A/C unit running on solar???

Kiomon

Adventurer
How big of a battery pack are you going to run? You need a large pack to at least crank the unit. Trying to run the AC directly from Solar is a huge task unless you have a massive array. You need enough overhead so that the minor fluctuations aren't going to brown out the AC. What vehicle are you working with?

If you are flat roof mounting the panels and they are in great sunlight, e.g. south west, USA, then you could probably do it on 1200 watts. But then you are limited to daylight usage only and probably only the core 5 hours of the day.

How much battery capacity do you have?
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
Agreed, you would need probably a minimum of 1200W of solar, and about 800Ah of battery bank to be able to use it reliably for any decent length of time (say 8 hours out of every 24-hour period). That would give enough juice to power the A/C unit while still being able to recharge your batteries and run other loads (lights, water pump, 12V fridge, etc.).
Most here will tell you running an air conditioner off batteries/solar isn't practical (and unless you have a very large roof for putting all those panels (and can set them up to be tiltable toward the sun), they would be correct in that assessment).

Also, a good Energy-Star rated 5000 BTU A/C unit shouldn't pull more than about 450 watts.
The one you linked does not appear to be Energy-Star. ES units I think currently require a minimum 10.7 EER if I recall correct (most are 11 or better).
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
It's the Holy Grail of the solar world. Basically, all you need is way too much solar, and way too much battery. Also, having way too much insulation helps too.

Or, just buy a small generator.
 

EXPO365

Adventurer
Agreed, you would need probably a minimum of 1200W of solar, and about 800Ah of battery bank to be able to use it reliably for any decent length of time (say 8 hours out of every 24-hour period). That would give enough juice to power the A/C unit while still being able to recharge your batteries and run other loads (lights, water pump, 12V fridge, etc.).
Most here will tell you running an air conditioner off batteries/solar isn't practical (and unless you have a very large roof for putting all those panels (and can set them up to be tiltable toward the sun), they would be correct in that assessment).

Also, a good Energy-Star rated 5000 BTU A/C unit shouldn't pull more than about 450 watts.
The one you linked does not appear to be Energy-Star. ES units I think currently require a minimum 10.7 EER if I recall correct (most are 11 or better).

Yea I may be chasing a white whale. I'm currently shopping around to start a solar build for my rig. Just trying to see if I can do it or if I should just get a generator, I just don't like the noise and continued investment (fuel).

I guess I just need to get the prices together and see if I can do it on my budget.
 

workerdrone

Part time fulltimer
The inverters that can work with a generator are neat - something I could see in our future.

We have a Honda eu3000i to run the AC and microwave, as our rig came. It's a little much to move around for one person.

But the eu1000i and eu2000i sized generators are a lot nicer to carry around and stow away, they just don't quite have the oomph to start your standard RV AC.

A 2000i with a little help from the booster inverter might be just the ticket.


The fuel that any of these units burn is a pittance compared to the cost of a big solar array, controller, fat copper wiring, proper deep cycling batteries, and serious inverter
 

adam88

Explorer
Our 6800BTU split system uses less power than that unit yet has more than twice the output.

Really??? Nice. I'd love to see an AC that puts out 6800 BTU on 420 watts. Please provide some details :) Thanks kindly. That would be super efficient. As mentioned though, it is A LOT more complex... so there are some downsides. DC airco does make some very efficient units now.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Really??? Nice. I'd love to see an AC that puts out 6800 BTU on 420 watts. Please provide some details :) Thanks kindly.

His truck has a 230v Mitsubishi mini-split home unit. Current Mitsu 9k btu mini-splits have a 26 SEER rating - so yea, super efficient.

My only worry with a home unit mini-split on a truck, would be how well it holds up to vibration.

But still...420w / 12v = 35a x 10 hours would require a 700ah lead-acid battery bank to run it 10 hours and remain above 50% depth of discharge. And to replace the 350ah used (plus say an extra 10ah to make the math easy), with solar, with say a 6 hour window of good sun would require 360ah / 6 hours = 60a per hour x 12v = 720w of solar.

So even with the most efficient a/c unit - you still need way too much solar and way too much battery. But it can be done.
 
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AMBOT

Adventurer
I'm researching a secondary AC system for AMBOT to supplement the 24,000 BTU Hoseline unit model 1131. I've considered retrofitting the existing system to run off 115V, but according to Hoseline its pretty much replacement of everything and the replacement is another giant AC system meant really only to run off shore power. Trying to do something custom is still trying to support a system with a BTU not designed for any off-grid provisions. So I'm going to leave the existing system alone and use in emergency or while the vehicle is running for both heating and cooling.

I've considered a window unit but one of my goals is to keep the compartments usable as much as possible for storage. I've also looked at all the 3000-5000 btu systems out there and are all interesting, but what they all lack is the inverter compressors that are found in the mini split systems. Having a variable range 3,070 ~ 12,120 BTU allows you to not only adjust for cooling based on current temperature but also on available energy. If you are off grid at night with only your batteries, put the thing on quiet mode and a sleep timer and let it go for a few hours and turn off.

This is the unit i'm looking at http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/M09CJ.html

At 680 watts, 6 amps, or about 60 DC amps, which my batteries will do 3 hours till 50% if the compressor was always on. That would get me thru the night just fine.

During the day, a honda EU2000i or Yamaha will provide the AC power if needed. The variable speed inverter compressor paired with a variable speed inverter generator will allow both units to increase or decrease supply and demand automatically.

My solar is good for 480W max so I could not run the unit directly off solar. A generator is a must. I plan to have the dual setup for 30A. One would run to supplement the AC and the other only as needed for multiple high current needs or battery recharge.

The dual alternators can provide up to 270 amps.

The condenser will be mounted above the rear bumper along with the spare tire. They will be mounted to hinges to allow access to the rear entry as needed. It will also serve to extend the condenser 90* so there is free air flow and the unit is positioned out of the way. The air handler is going above the rear doors, attached to the roof extension.

Well that's how it all is today, I need to make a decision and get on with it. My concerns are how well it will hold up to being mounted on a truck, so I'm going with a quality brand and we shall see how it goes. I just can't find a more efficient unit that will easily cool the box when AC or generator is going, yet still maintain some temperature control when needed on battery alone.

Soon I think AC on solar and battery will be feasible with new technologies like the Tesla Powerwall provided you have a means to recharge it daily.

Minisplit Outside.jpgMinisplit inside.jpg
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Soon I think AC on solar and battery will be feasible with new technologies like the Tesla Powerwall provided you have a means to recharge it daily.

I don't think that Tesla battery is going to make any big difference. The larger 10 kwh unit is only 800ah at 12v, and according to the Tesla page, it's designed for *weekly* cycling. The smaller 7 kwh (600ah@12v) unit says *daily* cycling.

The real advantage I see there is the weight. - 220 lbs. for the larger Tesla battery. A bank of 8 Trojan T-105s rigged for 12v would provide 900ah, but would also weight 500 lbs.

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105/

The real disadvantage is that the Tesla battery is setup for 350v-450v - so it's gonna take some additional hardware to charge that off of...well, anything really.
 

AMBOT

Adventurer
Perhaps also the reuse of the patents will lead some other manufacturers to adopt some principals of the technology to more mobile applications. I could picture a single cube containing all the necessary components, charger, battery, inverter, etc. with load shedding capabilities and an espresso maker!

BTW DWH THANKS for all the input on various threads, they greatly helped me in planning and executing my electrical setup.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Is The tesla battery is good for all of that 600ah? 220 lbs got me 370ah total.

I doubt it. Lithium batteries have shorter life spans based on depth of discharge, though they can go deeper for more cycles than lead-acid. Still waiting for more detailed specs on the Teslas.

I based my rough numbers on 10,000w / 12v = 833.3a. That was just to get a rough guesstimate to compare to the 12v batteries commonly used in RV/small marine applications.
 

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