anyone have info on cutting fenders on an suv????

[sniderexciderr]

i have a 2001 ford expedition and i'm thinking about cutting the fenders for tire clearance i have found a little bit online about cutting fenders on bronc II's and a few other vehicles. and it doesn't seem too difficult. i was just wondering if anyone on here had any ideas to help me out? the main thing i'm worried about is i want it to look decent not like a back woods mud truck.

 

[WJinTRSC]

Jigsaw

I did it on my WJ. The important thing is to take your time. Draw out the lines that you want with a marker or sharpie. You can remove them w/ some light acetone later if you don't like them. Draw them out and find some lines you like and that flow into your original fender lines. Then use a jigsaw with some tape on the bottom of it so as to not scratch the surrounding paint. I know it sounds crazy to use a jigsaw, but it works really well. Take your time, but cut with confidence and don't be scared. You'll do fine. Coat the cut edge with some paint and then you can clean it up with door edge gaurds. You can find that in rolls at your local hardware or auto parts store. Have fun!

 

[sniderexciderr]

i was thinking about trying to add a lip kinda like what is on the factory fenders how it bends to the inside. or would that be more work then what its worth?

and how to seal it up to the inner fender if i want to go past where the two meet?

i read that one guy used heater hose to fill the gap then sealed it up with i guess a silicone how does that sound?

 

[TreeTopFlyer]

Have you looked at the glassworks fenders for the Excursion? You can stuff 37s under there with a 2-3" lift supposedly. JDHolder's old rig had 40s on it with a 5" lift.

i was thinking about trying to add a lip kinda like what is on the factory fenders how it bends to the inside. or would that be more work then what its worth?

and how to seal it up to the inner fender if i want to go past where the two meet?

i read that one guy used heater hose to fill the gap then sealed it up with i guess a silicone how does that sound?

 

[xcmountain80]

There was a popular fender company that made pocket fenders that required cutting IIRC. Bushwacker flairs I believe.

A

 

[Metcalf]

Did someone say cutting fenders?

My advise. Run glass front fenders if you can. It makes things MUCH easier and better looking. The problem is the rear fenders on thinks like blazers, broncos, 'burbs, etc. The double rear wall makes it much harder to modify the rear opening much.

IMOO, the low lift, big tire thing works REALLY well. You get most of the clearance where you need it....axle clearance, floation, mild approach and departure gains, some breakover gains....but you keep the suspension very close to stock for proper vehicle dynamics.

 

[sniderexciderr]

i'm not too worried about the fronts because i can get the fiberglass ones and that would be easy, its the back ones that scare me. and yes i'm trying to keep a low center of gravity. thats why i'm considering this.

 

[evilram]

just take your time. I've used all kinds of tools, but my favorite is the trusty ol' grinder with a cutoff wheel.

As for making the seem. If you can weld, why not throw in some thin sheet metal and reattach to the original inner fender. as far as making the "flare" piece, use a small tube and a light hit of the hammer. that way the metal will bend around it.

 

[sniderexciderr]

just take your time. I've used all kinds of tools, but my favorite is the trusty ol' grinder with a cutoff wheel.

As for making the seem. If you can weld, why not throw in some thin sheet metal and reattach to the original inner fender. as far as making the "flare" piece, use a small tube and a light hit of the hammer. that way the metal will bend around it.

thats pretty much how i was planning on doing the lip, or using some vice grips with some metal to make them wider where it grabs the fender then bending it under. i might just go with the cut then dress it up with some push on trim. and figure out a way to seal the gap to the inner fender to keep crud from getting in there where it dosent need to be.

 

[TomH]

When I lived in VT, vehicles had to pass a yearly safety inspection. I had a FWD VW Rabbit pickup truck that I had built out as a micro camper with an elevated bed in back and a flush mount shell with rear window removed for crawl through (this was possible due to cab/bed unibody construction). I had used extra heavy chains on the front tires and centrifugal force had thrown them outward enough to rip the edges of the fenders into shrapnel. Approximately every 2 inches there was a ragged tear in the sheet metal extending upwards about 2 inches.

The inspectors told me I would have to replace the fenders and return for re-inspection. I went very slowly with a hacksaw and cut a new edge just above the highest tear in each fender, filed, sanded, painted with touch-up paint, went for the re-inspection, and passed. You couldn't tell the job had been done unless you looked at it up close and very carefully with an idea of what you were looking for. The inspector had no clue there ever had been more fender there.

This was single wall construction so I did not have the issue of sealing a seam.

 

[sniderexciderr]

When I lived in VT, vehicles had to pass a yearly safety inspection. I had a FWD VW Rabbit pickup truck that I had built out as a micro camper with an elevated bed in back and a flush mount shell with rear window removed for crawl through (this was possible due to cab/bed unibody construction). I had used extra heavy chains on the front tires and centrifugal force had thrown them outward enough to rip the edges of the fenders into shrapnel. Approximately every 2 inches there was a ragged tear in the sheet metal extending upwards about 2 inches.

The inspectors told me I would have to replace the fenders and return for re-inspection. I went very slowly with a hacksaw and cut a new edge just above the highest tear in each fender, filed, sanded, painted with touch-up paint, went for the re-inspection, and passed. You couldn't tell the job had been done unless you looked at it up close and very carefully with an idea of what you were looking for. The inspector had no clue there ever had been more fender there.

This was single wall construction so I did not have the issue of sealing a seam.

the more i research fender cutting the more promising it sounds, and i'm starting to feel better and better about it.

 

[TreeTopFlyer]

How big of tires are you wanting to put under it? The rear fenders can take a good amount before needing surgery. The fronts can take around a 33 with just some v-codes. 35s I think with a 3inch lift. The glass fenders are only $400. But I like doing stuff on the cheap too :ylsmoke: Hence my slider and bumper project.

 

[sniderexciderr]

well i have a set of 37s on hand, and i was thinking about putting 33s on it for now but since the ultimate goal is 37s then i figured it would be cheaper in the long run to use them and get new ring and pinnion sets with the cash i wouldn't be spending on the 33s. i under stand i'll have rub when i turn and under flex but if i go with the 37s then i can just work on the suspension as i need to. more lift if i need etc...

 

[rusty_tlc]

I used contrasting color tape to get an idea of what mine would look like

Then with an angle grinder equipped with a cutting wheel I slowly scored the metal several times along the cut line. Eventually the scrap just fell away. A little work with a file and some sand paper rounded the edges over.

 

[sniderexciderr]

well i have a set of 37s on hand, and i was thinking about putting 33s on it for now but since the ultimate goal is 37s then i figured it would be cheaper in the long run to use them and get new ring and pinnion sets with the cash i wouldn't be spending on the 33s. i under stand i'll have rub when i turn and under flex but if i go with the 37s then i can just work on the suspension as i need to. more lift if i need etc...

with that being said has anyone experimented with a tire that size on a expedition or f150 with 2"-3" of lift before?