Recent content by rruff

It's surface area, not volume.

Any suspension work? Skids? Tires appear to be 35s, or close.

Before you get too fancy with a suboptimal situation... think about ditching both the truck bed and cap, and making a composite box that mounts to your frame that a) will be long enough to lay down in, b) tall enough to sit up straight on a seat, c) be well insulated, and d) lighter than what...

It would probably make more sense to attach them to your subframe. Mine are ~22" off the ground which is several inches higher than the gas tank and rear tire.

After a recent massive share dilution. Their business model of selling generic Chinese products for a premium was bound to fail eventually. Take the money and run. Meanwhile I'm sure the generic Chinese batteries I bought without paying a premium are just fine... :unsure:

What is the camper you are speaking of, and what are the conditions? Whatever you get, I'd recommend investigating how well it works on low settings, and if it can be easily modded. The 5-8KW Chinese diesel heaters can be turned down to ~2KW and still run efficiently, but no lower. And I've...

I can tell you that mine with no heat sources inside (like people) and a window cracked, uses about 13 W/degree F. That is the temperature difference between inside and outside. 500 W (x 3.4 = 1700 BTU/hr) would maintain ~38 F temperature difference for instance. I measured this with an electric...

Lexus and international models are made in Japan, or at least they used to be. Or maybe it was just too few to be recall worthy.

I wonder if those overseas engines are identical... or if maybe the tolerances are different...?

If that truck has fully boxed frame rails, you really just need to reinforce the bottom of your camper. I'd honestly just bridge across your current bed mounts with some rectangular hollow beams and call it good. Simple and cheap. If you want to incorporate poly bed mounts for some give, that...

I didn't see a photo of how your struts are arranged... did I miss it?

I have a full rear hatch style door on my camper. I wanted the struts to fully open it (weighs ~70 lbs) and also pull it closed when it gets close to that point... and not be 500 lb like the calculator suggested! It takes a bit of geometric figuring, but I achieved what I wanted with 150 lb...

Like all of them... well, all are tall, but some are shorter than others. I guess I should be glad my generation of Tundra is short in front of the axle.

I think a lot of this is just the push for more and more power and mpg simultaneously. The engines get overly sophisticated, and they push the envelope for reasonable tolerances. I'd be happy with a simple engine making 250 hp. Shouldn't be too tough to make that reliable and get decent MPG...

There are many such reasons to suspect the debris theory. Newer engines are suffering the same fate, though it's hard to get a good estimate of the numbers. Refining the old 5.7L (or maybe just leaving it alone?) and adding the 10 spd and new frame, would have been a far better move...