1989 Raider - 2 doors + 3 pedals (full modifications write-up)

irish44j

Well-known member
TL:DR I have an extremely-detailed full built thread on this rig, in case people want to read about me actually doing the work, going on trips, and various other things – but I thought maybe I'd condense that down into more of a general overview post for people who don't want to read 6 years of my blabbering and sort through a thousand photos of random small things. (if you want that, here's the link: https://www.overlandbound.com/forum...raider-2010-sequoia-and-other-projects.47708/) Instead, this will just show what's been done, so anyone with a small rig like this (or others) can maybe get some ideas for their own builds – much as I've done by reading many other peoples' threads and photo posts. If you want more details on any specific thing you see here, feel free to post up here and ask about them (or you can go read the ultra-long build thread if you want to.) So here goes.


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Just as brief background, I've never been much of a “truck” guy or a “camping/overlanding” guy. I've built a number of older sportscars/sporty cars – mostly from the 80s (Porsche 924S, several BMW e21/e30s, and some other stuff). I did have an XJ Cherokee back in about 2006 that I bought, fixed up, and then decided I hated driving it, hated the Renix engine management, and hated all the rust. I didn't really do anything with it, just refreshed/improved it and sold it. So building something expressly for off-road exploring, camping/overlanding was mostly a learning experience. Anyhow, got it in my head that I wanted an 80s rig, and love the boxy stuff. But I also do my builds on a tight budget, so it had to be cheap. Like <$1000 cheap, and with minimal rust. Otherwise, didn't care much about the running condition. So that ruled out most old Toyotas ($$$), or any of the Euro SUVs. I looked at Isuzu Trooper s for a while, but the resources parts availability seemed pretty slim. Then I cam across the Gen1 Montero, a poor-man's Land Rover to some degree. Nice ones were going up in value a bit, but still pretty cheap – but the Dodge Raider is the same truck – entirely, and it seems they were cheaper and easier to find in the country areas for cheap because....80s Dodge, right?

Anyhow, I picked this Raider up in North Carolina (Emerald Isle) for under $1k. No rust, and in ok condition cosmetically and interior. But the engine was out of the truck, sitting in the back, and all rusty from getting saltwater on it during a hurricane. Got it anyhow, knowing that the 6G72 engines can be found in a lot of Chrysler minivans in the junkyard. As it turns out, never had to do that since I found a second one (also in NC, Asheville this time) for just a few hundred bucks. It was rusty AF, interior garbage, bodywork junk, rear door ripped off – but it RAN (badly) and had a manual transmission – pretty rare for these. So I put these two together and made one. I'll note this was during COVID, so I had a lot of spare time to do things....


So this is my 1989 Dodge Raider, SWB (short wheelbase) 2-door. The 1989 was the only year that the Raider/Monty had a coil spring rear suspension in the 2-door (leaf spring for all earlier years) and also the only year they came with a V6 (all others were 4-cylinder in the US or diesel overseas, I think). Both the suspension and engine were in the 4-door Monteros though, so still a lot of parts available. This one also is the “offroad package” - which basically means it has a rear axle limited slip diff (LSD), headlight sprayers, and a “trucker seat base” that has its own suspension. 2 door Raider + Offroad Package + coil spring rear + V6 + Manual transmission all together makes this a fairly rare truck at this point, with so many having rusted away. Here are a few general photos of it.

Let's jump right into things. First, the engine bay, yep it's dirty


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It's mostly a stock 6G72. I rebuilt it entirely with stock parts and a few minor aftermarket upgrades (injectors, PCV delete, upgraded plug wires, other uninteresting things). I refurbished the stock brass/copper radiator rather than buy aftermarket aluminum- these old brass radiators are really good for cooling IMO. Also did R132 conversion for the A/C system, which blows cold but occasionally needs a recharge. I have a big SPAL electric fan on the AC condenser that I can run manually when on the trail, for improved cooling combined with the stock crank-driven fan. But overall, it's a stock 6G72 engine that runs pretty well (other than an occasionally-sticking injector that I need to replace).


Drivetrain – as noted before, it has a 5-speed manual, which shifts like a truck from the 80s (looong throws, long shifter), and is occasionally a pain in the ass on certain tricky off-road obstacles, but I do love having three pedals.


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Axles/Wheels – Rear has the factory LSD, and it's pretty tight and works well on the trails, and the front is stock, though I replaced the stock auto-lock hubs with Aisin manual hubs. I'll note that the V6 models of these have larger front and rear diffs than the 4-cylinder ones, so they're pretty beefy for a small truck like this. The hubs also have 1.5” Spidertrax spacers (IIRC), which I added a couple years ago to get a wider stance since these rigs are kinda tippy with weight up top and the short wheelbase.

It's on the factory “Pomegranite” 15s, painted bronze, with 31x10.5 Grabber A/Ts.

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Chassis – it's largely unmodified. This truck was entirely rust-free and I did totally wire-wheel any minor surface rust and repainted it all with chassis paint back in 2019, which is holding up well now. If you haven't owned a Montero, they have THICK boxed frames. I measured and the frame steel on the Raider is about 50% thicker than the steel on my 2010 Sequoia, which weighs twice as much.... Anyhow, I've added a couple big skidplates that I built myself out of steel, covering the front end and under the transmission/transfer case. It has the factory gas tank skid, though I've beefed that up a bit after a rock dented the gas tank right through the skid. I plan to build a legit one this winter.

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Yeah, they get some work...

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Suspension – Upgraded with Old Man Emu torsion bars and rear springs, which provide a very mild lift (adjustable for the front, of course) and better cargo capacity vs. the stock stuff. Ride quality is good, with standard Bilstein 4600 / Yellow shocks. Stock sway bars with upgraded endlinks/bushings. I think the V6 Raider has bigger bars than other 2-door Montero/Raiders, btw.

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IDK, suspension pics are dull, so here it is in action lol

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Brakes – Stock rear drums (adjusted well, they work great). In front, I upgraded to the Gen2 Montero (mid-90s) dual-piston calipers and rotors to improve braking feel/power and reduce fade on long mountain roads. Very happy with them (stock braking system otherwise).

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Steering – Recently installed the full Gen2 Montero stuff – steering box, pittman arm, and idler arm. Much tighter than my worn-out original box, and a bit overboosted due to using the Gen1 pump still (Gen 2 box uses a lower pressure pump), which is actually great offroad on rocky trails, since it damps out more of the steering wheel shock.


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irish44j

Well-known member
Exterior:

Home-built roof-rack (steel with 6 gutter mounts), which I've modified quite a bit over the years to reduce wind noise, improve accessories/storage, etc. Right now it has a pair of Pelican Vault cases for chairs and camping gear and one “Pure Outdoors” box across the front, which it the exact size as my traction boards that are inside of it. The rack has a double fairing that I've changed a LOT in order to get rid of wind/whistling noises.

Here's the bare rack

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And with the boxes on

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On the driver's side I have a 6.5-ft Ironman awning, and on the back there's a 55” (?) Ironman awning, which replaced the 48” ARB that used to be there (and is now on my Sequoia). These rigs have side-opening doors, so the rear hatch can't protect you from the rain. I use the rear awning often.


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I also have the Ironman “room” for the big awning, which I sometimes use for camping (though it's pretty bulky to carry inside the truck). The Ironman awnings are basically the same as the ARB in almost ever way, with slightly different dimensions and similar quality. Highly recommended (Ironman or ARB), just whatever has a better price at any given time/vendor.


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On the other side, I have an OVS shower curtain, which gets a lot of use for quick showers as well as nice privacy for using the poop-bucket lol. These are surprisingly cheap, work great, and can be unpacked/packed in like 1 minute. Since the Raider has sliding rear windows I can put my clothes and towel and stuff inside while I shower and just reach through the window to get them when I'm done, which is convenient.

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I have a standard snorkel, which are really cheap for these since 1000 Pajeros in South America all have them lol. It goes into the factory cone-filter sealed chamber, sealed up good with foam and sealant goop, so I'm good for water crossings up to about 36” in a pinch. I also waterproofed a bunch of stuff in the engine bay for that reason as well (distributor cap, etc.) and added diff breather extensions.

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I even towed a buddy's Celica across a swollen stream last year lol (it was turned off)

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Note that for the internal air ducting you have to move the steering fluid reservoir. I moved it to the front corner


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I also have some home-made branch risers that run from the roof rack to small metal eyes at the front of the hood, which are useful on some of these snug east-coast trails...

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On to the back, my favorite part because I built all of this myself with my “average” welding and fabrication skills. I'll start at the bottom – the Raider has these lousy rubber bumper end caps that look stupid, crack easily, dent easily, and are generally junk. So as part of my swing-out build, I built my own out of metal plate, which are both tough and also part of the supporting structure for the swing-out pivots (they are not removable, but the main original bumper is removable still).


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The swing outs are on both sides. I did this to reduce swing distance in tight areas (and also I initially just had one). The pivots are mounted to some beefy steel square tubing welded to the factory frame, which is much stronger than they need to be, but whatever. The swing-outs themselves tilt back slightly to hug the rear of the truck better and balance the tire weight. Both of these were built over time with tons of measuring, modifying, etc. I love steel because I can just zap on accessories whenever I want with the welder. The bumper also has a couple of bright reversing lights and a pair of amber dust lights as well. Both Nilight brand off Amazon (note: make sure to add some extra sealant to cheap lights so they don't leak).


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irish44j

Well-known member
The right-side swing out carries my spare tire (originally mounted on the door itself). It's a 31 x 10.5 in case you care. On the backside I built the structure to hold two 2-gallon Rotopaxes (one gas, one water in this pic). Above them is a 4-gallon water tank I got off Amazon which can be pressurized for showers, washing stuff off, etc. I carry a 15-foot lightweight hose that can be used to rinse the radiator (mud) or whatever. This tank was pretty cheap but it's held up great and works just fine. Actually it holds pressure better than my much-more-expensive Yakima Road Shower on the Sequoia.

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I also carry a knockoff Trasheroo on the spare for trash (and to carry firewood on the way in).

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The left-side swing out has another “Pure Outdoors” box that I got specifically to mount there and still have view of the license plate. It carries all my recovery gear – snatch strap, shackles (hard/soft) tree saver, snatch block, etc. Easy access, and outside the vehicle since it's always muddy.....

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The box now also has some rubber mounts for carrying things like snow shovels (winter) or fishing rods or whatever.

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Right next to it on the outside is a mount for a small (but heavy-duty) shovel


Up top, there's a mount for a 5lb propane tank. I prefer it outside the cabin, and this was a good place for it. I got this nifty baggy for it, which also holds the hoses and a few other things so I don't have to store them elsewhere.

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The left side swing-out also has a 1 1/4” hitch receiver built into it, which I use for two things: a bike rack, and a large “camp kitchen” table built out of a heavily-modified UTV cargo basket. Because of the side-opening rear door, this allows me to swing these things out of the way rather than take them entirely off the main hitch,

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I'll note that with all this crap back there, the rearview from the stock mirror is basically nil, so I replaced it with a Wolfbox video mirror, which works great and has a very good clarity. The camera for it is inside the top of the rear door glass to keep it clean, and the rear wiper sweeps over it so I can clear it.

On the backside of the left swing out, there's a fold-down table made of an old road sign, which is handy. The little box in the void above it is my tire patch/repair kit in a weatherproof Husky box from home depot.

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The table is about 30” long, so with this setup I have to open/close the swing-outs in a specific order since they overlap. I also did this in case I forget to latch one (or it comes loose), so that the other one would hold it from flying open on the road.

The swing-outs have De-sta-co latches like most people use, which work well. They also both have pin-locks in multiple positions (closed, 95 degrees out, and as far as they'll swing before hitting the truck body). This is key for windy days or sloped parking so your swing-outs don't open/close themselves! Also note the 7-pin trailer connector there.

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On the sides, a few things (including my DIY two-tone side and roof paint and pinstriping, which is “Sand” colored brush/roll-on Rustoleum with a bit of black added to dull it a bit). The mirrors are aftermarket Land Rover Defender mirrors, which I like a lot better than the OEM Mitsubishi garbage or the giant “trucker” style mirrors some guys get. I did use some 3D-printed wedges to level them though, since the Raider doors have some slope.

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The wheel arches have some 1.5” lips added to reduce mud flinging with the spaced-out wheels. It's just some UHMV urethane that I cut out, shaped, and bolted on – nothing fancy.

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Up front, the stock bumper is still there (it's pretty heavy-duty), but hidden underneath it is a full tow-hitch assembly from a junkyard Chevy Suburban welded and bolted to the frame horns, flipped backward so I have a front hitch receiver. It also is where my winch plate mounts to (welded also). So it looks stock-ish, but is as strong as most aftermarket bumpers, I'd guess.

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The winch is a Superwinch 9000, which I like quite a bit though haven't used much to date. I prefer this design vs. a lot of the newer winches – the controller off to the side gives better airflow through the grill IMO. Using synthetic rope, in case you care.

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irish44j

Well-known member
Lighting. Up front mounted right under the winch are a couple yellow Auxbeam fog lights (which are “ok” in terms of lighting and pattern) and a Diode Dynamics combo bar, which I bought for my competition stage rally car and has serious distance and optics for going 80mph through the forest at night. So it's massive overkill for a 4x4 going 25mph through the forest at night lol.

The headlights are e-code (Euro) with H4 bulds (IIRC), a big upgrade over the stock sealed-beams for street driving when I can't use the big LED bar.


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Up on the roof rack are four Auxbeam floods, which have a nice spread though mediocre distance, IMO. A bar is better, but for an old truck I feel like round lights up on the rack are the way to go. I use them very occasionally, so didn't want to spend too much on something higher-end up there.

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On the sides and back of the roof I have some dual-action RV-style lights, mounted directly to the roof (wiring drilled through). These are nice, they have a very bright white setting and also a dimmer amber “camp” setting.

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Added a high-mount brake light above the back door, since the OEM taillights/brake lights aren't terribly bright, and also not as clear to see with all the crap on the back of this thing. Being rear-ended by another car sucks.....

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The hood is bedliner'd, which cuts down on sun glare on bright days (and hides all the dents in the hood).

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Antennas – I have a standard CB firestik on the back door (which I usually remove since I don't ever use my CB any more) and a Midland whip up on the roof for GMRS (and to hit every overhanging tree branch on the local trails).
 

irish44j

Well-known member
Alright, let's go inside. This is where you have to be REALLY creative in order to do long-ish trips in a small rig like this, and where I've reconfigured and modified over and over as I “learn lessons” on every trip.

One of my few “cosmetic” interior mods are my door and rear panels, which I rebuilt with new fiberboard, waterproofed, and wrapped in some nice VW Westphalia upholstery to match the brown interior. I'm not a but upholstery guy, but I think they came out pretty good.

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The stock seats in these things suck, so I replaced with with some OEM Subaru WRX Sti seats. They don't look very racy like most WRX seats because they're from the limted-edition TR model, so they have separate headrests, but still great lateral/lubar support. They were gray but I spray-dyed them beige to match things. This was a big project since they are not flat-base, so I had to do a lot of welding and fabbing to make them mount on the factory “trucker base” and “tilt base” for the seats.

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The steering wheel is an OMP “Sand” - basically a competition-style wheel but in a larger size for trucks. It's 380mm so a bit smaller than stock, but not too small. I really, really like this wheel. Mounted with an extension hub. I'll note that I drilled out the steering column safety bolts and put spacers in so the wheel is lower/more vertical than stock (great for knee-driving lol).

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Up top, I added a parcel shelf above the windshield. I actually made this out of some composite baseboard (like you'd use in your house) and a few L-brackets. It's handy for sunglasses and other small stuff, and also holds my switch panel for lighting, fans, etc. and my GMRS (Midland). I have a Gear Keeper extender which makes the mic really convenient, trucker-style.

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The dash is mostly stock, but with several RAM mount balls added for phone, tablet, etc., speaker for my GMRS, and other stuff.

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Old touch-screen Kenwood stereo with some Rockford Fosgate speakers in the stock locations. And an old amp and Bazooka Tube that I had from college in the 90s, tucked behind the driver's seat. Yeah, the acoustics of this truck suck, so music sounds not much better than a good 1980s stereo lol.

Little armrest I built between the seats, mounted on a steel post that's adjustable-height

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I'll note that I removed all the interior plastic panels. They look crappy, provide zero sound insulation, and make wiring more of a hassle. Underneath them the paint was gray (not black) so I wrapped the interior in matte black vinyl and then ran all my accessory wiring up high near the roofline inside mesh wrap. Easy to get to, easy to add new wires to, and looks kinda military...

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So 4Runner guys can just go buy 50 different interior storage solutions off the shelf (for $$$). Well, you can't do that in a 1980s Mitsubishi, so you have to get creative. Almost everything I built in here is from materials I had sitting around – angle iron, wood, UHMV sheet, old house shelves, etc. And all of it is made to fit certain things in certain places (and modified many times over the years).

Needless to say, the rear bench seat is long gone.

On the driver's side, I have a multi-shelf setup. The rear one (old speed limit sign as a door) holds my spare fluids, straps, and other gear I need easy access to. A double holder for 1lb propane cans (or drinks) is on the outside. Up above you can see my rear switch panel, which controls external camping lights and interior lights for easy access when parked with the rear hatch open. I also have USB/charging ports down below the door.

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Forward of that another “cabinet” up top with two shelves that hold lights/flashlights, camping stuff, tiedowns, and other small gear, that can also be accessed via the sliding rear window from the outside. And below that a larger shelf that carries my electric chainsaw, Jackery 500 power bank, and Viair pump.

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I don't like gear hitting me in the head if I get in an accident, so put up a panel behind the driver's seat that prevents that and is a Molle panel (ordered to size, I didn't build the panel) so I can mount stuff to it.

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On the passenger side is a platform (made of angle iron/welded) that has an opening top to access my spare parts boxes (front end) and my tool rolls (over the fender under the window).

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And also under that is my fridge. This is one of the smallest Iceco models, the APL20. I had to get it small to fit where it needed to go. It's fine for several days for 1-2 people, but it has to be packed smartly to fit the stuff you need. Luckily, I'm a basic eater, so don't have to carry steaks and stuff lol. It's on a slide-out, obviously.
 

irish44j

Well-known member
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Above that in the rear corner is another molle panel off Amazon that I modified heavily (I think it's from a Jeep of some sort). It holds my plugs/wiring, toiletries, first aid kid, and other stuff I need easy access to when camping.

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The inside of the rear door has a gear net up top (since I don't need rear mirror view) that holds various lightweight and/or thin things. Underneath that is a fold-down table that was fun to make but I never really use since it interferes with the fridge sliding out.

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So I sometimes tent camp, sometimes use the Ironman/ARB awning room, but more often I sleep inside the rig, especially if the weather is bad. Now, that platform there looks pretty short, huh? Yep, it's 48” long, and I'm 6 ft. tall so I have two options:

If I'm traveling with someone else (or just want my passenger seat in the truck), it takes 1 minute to take out 4 mount bolts on the top of the seat base and flip the seat itself around backward. Then I have a wood platform that goes on top of it to extend the sleeping platform to just over 6 feet long. I haven't used this way for a while since I'm usually alone in my rig traveling with other buddies in theirs.

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More often, I take the seat out entirely, and I built a box/platform that bolts right into the seat mounts. This extends the sleeping platform to almost 7 feet, tons of space. At the bottom of the box is storage for my grille (Camp Chef Everest, which is awesome, if you were wondering – though pretty large). And the top opens so I can store all of my kitchen, cooking, and coffee stuff inside (in three Kelty kitchen bags) and a container for dry foods.

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what else..........

Oh, and I built this trailer to go with it. It's a fully bespoke frame that I put together, with a 3500lb axle and some trailer shocks (leaf springs). It has a Mitsubishi Mighty Max pickup bed on it, painted to match, and uses the same Pomegranite wheels and 31x10.5s as the Raider does (so I can rotate x7). Eventually I'd like to build it into more of a camping/adventure trailer, but the Raider isn't all that powerful and I don't really want to tow offroad at the moment, so mostly I just use it to haul stuff locally....

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So yeah, I think that's about it. Nothing very bling, nothing too fancy, but hopefully it will give some of you DIY types some ideas about setting things up on a budget and making it work. Feel free to hit me with any questions, etc. And check out the massive build thread if you want every detail of every one of these modifications (painfully detailed): https://www.overlandbound.com/forum...raider-2010-sequoia-and-other-projects.47708/
 
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