the biggest metric tires that'll fit because they tend to be a touch narrower than floatation sizes (32" - 33"?). Call it done. Leave the geometry stock otherwise.

$0.02.

That's what I would do to run 33's. Icelandic flares are awesome. Run the metric 265x75x16's on some MOAB style rims wih a 1.5" spacer behind the wheels. I have a 2" lift now, and it rides very well. Tereflex BB, with hydrolic no name shocks. I'm going to run 4-5"es of lift and 35's with the Icelandic flares.
 

Doctor W

Adventurer
I'm looking to keep my jeep low, and trim for the tires and wheels. i'd like to run a 33x10.5 sized tire.

i use my vehicle for exploring, not rock crawling.

there must be a million lift kits out there. i don't know if i should just piece my kit together or run a complete kit.

my ideal ideas are to have a 3 link front and rear to get rid of the upper control arms. i'd like it to be long arm. i want it to drive down the highway straight and comfortable as well. i do not trailer my vehicle. i want to do it right the first time and not have to go back and change stuff later. it needs to bolt in because i do not have a welder right now. i can weld, but no equipment while i'm in college.

i'd like to use bilstien shocks. i have used the piggy back 5150 shocks before and i love them. for the money they are worth it.

am i looking for to much just to get 3" of lift with the wants i have?

i've been thinking about doing the front to rear spring swap, but it would probably ride really badly.

FLAME SUIT IS ON

so basically what i need:

Front and Rear style control arms (radius arms design)
track bars
springs front and rear
brake lines??
shocks

I had to quote your post so people would know who I was addressing.

I've done a F to R swap, with originally +2" springs so now about +4'' with 245/75x16 Load Range D (10 ply rating) run at 33 psi on road aggresive AT's, and I'm really happy.....but I carry heaps of stuff in rear in expedition/exploration mode, empty ride is a little hard but OK. Put in extra number of inches (can't recall now!) ARB OME shocks (couldn't get correct size Bilsteins) and they're great!........Did a very careful wheel alignment at an expert I've trusted for years. It's all done pretty cheaply but with good quality parts.

SIMPLE + CHEAP(but GOOD) = :)
 
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