Tube crawler style buggy and Rtt thoughts.

[Coby65]

meh, naysayers.

simplify. sell all the junk up there so you don't have to move it, get what you can get for it. Get yourself an Ibex 4 seater with an LS motor and overdrive trans. Order all the closure panels, do a flip-down windscreen and heated seats. Build it right, make it cool, make it servicable with parts from the local auto supply. Your wife will appreciate it, your time will appreciate it and so will your wallet in the long run.

I agree with this^^^^^ if your wife and family can grow with it

When we moved from GA to CA I was building a custom CJ3b, D44 front and rear custom FF rear with discs, 35's, 4.3 fuel injection,Sm465 Dana 18 with. Warn OD.
DW an I wanted to explore more of the west so I sold the pieces at a loss and bought a 05 rubicon unlimited that someone had already done all the work on. Long arms, armor, bumpers. And I can drive it on the hwy at 75/80mph in comfort plus have been to Fordyce a couple of time. I am now at the point my next mod needs to be rock jock 60's. I can still wrench on this but DW can also drive it anywhere she wants also.
Sorry getting to the point make sure the wife is good with what ever route you go with when you are going to spend that kind of money on vehicle.

 

[MNtal]

meh, naysayers.

simplify. sell all the junk up there so you don't have to move it, get what you can get for it. Get yourself an Ibex 4 seater with an LS motor and overdrive trans. Order all the closure panels, do a flip-down windscreen and heated seats. Build it right, make it cool, make it servicable with parts from the local auto supply. Your wife will appreciate it, your time will appreciate it and so will your wallet in the long run.

2nd this...

OP skip the roof top tent keep the rest of your theory...

I'm building a 4 seat Ibex to do the same thing except I intend on driving mine down the Highway for those short weekend or day trips. For longer trips, or trips with my girl, I'm building a dedicated Hauler/Camper to run basecamp and sleep indoors and comfortable.

Here's my personal thoughts and 10cents...

Get yourself some Nitto Trail Grapplers in the 40" flavor, they are an awesome road, rock, snow, and decent mud tire.
Run aluminum bead locks, and build a mount to carry a spare.
Skip the ARB in the front, run a locker and Yukon Hardcore Locking hubs, carry spares they don't take up much room.
ARB's or other selectable lockers are not a bad Idea for the rear as it will keep you from chewing up tires while you are on the pavement.

OD transmissions will cost more but you will enjoy having that extra gear when cruising around, personally I've had good luck with 700R4's.
AA Atlas are nice, go with a 3 speed if its in the budget, make sure you get the heavy duty Front and Rear outputs, and skip the pain in the ***** cable shifters.
Over axle under motor, in other words build way more axle than you think you can need, I would rather be stuck than broke.
Skid plates front to rear are key, also building light with good design is important.
Spare front and rear Driveshaft's are key, check them often, keep up on maintenance, and carry necessary spare parts.

Anything to enclose the cab will make road Driving, or inclimate weather much more tolerable, especially for the Lady.
You can never have enough dedicated storage, but you can have way to much crap that you don't need using up all the space.
Heated Seats, radio for tunes, cup holders, ARB Fridge, Rear view Mirrors, enough said.
If your rig looks like an old Jeep, Toyota, or well kept up and not a POS you will catch a lot more slack from law enforcement.

Post up a build if you get started on something.

 

[Metcalf]

How much money do you want to spend

Speaking from some experience after doing some multi-thousand mile trips in an open top vehicle AND wheeling the crap out of it.

-Your going to want a windshield, a glass one, with wipers, and defrost.
-Having an open top isn't THAT much fun after two days in the rain on the interstate at 70mph. Plan on having a top that is durable or can come off AND be stored easily.
-Your going to want a real steering box. You can get by with full hydro steering, but it is more fatiguing to drive
-Plan on trying to have some extra space. It gets eaten up QUICK with large spare tires, fuel tanks, people, gear, etc.
-Power/Gearing. You need a decent amount of power to push 40" tires down the highway. Gear the car so it can run at modern interstate speeds.

This is what I would build....



This is a 'buggy' I designed that has CJ7 skins 'hung' on the frame. It would allow the body to be easily replaced if it was to get damaged. I retained enough of the body to allow the factory windshield to be used along with any factory or aftermarket CJ7/YJ top. Quicky specs....

-LS based engine. There is enough room for a full truck trim engine with the deep pan and tall intake.
-Lots of transmission room,a 6L80 or 4l80 automatic will fit.
-Lots of transfer case room. An np205, atlas, or other aftermarket case will fit in drivers or passengers drop when clocked correctly. Most manuals will fit also.
-Full width axles work best with high backspacing wheels to keep overall width down to the 80-82" range.
-3-link front with a panhard and a real steering box ( with assist for the big tires )
-4 link rear
-12" travel coilovers front and rear, 6" uptravel from static ride height.
-109" wheelbase
-The chassis/body/suspension was designed around 42" tires with a 30+ degree steering angle.

 

[Metcalf]

Give up on this idea?

 

[98dango]

No it got pushed back due to some family illness and me having to move. I still want to build this very much and am collecting all i can.

 

[Metcalf]

Now's the best time to hash out ideas. You won't be pressed into doing something one way or the other for time...

 

[98dango]

My new address has also tossed a wrench in this as Washington is a lot more strict on license laws.
I must have a wiper more lights are required and body panels 75% tire coverage is also there.

 

[Metcalf]

My new address has also tossed a wrench in this as Washington is a lot more strict on license laws.
I must have a wiper more lights are required and body panels 75% tire coverage is also there.

I think you can work around most of that. I would just do something like a Lotus7/Caterham front fender. The fender bolts right to the steering knuckle and is only like 1" off the tires. Then the fender just moves with the tire. Make the mount a quick disconnect so you can take them off.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-vehicles/131-0903-4x4-rock-buggy-build-wiring-windshield/

 

[98dango]

I know it can be done and the more I look into this I don't think it can be bone with a off the shelf buggy.

We all well some of us I guess remember this

And I know you have first hand experience Metcalf with the 10 pounds of s##t in a 5 pound sack.

 

[Metcalf]

11 pounds...maybe even 12!

 

[98dango]

I may end up with a scout grill of sorts as I have titles and Vin numbers plus I'm a scout guy from back in the day. But I was told that if it vaguely resembles a rig it's much easier in Wa they just call it a kit jeep scout bronco what ever

 

[Metcalf]

I may end up with a scout grill of sorts as I have titles and Vin numbers plus I'm a scout guy from back in the day. But I was told that if it vaguely resembles a rig it's much easier in Wa they just call it a kit jeep scout bronco what ever

Some inspiration for you.....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1260154-scout-800-woods-runner-build.html

A very cool buggy in a body build using a scout body....and part of the frame too....

 

[98dango]

I have been following that build as a member of pirate4x4.com since 2001. I am a big fan of crawlers but I feel travel like the UA is the point of my life. I have tried many rigs that where close but just never quite did the job 100%

 

[Metcalf]

I have been following that build as a member of pirate4x4.com since 2001. I am a big fan of crawlers but I feel travel like the UA is the point of my life. I have tried many rigs that where close but just never quite did the job 100%

Nothing will do all jobs at 100%, vehicle design is full of compromise....cost, complexity, size, etc.

I really enjoyed doing the UA trip in my flat fender. Any vehicle would be fun on that trip as long as it stays together and running.

I too am looking at building something a little more well rounded. For me, that has to include a way to have a windshield, wipers, defrost, top and doors. An open top vehicle really limits the climate you can use a vehicle. It might be fun to roar down the interstate in the rain or snow once...but it gets old. The balance with having those things is that the vehicle gets more sensitive to trail damage. I'm really trying to design something that is 'modular' in that respect where I can replace parts the get damaged without pulling my hair out. A guy can make just about anything once, but making it over and over might get a little more annoying.

Size is the big variable for most people. More and more people want to take kids, coolers, and camping gear in addition to all the normal stuff you should have with you anyways. Carrying that much stuff WHILE maintaining a very high level of off road performance is difficult. It's a very careful balance of overall size vs weight. A vehicle can only be so big before it starts to effect performance off road. Personally I think about a 110" wheelbase with a 40-42" tires at 80-82" wide overall is about right. The compromise is that the 'body' needs to be kept a bit smaller than most people will be happy with....

It's all a compromise...

 

[98dango]

It's a compromise for sure my 1984 4runner was to tall and underpowered. Other wise it was real close the closes I have found. I also liked the parts every kid in a trailer park has toyota parts.