Help me not burn my truck down

bonuscup

New member
Hi all, would appreciate a review of my wiring diagram for safety and correctness. This is my first attempt at building out a solar setup. It's going in my Overlnd camper on a 3g Tacoma. Designed for self-sufficient remote camping for 2-4 days at a time.

System includes:

2x Epoch 105ah Essential series LifePO4 batteries
3x 100W BougeRV flex panels
Victron 100 | 50 MPPT
Victron Phoenix 12 | 500 inverter
Various 12v loads included in the diagram

Many thanks.
 

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carterd

Active member
Class T fuses are generally recommended for lithium ion batteries. MRBF is probably acceptable for smaller 12V banks like yours, but they still have disadvantges to Class T. Epoch may have specific recommendations for their batteries.

You should have equal cable lengths for each battery's positive and negative connections to the busbars.

This will be a nice setup.
 

slomatt

Adventurer
Looks like a fun project. Based on the BlueSea 12v current chart it looks like your 2/0 and 6 awg wires are protected by reasonable sized fuses that are located near the power source or where wire size is reduced.

A couple of suggestions:

- I'd recommend adding add another switch between the solar charge controller and the positive bus bar. That would allow you to shut off +12v from solar when you are working on the panels, and you could shut off all power by turning off that switch and the switch for the batteries. Also, since the charge controller is a current source you might want to put a fuse close to the controller to protect the wire going to the terminal block. Blue Sea likely has recommendations for how to fuse this device.

- The 2/0 wire for the chassis ground is probably overkill and you could save some money and weight by going with a smaller gauge wire. With the current design the only power using the chassis as a return path would be through the 60A feed to the fuse block.

- What is the max draw of the inverter, is a 60A fuse large enough?

- The fuse size chart in the upper right includes ~5 different fuse sizes. Generally the idea is the run wire that is large enough to handle the current draw of the load and then to size the fuse to protect the wire. To simply things you might want to select 2 wire sizes (one large, one small) and 2 sizes of associated fuses. That way you could buy them in bulk, and you would reduce the number of spare fuses you need to carry. For example, 14 or 12 AWG wire protected by 10 or 15A fuses for most of the circuits, and something larger for the dual USB plug (can it really draw 25A?).
 

bonuscup

New member
In a parallel battery setup, using cables of equal length for each battery helps ensure that the current is distributed equally among the batteries. This minimizes imbalances during charging and discharging, optimizing performance and lifespan. Here is a link to some Victron guidance on this topic. https://share.google/Xu96puiUVQwqMwcYW
Really helpful, thanks for sharing this. Is this in reference to the wire length for connection between batteries only? Or also the wire length from the positive terminal to the switch and negative wire to bus?
 

bonuscup

New member
Class T fuses are generally recommended for lithium ion batteries. MRBF is probably acceptable for smaller 12V banks like yours, but they still have disadvantges to Class T. Epoch may have specific recommendations for their batteries.

You should have equal cable lengths for each battery's positive and negative connections to the busbars.

This will be a nice setup.
I have a 120A Blue Sea class-t fuse that I was considering using after the two terminal MRBF fuses before the switch, which is ABYC code. In my case I'm not sure it's needed, but all for extra insurance. Not sure though to your point if needed with this smaller bank size. If I eventually add more power, I would consider it then.
 

bonuscup

New member
- I'd recommend adding add another switch between the solar charge controller and the positive bus bar. That would allow you to shut off +12v from solar when you are working on the panels, and you could shut off all power by turning off that switch and the switch for the batteries. Also, since the charge controller is a current source you might want to put a fuse close to the controller to protect the wire going to the terminal block. Blue Sea likely has recommendations for how to fuse this device.
I had originally planned to do this but someone else said it wasn't necessary for only 300w of solar. I'm going to add a 60A breaker.

- The 2/0 wire for the chassis ground is probably overkill and you could save some money and weight by going with a smaller gauge wire. With the current design the only power using the chassis as a return path would be through the 60A feed to the fuse block.
That's what I figured too. I already have a 10ft run of 2/0 so I'll probably just use it anyways.

- What is the max draw of the inverter, is a 60A fuse large enough?
900w and 92% efficiency, so actually it should probably be 100A fuse? With an inverter should I be fusing for continuous power or max?

900w/12v = 75a, then factor for 92% efficiency = 69a, then add 1.25x = 86, so 100a fuse is appropriate for 6 awg wire? It's about a 2ft run.

- The fuse size chart in the upper right includes ~5 different fuse sizes. Generally the idea is the run wire that is large enough to handle the current draw of the load and then to size the fuse to protect the wire. To simply things you might want to select 2 wire sizes (one large, one small) and 2 sizes of associated fuses. That way you could buy them in bulk, and you would reduce the number of spare fuses you need to carry. For example, 14 or 12 AWG wire protected by 10 or 15A fuses for most of the circuits, and something larger for the dual USB plug (can it really draw 25A?).
Great call. I am using 10/2 and 16/2 duplex for everything. I need to double check the draw on that socket, but I think it was 30A, which seems high.
 
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bonuscup

New member
Btw,
The output of your plug-in battery charger should be fused connected also.
Commonly that's done with a separate fuseholder directly at the battery, or you could connect on that multicircuit fuseholder.
Just be aware, if connected at that fuseholder, turning off the big red switch will disconnect battery charging too.
Further,
To maintain optimum balance when charging, Negative of the battery charger should be connected to neg. on the other battery or the 'grounded side' of the battery monitor device.
This is such a great catch, I should have thought of this. Thank you.
 

bonuscup

New member
Btw,
The output of your plug-in battery charger should be fused connected also.
Commonly that's done with a separate fuseholder directly at the battery, or you could connect on that multicircuit fuseholder.
Just be aware, if connected at that fuseholder, turning off the big red switch will disconnect battery charging too.
Further,
To maintain optimum balance when charging, Negative of the battery charger should be connected to neg. on the other battery or the 'grounded side' of the battery monitor device.
Do you have a link to an example of what type of fuse is used for this? Because the busbar will have MRBF fuses integrated and terminal fuses on each battery, I'm not sure where to put one unless it was inline on the positive cable of the charger somewhere close to the battery.
 

slomatt

Adventurer
While it wont hurt anything to fit a fuse there. How to decide its ampacity ?
Plus its fairly redundant.
The 12" 6AWG (assuming quality copper...) shown is protected on the battery side by 60A fuse. 6AWG will easily handle the 25-ish amp max current the 300W solar array is capable of. If by magic the array could increase its output, The charge controller output is current limited also.

As shown, the battery cables are equal between them, connection to the bussbar & main fuses is irrelevant.
Is there an electrical reason for that suggestion ?

Because the charge controller is a voltage source (like a battery) some people like to put a fuse on both ends of the positive output to protect the wire. The fuse on the battery end protects from shorting the battery +12v to ground, and the fuse on the charge controller end protects from shorting the controller +12v to ground. Both could be sized based on the current capacity of the wire.

That said, I checked the instructions from Victron and they only show a fuse (55-70A) on the battery side of the wire, so the controller hopefully is internally protected against shorts. Interestingly the diagram also includes a fuse on the positive wire coming from the solar array.
 

slomatt

Adventurer
900w and 92% efficiency, so actually it should probably be 100A fuse? With an inverter should I be fusing for continuous power or max?

900w/12v = 75a, then factor for 92% efficiency = 69a, then add 1.25x = 86, so 100a fuse is appropriate for 6 awg wire? It's about a 2ft run.

I would defer to the installation docs for that inverter which state...

"The inverter is fitted with an internal DC fuse. If the battery cable length is more than 1.5m, an additional fuse or DC circuit breaker must be added to the battery cable, located close to the battery."

Also, it looks like the inverter only fits a max of 8awg wire, so the 6awg you have in the diagram might not fit in the positive terminal.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I have a 120A Blue Sea class-t fuse that I was considering using after the two terminal MRBF fuses before the switch, which is ABYC code. In my case I'm not sure it's needed, but all for extra insurance. Not sure though to your point if needed with this smaller bank size. If I eventually add more power, I would consider it then.
There's nothing wrong with overkill but just know that fuse type selection is subject to some engineering discretion.

The underlying suggestion for using a class T fuse is based on the very low internal resistance of lithium chemistry which leads to a characteristic that they can source a great deal of current under short circuit conditions.

But it is not infinite or absolutely instantaneous, so don't get off into the weeds throwing big dollar industrial fuses at a problem if it's not justified.

The question is then of course what is justified and how do you know?

To find the theoretical short circuit current you start by finding by specification or test the internal resistance of your cell. I'll take the ones I used as an example, LEV60F prismatic. The specification for them is 0.75 mΩ. These cells prefer a little lower voltages than other LiFePO4 due to their originally intended applications. So they are considered fully charged at 3.5 V.

That means, in theory, these cells under short circuit will produce 3.5 V / 0.75 mΩ = 4,667 A if you short them the moment they come off the charger.

So we can already see that a 20,000 A class T isn't strictly needed even if I assume all worse case everywhere else in the circuit. MRBF is safe here and even that might not be needed.

You have cables, you have terminals, crimped connectors. Just the jumpers that connect four cells into a 12V battery increase the resistance. An 8" length of 6 AWG is about 0.25 mΩ so 3 of them plus the 4 cells is 3.75 mΩ, thus in my example the most current that can ever flow is 14 / 0.00375 = 3,733 amps and that's before I even assume normal construction imperfections. Add in the little bit at each lug/stud, the necking at the crimps. It's easy to see that maybe 5 to 10 mΩ is the real internal assembled battery resistance so can't be more than ~2,500 amps under ideal worst case.

Further, most research indicates that LiFePO4 is capable of about 20C to 30C under worst case short circuit. Which would imply my 74 A-hr cells will short circuit around 1,480 A to 2,220 A in the drop a spanner on the terminals test so you find the absolute sourcing limits of the plates and electrolyte. Even this is probably optimistic.

Screenshot 2025-07-31 at 19.23.58.png

That plot taken from "Temperature, Overcharge and Short-Circuit Studies of Batteries used in Electric Vehicles" by Lebkowski. He found more like 9C to 10C. This is a data point, no telling if test rig configuration was current limiting, so this could be low. But still points to there being a limit.

Going to the next step, if your battery has an internal BMS you're looking at what fuse to use on the outside of a finished battery. The BMS will try to limit current. Mine at level 3, the short circuit parameters, is set to open at 440 A at 400 μs. Now whether it actually can limit a true short circuit is debatable but there's no question it will try. Even if it's not able to actually limit or break the circuit the effective resistance (with now burnt up FETs for example) has gone up and time of the fault has slowed down, which factors in to how fast your fuses have to react and the current they will have to break.

All I'm suggesting is we can get ourselves worked up over a problem that may not really exist. Some interwebz posts are talking lithium as it relates to a many hundred A-hr/48 V household installations feeding grid-tie inverters and dealing with raw cells in a DIY situation with parallel bus bars or 4/0 cables. In that case you do have to be very careful. Same with a 24V bank or if you have 200 or 300 A-hr, start to take more care. There's no minimal here, maximum there that's hard fast. Not a singular definition of "large bank" that dictates when one solution or another is required. Utility storage is definitely large. Your cell phone power bank is definitely not. Everything in-between is a matter of degrees.

So looking at your batteries, which aren't truly cell-level internal fuses so IMO are a grey area whether battery or wiring fuse.


The impedance spec is given at <30 mΩ tested. So let's just say that's what it is. That's suggesting short circuit 12.8 V / 0.030 Ω = 426 amps. That isn't the real cell internal resistance, but the resistive and reactive (capacitance and inductance) combination of the cells, wiring and BMS. So the specs aren't helpful there.

It elsewhere says short circuit protection is 600 A at 500 μs. That's the BMS cutting off.

So you can't really know from spec just what you need for interrupt unfortunately. It's unlikely there's a class T fuse inside. I wouldn't be surprised if there's no fuse inside, just the BMS. Maybe a fusible link or self reset breaker.

Thus the really unanswerable question is what to do. It's unlikely you really need a class T or probably even MRBF to be safe. A fast blow ANL (minimally 2.7kA) or even a MEGA or MEGA 60V (the 60V version are 5kA interrupt) probably function acceptably. I just don't want everyone thinking you need to start tearing everything up and use the largest, most expensive fuses on every 12 V/100 A-hr house battery.

You're not being unsafe since you probably will realistically see less than 2kA to 3kA range of short circuit and that's only assuming things went badly sideways and your BMS doesn't work. Which you do have to at least consider as a failure mode. It's evolving understanding coupled with new and shiny tidbits of information that might be out of context.

And by the same token just because you hang 10kA interrupting fuses on a battery you're not absolutely safe either. An internal short or over charge might still cause your battery to overheat or any number of things could happen. So just having class T or MRBF doesn't excuse you from good practices on an enclosure, watching parameters, securing and sizing wiring and having an egress and fire extinguishing plan. When you decide to use lithium you can't be totally hands off.
 
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donmontalvo

Member
Class T fuses are generally recommended for lithium ion batteries. MRBF is probably acceptable for smaller 12V banks like yours, but they still have disadvantges to Class T. Epoch may have specific recommendations for their batteries.

You should have equal cable lengths for each battery's positive and negative connections to the busbars.

This will be a nice setup.
I have an MRBF on the positive post of each battery, they're set up in parallel. I have the two batteries connected together rather than connecting each to the busbars...this way I can have a 150A Class T fuse between the 2 battery bank and the busbar...the trick was to get the Class T within 7" of the 2 battery bank. Don't ask how hard it was to create a 7" 1/0 AWG cable. :)

I installed a Victron Phoenix 12|1200 inverter, into a separate well ventilated compartment.

You'll notice I have a 30 AMP fuse on each side of the two MPPTs, as well as an overrated circuit breaker...the fuses are for safety...the circuit breakers are so I can power down/up the MPPTs in proper order (I hate pulling fuses when troubleshooting or upgrading).

I let the boating folks twist my arm on this one, I truly believe in going overboard on safety, to minimize risk.

Here is my schematic, HTH:IMG_5059.jpeg20250520-Camper-schematic-1200.png
 
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