Rover axle interchangeablity question.

lbwhotrod

New member
Hello,

Question: Are 24 spline and 10 spline axle shafts the same length?

Situation: 1991 200TDI D90. Rear differential is on last leg and requires rebuilding. Landy is my daily driver and can not go down for more than a weekend. I have a 24 spline / 4bolt stock ratio differential that is in good condition. Backlash is good and everything looks and feel tight. Future plan will be to build the differentials with lower gears, pegging, ARB front, and ATB rear locker. However, that plan can not go into affect just yet.

Thank you for your help.

********UPDATE****​

For future reference:

If you are trying to identify your existing shafts the measurements (mm):


Axle - Short/Long

Front Shafts - 455/835
Thick Flange Rear Shafts - 700/967
Thin Flange Rear Shafts - 684/950
Early Salisbury - 660/978
Late Salisbury - 638/959
Series Shafts - 640/870

(information sourced from Ashcroft Transmissions, more on their site)
 
Last edited:

OH+D

New member
You likely have the earlier "thick" drive flanges which require a slightly longer length shaft. There is a pair of these (HD version) for sale on the various LR classified boards at the moment for a good rate.
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
In the meantime if you need to keep the diff going, slap some redline heavy shockproof in it, should help. Stuffs good.
 

lbwhotrod

New member
I wish redline would help this one. The diff pin has warn the housing down. If I remove the drive shaft, I have about 45 degrees of play in the pinion. It is a time bomb.
 

lbwhotrod

New member
You likely have the earlier "thick" drive flanges which require a slightly longer length shaft. There is a pair of these (HD version) for sale on the various LR classified boards at the moment for a good rate.

Perfect thank you. That was just the information I was looking for. I knew there was a difference between the drive flanges but not the shaft length.
 

JackW

Explorer
When I swapped my 10 spline RRC rear axles over to 24 spline Discovery axles I remember that I had to change the rear stub axles - not sure if I swapped the hubs as well but I don't think so. Its been about 18 years since I did that swap so the details are a little fuzzy.
 

lbwhotrod

New member
The good news is that my accountant (wife) supports replacing the axles with fully built ones once I get back from my year long business trip.


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getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I just swapped out my crappy rear 10 spline set up in my 1993 RRC with a diff and axles from a 24 spline Disco 1. Everything bolted in just fine. I welded the diff. it makes the tires squeal around turns, but oh-well, it won't break anymore. I guess I'll see how long the shafts hold up. I'll carry a spare set with me. Atleast the shafts only take a few minutes to swap out.
 

Red90

Adventurer
I just swapped out my crappy rear 10 spline set up in my 1993 RRC with a diff and axles from a 24 spline Disco 1. Everything bolted in just fine. I welded the diff. it makes the tires squeal around turns, but oh-well, it won't break anymore. I guess I'll see how long the shafts hold up. I'll carry a spare set with me. Atleast the shafts only take a few minutes to swap out.

Just an FYI that the late model 24 spline axles as used in Discos are not any stronger than 10 spline axles. They are wasted to 27.4 mm and use a weaker material. Ashcroft did a bunch of testing and found them to be around the same breaking strength.

The downside to your plan is that some of the time, when they break, they get stuck in the diff and it is not a quick swap.
 

Red90

Adventurer
Aftermarket shafts will be twice as strong, so there is a long way to go before needing to change axles.

rear_halfshaft.JPG
 

rlynch356

Defyota
red are you talking about when the axle snaps and the stub is left in the diff?
to get it out you need to pull the other side and slide in a strong magnet on a stick (not the small wimpy ones) and push the broken piece out from the other side - use a CB antenna, tv antenna, long rod etc needs to b stiff and not too thick.

Pull the 3rd is your other option - but that takes longer. but not really that long.

when you do the axles i would recommend a fully rebuilt diff (with locker if possible i found complete 3rds with a locker) and HD drive shafts and CV's - i use Ashcrofts front and rear. Or buy and carry a second set of axles if you don't go HD and just swap them out when they snap.
 

Red90

Adventurer
You can't push from the other side in a stock diff (which is what he is using, a stock diff that is welded). The cross pin blocks the path. I always carry the pull/push tools, but they are only useful for pushing with diffs that have an open center.
 

lbwhotrod

New member
Just an FYI that the late model 24 spline axles as used in Discos are not any stronger than 10 spline axles. They are wasted to 27.4 mm and use a weaker material. Ashcroft did a bunch of testing and found them to be around the same breaking strength.

The downside to your plan is that some of the time, when they break, they get stuck in the diff and it is not a quick swap.

Red,
That is one thing that has made me scratch my head. Why make the diff stronger and the axles weaker? To me it would make sense to have the Ujoint the weak link because it it a hell of a lot easier for us to replace (upgrade). Then again, there must have a reason.


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