New ham setup

trump

Adventurist
You should have home runs for both the + and the - straight to the battery, fuses at both ends, both wires.

The radio is setup that way... Unless you are suggesting going straight to the battery for the GPS as well. IMO overkill for a device that gets 12v power through ~24 gauge wire.
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
Yep, and ideally these leads should be dressed with a twist for noise abatement as well.

xtatik good tip! Since any wire will become an antenna. On that note do you do anything else on your power leads?

Here some options to control EMI (ElectroMagnetic Interference)
You can shield from EMI with grounded metal conduit, not to practical but if you had issues with a long run you could use this.

1lcLw-G774POgV_9IFPy7FF3IojVNBKl7qLiYByXcmzrl9sZaH33mOt0pSsKjiC6TPfu8FuSHrf_tfhr5d72MWR080Cs83smJol-34CSSy5DVcp0BECyrcp7Y-izG_h4bOLVQ04QhCaCpFNBejcGjrV8BuCgMbsXm0UNauLzEw



You can do cancellation. i.e the twisting of the wires.

wire_belden18gauge_500px.jpg



You can use filters (capacitors and inductors ) to drain off the RF, I mean EMI
cf2.gif


nf40.gif


Or suppression with ferrite chokes.
choke.jpg
 

trump

Adventurist
This is all great info guys; however, this is not a radio interference issue. It's simply lack of chassis ground to the GPS.
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
This is all great info guys; however, this is not a radio interference issue. It's simply lack of chassis ground to the GPS.

What? A reality check lol

For grounding I use star washers as they will provide the bite you need to get good metal to metal connections, as that is what they were designed to do. You can remove the paint, but try not to remove the base coating as that provides rust protection. The star washer will penetrate the surface. You can use some anti oxidant grease to help with moisture and dissimilar metals.

I would double check all your stock grounding connections as its possible they could be missing /damaged or need some cleaning. No better time to check then now too. You need to make sure you have grounding from the battery to the chassis, to the engine and to the frame Some larger vehicles will have a ground wires run to the back of the vehicle so the tail lights gnd don't need run the entire length of the frame to get back to the battery. You need to look and check each of these ground connections to insure they are not compromised. Finding them all is no easy feat on some vehicles either. If they don't have a star washer add one. :sombrero:
 

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trump

Adventurist
Just a little update... I'll be trying sometime tomorrow to get these things talking again. Been a bit too busy with family visiting and work lately. Hopefully I'll be putting the connector together and calling this setup done.

Here are the long awaited pictures of the new antenna location:

CIMG1540.jpg


Tacomav30.jpg


The mic hung thanks to the extension:

CIMG1550.jpg


...And sound through the external speaker:

CIMG1279.jpg
 

4RunAmok

Explorer
Great job, Mark!

Placement looks good, not all the way out, so you have some extra sheet metal strength back there.

Is your NMO right above the light or speaker? If so, smart thinking to keep an eye out for things like leaks, or if it needs tightened (which it shouldn't if you used loc-tite)...
 

1911

Expedition Leader
I like the auxiliary speaker in the headliner, make a sanitary installation. That's one good thing about modern Toyota headliners - there is 2" or so of space between the headliner and the roof of the cab.
 

trump

Adventurist
Great job, Mark!

Placement looks good, not all the way out, so you have some extra sheet metal strength back there.

Is your NMO right above the light or speaker? If so, smart thinking to keep an eye out for things like leaks, or if it needs tightened (which it shouldn't if you used loc-tite)...

Thanks!

The NMO is actually behind both the light and speaker. It's just close enough behind the light that if I remove the light and gently pull down on the head liner I can inspect it. I did make it a priority to follow your lead and re-install the mount using loc-tite (cheap insurance.)

It should also be noted that just a day after putting in the first time with petroleum jelly on the o-rings that they had already shown signs of softening and breaking down. They left a couple black ring stains on the truck that I had to clean off. I pulled the o-rings out cleaned them and re-installed using a silicone lube.
 

trump

Adventurist
I like the auxiliary speaker in the headliner, make a sanitary installation. That's one good thing about modern Toyota headliners - there is 2" or so of space between the headliner and the roof of the cab.

Thanks, I've got a little run-down of that speaker here:

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1965269&postcount=15

I'm working on organizing my hosted pictures better and will be moving most of my content into a build thread here soon.
 

4RunAmok

Explorer
So I just got off the phone with Trump...

In his write-up about his speaker installation, I noticed he has all the positive/negative wires for the inputs all coming together at the speaker.

This is sure to cause some problems as speaker output from the radio, gps, etc, is UNI-directional, it may also be causing the interference he's getting with the GPS.

All of this can be solved with a simple mixer, which makes sure there is no power from one unit traveling into another via the speaker wires.

The one I've used in the past is from Azden...
image.php

http://www.azdencorp.com/new/product.php?productid=93302&cat=3&page=1

Azden's retail listing is a bit high, but you can find it much cheaper on ebay, here:
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_trkpar...&_sticky=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=15&_sc=1

OR... If you're an electronics buff, I think a diode of some kind will prevent the voltage from traveling back up-stream.
 

xtatik

Explorer
So I just got off the phone with Trump...

In his write-up about his speaker installation, I noticed he has all the positive/negative wires for the inputs all coming together at the speaker.

This is sure to cause some problems as speaker output from the radio, gps, etc, is UNI-directional, it may also be causing the interference he's getting with the GPS.

All of this can be solved with a simple mixer, which makes sure there is no power from one unit traveling into another via the speaker wires.

The one I've used in the past is from Azden...
image.php

http://www.azdencorp.com/new/product.php?productid=93302&cat=3&page=1

Azden's retail listing is a bit high, but you can find it much cheaper on ebay, here:
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_trkpar...&_sticky=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=15&_sc=1

OR... If you're an electronics buff, I think a diode of some kind will prevent the voltage from traveling back up-stream.

Without having to read through all this....Is he simultaneously pushing independent signals from all of these devices into one itty-bitty speaker motor? If so, he's got more than just interference to worry about. All devices could be at risk for damage to their audio output sections as well as the speaker.
 

xtatik

Explorer
That's what we're covering... not worried about the speaker.

But, the Azden unit appears to be an input audio mixer. Seems it would work well if you want to use three microphones into a radio or other device, but it doesn't appear to be an output (post-amp) device.
What does each device want for output impedance? What is the speaker impedance? What are the individual and combined output voltages?
 

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