Recent content by Marine359

FULL ELECTRIC POWER INVENTORY People have asked how much power I use in my full electric setup. I designed my system to provide off-grid overlanding limited only by food and water, (sometimes I purify water from lakes/streams), with no combustibles. The attached pdf (also posted jpg) is an...

I installed a Frigidaire 5,000btu window A/C unit with high EER from Home Depot, $170. It draws less than 400w during 20 min rig cool down, then averages less than 250w. Runs on my Ecoflow Delta 2 Max. Less draw than my solar produces.

Shakedown overlanding to Baja for 18 days with recently built out Tune M1 on F150. Truck and Tune did great. Some of my build suffered, and I desperately need to replace my cheapo fridges with an off-road capable fridge like Iceco, and a ViAir 400p. Full-electric, including heat and A/C...

Things I like about Boxio: good height with the riser option inexpensive compact Things I don’t like: stopper for urine funnel easily lost; drilled a hole and attached paracord clips come off and are useless waste bags will compost; sometimes before you want them to urine container is very...

CIGS panels with double sided 3M tape cannot be removed. BougeRv also sells a model of CIGS with grommets instead of sticky back. You could fashion a mounting system that secures grommeted panels to your roof that is removable. I don’t know how well 3M VHB tape adheres to metal. You’ll have...

You can buy corrugated plastic at HD and Lowes. We can chat on FB Tune group. Haven't built the mount yet, cuz I’m building out my truck. But I can share the design concept with you. I’ve done part of it, but don’t want to use all of my 2020 until I get the M1 installed.

You have a nice powerstation. It will accept a lot of solar input, so you have many options. First thing to consider is budget. Glass monocrystalline panels are the cheapest option, but their weight can make them undesirable for overlanding. They’re plain too heavy (35# or more) for pop-ups...

If your Yeti provides as much ac output as you may need, there is no reason to change your powerstation. Simply hook up a LiFePo4 similar to my diagram and you’ll have both all the ac and all the dc you need. My LiFePo4 is self-heating and Bluetooth. And my powerstation is, of course...

This is how my system is wired. It’s not automatic. You have to physically switch a wire, which is quite easy. In my case, my Ecoflow has 2x 15a 11-60v Solar inputs. 10A dc output. My LFP is charged by a ac to dc charger. Powerstation charged by 400w solar and a dc/dc charger to one of its...

I’ve learned that one of the beauties about having a powerstation and LFP setup is that they can charge each other. This allows you to connect all your solar to the powerstation and dump watts into the LFP when the powerstation is full and the sun is still up Without the need to run the engine...

IMHO, yeti 4000 is a ton of money for a need that can be met for 1/2 the price. Pick a powerstation that will give you enough ac output (like 2,400w), then decide if the total capacity is sufficient to meet both your ac and dc needs. If it is enough, and you’re gonna go with just the...

Oops. Sorry.

I don’t have a power boost Model. I have a plain vanilla F150 2.7L turbo. tThere is no power to the bed.

Owww, my head hurts.😱

I’m a big-time advocate of Dave’s recommendation to install a dc fuse block. Not doing so invites complexity, confusion and possibly danger. JMO, but I’m also a strong advocate of installing bus bars. Bus bars reduce complexity, and gives the entire rig a common path to ground. Additionally...