Question about RR axles

[Viggen]

Very cool videos. So, the "Barnacle" is the custom, chopped RR or the camo one? I would like to run a locker in the rear only. So, if my wheeling plans are to have this RR deliver me down fire roads, muddy two track with roots and regular (Im not rock crawling here) sized rocks, basically typical east coast stuff, I should be okay with the stock axles then? Im looking at running somewhere around 4" of lift and 33x10.50 tires (if theyll fit without rubbing) on the truck. I just dont want to purchase a locker for an axle that will be breaking a lot. I used to snap D35 axles on my mildly built XJ all the time. I know that you can punish any axle when you use a lot of the accelerator pedal and Ive gotten much better at restraining myself but you never know...I might regress :sombrero:

 

[Gore Ranger]

One of the main reasons to swap to later ABS type stuff is to fit aftermarket axles, like from Rovertracks. This you can accomplish with the same housings that come with the truck using later hubs, spindles, 3rds, shafts and flanges, and the drive flange bolts are different too.

Many people would warn against 33" tires and stock LR axles. Sure they'll probably not break right away, and you can always carry spares, but that's kind of a PITA. You'll also need things like gearing, driveshafts, rear trailing arms, front radius arms. I'd going with 2" lift and 235/85R16 for the type of wheeling you describe.

 

[Viggen]

Thats what I am thinking. If I want to build something and throw a locker in it, I would rather not spend $700 on a locker for an axle that will probably break. If a D1 axle is a pretty much bolt on deal, then why not do it? Ive been looking around and found a set for about $400 ready for the RR set up to be swapped over. Im not going to wheel it hard enough to need to go crazy with Toyota stuff.

 

[JSBriggs]

The earlier 10 spline stuff with the mushroom cap axles (88 and older) seems to hold up just as well as the stock 24 spline stuff. Its the later 10 spline stuff (ABS era) that is iffy. That being said, I did the Rubicon in my '90 RRC with open stock 10 spline ABS axles on 34's and didn't break anything.

I would agree that if you are going to put a locker in then look at upgrading to aftermarket 24 splines or even a Toyota 3rd member swap. Although, you would be surprised what you can get through with open diff's.

-Jeff

 

[nickyill]

The chopped one is The Barnacle, the camo one is mine. I put Rovertracks HD rear axles in when I added lockers and they twisted like hell - put my stock ones back in and they have been fine. My problem hasn't been with axles (mine are 24 spline by the way), but twice, the lockers sheared off all my hub bolts on one side - so I have purchased uprated strength ones. With 33" tires, you'll definitely dog a bit on the highway, but gears aren't essential - just nice to have. Same with radius arms, trailing arms and aftermarket driveshafts. For the wheeling you are planning on doing, all that stuff would be fun, nice - but not necessary.

Early on in the post, someone suggested wheeling as-is and adding stuff when you find you can't get where you wanna go - I'd follow that. Amazing what they can do stock, maybe with a 2" lift for extra clearance and even 32" tires...

 

[Gore Ranger]

The chopped one is The Barnacle, the camo one is mine. I put Rovertracks HD rear axles in when I added lockers and they twisted like hell - put my stock ones back in and they have been fine. My problem hasn't been with axles (mine are 24 spline by the way), but twice, the lockers sheared off all my hub bolts on one side - so I have purchased uprated strength ones. With 33" tires, you'll definitely dog a bit on the highway, but gears aren't essential - just nice to have. Same with radius arms, trailing arms and aftermarket driveshafts. For the wheeling you are planning on doing, all that stuff would be fun, nice - but not necessary.

Early on in the post, someone suggested wheeling as-is and adding stuff when you find you can't get where you wanna go - I'd follow that. Amazing what they can do stock, maybe with a 2" lift for extra clearance and even 32" tires...

I would have to disagree on your point regarding all the ancillary modifications that he will need. Maybe they aren't "essential" if you aren't concerned about the handling or safety of your truck, but to do 33" tires and a 3-4" lift the right way, yes, you will need all the extras.

 

[Snagger]

If you go the Disco axle route though you need to swap your RR brakes back on the front. Disco has single circuit solid fronts, RR uses Dual Circuit Vented. Not a big issue, just swap your RR rotors and calipers back onto the disco axles.

HTH

Ian

Not quite right - Discoverys with 200Tdis (or from that era) had dual circuit front callipers with solid discs, while the 300Tdis and V8s from 1994 have dual circuit with vented discs. the braking system at the axle is the same as that year's RRC - it's the bits under the bonnet that vary, with the Discoverys not always having ABS, ETC or power boosted brakes (relying on a servo instead).

 

[Snagger]

Early on in the post, someone suggested wheeling as-is and adding stuff when you find you can't get where you wanna go - I'd follow that. Amazing what they can do stock, maybe with a 2" lift for extra clearance and even 32" tires...

The RRC managed the Camel Trophy without any mechanical alterations, suspension lift or locking diffs.

 

[Series1Rangie]

Very cool videos. So, the "Barnacle" is the custom, chopped RR or the camo one? I would like to run a locker in the rear only. So, if my wheeling plans are to have this RR deliver me down fire roads, muddy two track with roots and regular (Im not rock crawling here) sized rocks, basically typical east coast stuff, I should be okay with the stock axles then? Im looking at running somewhere around 4" of lift and 33x10.50 tires (if theyll fit without rubbing) on the truck. I just dont want to purchase a locker for an axle that will be breaking a lot. I used to snap D35 axles on my mildly built XJ all the time. I know that you can punish any axle when you use a lot of the accelerator pedal and Ive gotten much better at restraining myself but you never know...I might regress :sombrero:

Viggen,

You don't need 4" to fit those tires. 3" w/o trimming. 2" with just a trim at the front and rear of the arches. Really dude, for what you describe, sliders and a gas tank guard would give you more bang for your buck. when you get into 4" lifts, there is a LOT of stuff to start changing. you can get away with less at the 3" mark, but your best bet is to stay at around 2" for your needs. Especially if you want to drive to and from the sites.

Don't doubt your RRC what you describe could be done in a mostly stock truck, with better tires. you would be very surprised where a Classic will go. Check out your local club http://www.roav.org/ ROAV is a great group of people and will help by having a bunch of local trucks from stock to well not-so-stock. See if you can get in one with 2" and 32" tires. And don't forget to go to the Mid Atlantic Rally in the fall.

Mike and Myles

 

[Yorker]

The RRC managed the Camel Trophy without any mechanical alterations, suspension lift or locking diffs.

IIRC they went through a lot of diffs, and did a lot of winching too...

 

[Yorker]

Not quite right - Discoverys with 200Tdis (or from that era) had dual circuit front callipers with solid discs, while the 300Tdis and V8s from 1994 have dual circuit with vented discs. the braking system at the axle is the same as that year's RRC - it's the bits under the bonnet that vary, with the Discoverys not always having ABS, ETC or power boosted brakes (relying on a servo instead).

I don't think the D1s imported here necessarily followed that theme. IIRC they all had ABS and single circuit front calipers, vs the RRCs of the same vintage which had the dual circuit front calipers. I can't remember if they were vented or not, for some reason I thought US D1s didn't have vented rotors.

 

[Mike_rupp]

The RRC managed the Camel Trophy without any mechanical alterations, suspension lift or locking diffs.

Yes, and they were beat to Holy Hell when they were done. Without traction diffs, they had to rely on major momentum to get over obstacles and the trucks were beat to death as a result. With traction diffs, the driver can drive in a much more controlled fashion which is a plus for someone who is driving their own truck, not some person in an event who has no regard for how the truck holds up after the event.

 

[nickyill]

I would have to disagree on your point regarding all the ancillary modifications that he will need. Maybe they aren't "essential" if you aren't concerned about the handling or safety of your truck, but to do 33" tires and a 3-4" lift the right way, yes, you will need all the extras.

Depends on how you get your lift among other things - 2" suspension lift + 2" body lift for 4" inches would require nothing. A 3" lift on a RRC can go either way on a number of mods...through a trutrac in front and maybe avoid using altered radius arms, check expeditionexchange.com for notes on that...If you go 4"+ inches using springs and blocks or something, I'd agree with you on every point...

 

[ipgregory]

The OP is in the US and I would guess that any Disco Axles he would source would be from a local US D1 as well. AFAIK all 94-99 NAS D1s are V8s and have single circuit Solid Discs at the front. But you're right, if he gets them from overseas then he may find some different configurations to play with.

Thanks

Ian

Not quite right - Discoverys with 200Tdis (or from that era) had dual circuit front callipers with solid discs, while the 300Tdis and V8s from 1994 have dual circuit with vented discs. the braking system at the axle is the same as that year's RRC - it's the bits under the bonnet that vary, with the Discoverys not always having ABS, ETC or power boosted brakes (relying on a servo instead).

 

[Mike_rupp]

Depends on how you get your lift among other things - 2" suspension lift + 2" body lift for 4" inches would require nothing. A 3" lift on a RRC can go either way on a number of mods...through a trutrac in front and maybe avoid using altered radius arms, check expeditionexchange.com for notes on that...If you go 4"+ inches using springs and blocks or something, I'd agree with you on every point...

Unless you like vibrations and blowing up driveshafts, you will need to get radius arms for a 3" lift to correct the pinion angle as well as getting a dc driveshaft. There is a reason why OME's lift is around 2".