Recent content by GlennA

Sorry for the delayed response. I would use ferrite beads at both ends of the power cable. Hope this helps.

New to us, 2003 SR5, 124k miles PM

If your ground is good and your + is connected directly to the battery, it may be time for an RFI filter. I've had good luck using ferrite beads. Does the noise also come through the "infotainment " system? If you don't have solid state ignition, you might try changing the condenser. If...

We ended up ordering a computer and some software and repairing ours ourselves. It took about 7 months from failure to repaired. We've since sold ours. FYI, there is a place in Gulf Breeze.....Gulf Breeze Automotive if memory serves me well that works on them.

I live as bout half way between Mobile and Pensacola. I've been unable to find anyone interested in working on a Sprinter other than the Mercedes dealership in Pensacola. Most places we contacted didn't want to deal with deisel and th ed deisel shops didn't want to deal with a Mercedes. Good...

My mechanic says " bring it by the shop and we'll weld in some fish plates and get you on your way."

If I were you, I'd look for a speaker that I could mount in either the "A" pillar trim or perhaps in the overhead console. Locating the speaker so it can be aimed at the user allows for lower volume settings. I know that wasn't the plan. Just my thoughts.

Talk about a thread resurrected from the dead........

Carry a spare relay. My experience has been that using a high current (30a) relay to switch low current (<1a) load results in intermittent connections inside of the relay.

Sorry, I was unclear on my post. I understand your goal but see no advantage to switching with the high beam over switching with master switch. It seems to me that switching with the high beam adds a few potential failure points. However, it is your vehicle, your call. I wish you only success.

I don't see a feedback loop issue. However, I don't understand your goal.

You seem to be on the right path. Tie the two battery positives together and the two negatives together. That keeps them at 12V and adds up to 400ah you're aiming for. Tie the + to a buss bar and the - to a separate buss bar. Connect the solar controller "charge " wire + to your + bussbar...

Rent a "deck-over" trailer. The kind you see heavy equipment hauled on. Use some 4X4's for spacers and you can load it with a fork lift.

Check out this thread. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/video-review-of-10-american-made-campers-priced-under-10-000-2020-2021-review.235188/

I posted a link in "Power Systems " to a potentially available commercial solar panel stacking system. Some good ideas and discussion.