Recent content by Suns_PSD

Asking is $27.5K for the brand new one with mods and $32K for the used one from RoA. I've already decided that I'm prioritizing the new one. However I did turn down a solid cash offer for my Forest River today (only listed it yesterday) for a few personal reasons. It might be a wee bit...

It looks like my current RV goes away this week and I'll be able to get in to a used Dweller very soon. There are 3 good options for me. Here is my question for the experienced 'Dwellers'. Exact same modifications and same price, would you take option A.) that is new and unused and stored...

Can you guys tell me more about the stock Dweller AC system? Is it totally inadequate. I don't care about summer day time temps. I care about being able to sleep at the beach at night. Can the AC keep up with that?

Is this still the best cover choice for a Dweller 15? Thanks.

Daddy money. That said, at mid $20K's you can't beat a left over D15. RV warranty isn't worth much anyways and components all have their own warranties separate from the chassis anyways. Really, if you don't want a project RV, buy an Oliver with few features for $110K.

If I lived close to an ROA dealer, it would be worth the premium to me. As it is, it's a lot of premium to not be able to use their services based on my geography. ROA seems to be a class organization for sure.

I'd be curious which plant manufacturers MDC. Just because when I dig around MDC's, I see Compaks, but they claim otherwise. I really know what the look for now and next time I see an MDC I will look for a few things. If anyone knows, please PM me.

Does a different factory make the MDCs?

I have diagrams and they are working on the contract now that spells everything out that is included. Compaks is a major RV provider for the entire planet. It would be similar to ordering a new custom RV from any US manufacturer from a risk perspective. If you are interested in nitty gritty...

Deleted by OP.

Ultimately, it's not power that is the limiting factor in factory tow ratings but instead a combination of axle ratings, brake ratings, stability concerns, heat rejection capability (the gears really help with this), liability, idiot factor, etc. The Jeep sounds awesome, but in reality, it's...

Somewhere in the manuals or online is the listed GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) for that vehicle. It's probably around 6500#s or so. Then he just weighs his modified Jeep loaded and fueled up, and whatever is left is his allowable tongue weight. Beyond that he'll also have a listed GCWR...

I have a very similar low payload capacity on my F150. My truck is a Limited model (lots of content) plus it's got some heavy tires as well as a topper. When I actually weighed my F150 with a full tank and me in it, and I only have 690#s of payload. That's before my family, dogs, gear, a WDH &...

The way that McHitch attaches, it ends up several inches higher. Just looking at it. Also, a stock F250 is the same height as my leveled F150, plus he has the snowplow kit (2") plus gains another 1" in radius going from 33" to 35" tires. I really prefer the hitch that is used on the Opus...

I think if you got your trailer with the front .5-1" lower than the rear it would calm a lot of your sway. My understanding (warning: internet expert here, little real-world experience!) is that when you have a single rear axle and the trailer is sort of 'balancing' on that one axle, and then...