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Did it capture the page numbering system or chapter headers?

Yes it is sketchy....desperation is a powerful motivator but I would hate to almost get the motor pulled but have to stop because of one stripped bolt, then have to come back the next day and find someone else plucked it from me.

Michael Brown: yep, that’s the idea. My FSM is two static PDF’s, cut about at the halfway point. They are just scanned images of hard copies. None of the content is searchable as it is just an image. I have a PDF editor and I could add the page reference and page title as dynamic text to each...

I’m thinking about editing the FSM to make keyword searching for at least page numbers and chapter titles possible. Anyone else see value in this?

PM’d

Does anybody out west have a donor vehicle with good rockers but otherwise dead, who would be willing to properly cut them off and ship to Michigan? Mine are toast....I finally need to deal with this problem. I’ll make it worth your effort if anyone is interested. Thanks!

this is an excellent idea btw....

In my experience, seized would mean a bearing on the crank failed, either a rod bearing or a crank support bearing (or several of each!). As long as the crank journals aren't severely scored it can be reused. Pretty sure there are specs too for measuring them.......again an engine machinist does...

Whatever may be wrong, you won’t know for sure until you break the engine down and inspect it, which a rebuilder would do for you. They’d tell you if the block is junk. I know enough to be dangerous here, and I’d say #1, “thrown rod” can mean many different things to me. It might mean the...

It will be a lot less trouble to rebuild the one you got than to try and stick one in there that you aren’t sure about. With all the work involved, do it right and have yours rebuilt. It will be better over the long haul. You gotta take it out anyway, let an engine shop give you their opinion...

Not trying to downplay anything, your situation sucks, but if any work required Mitsu parts along the way there would have been lost time waiting for parts to ship in.....keep that in mind. Each project probably had unknown parts requirements, so they wouldn’t order until they got into each...

Put in a bigger fuse and see if that allows you to identify a malfunctioning gauge. I’d only go up one fuse size though, if it blows that one, not sure what I’d do next. You said sometimes you can run it for a bit before it blows, during that time have you noticed any lights out / gauges acting...

If you heat the glue strip with a hair dryer you won’t need to cut the plastic.

I vote for control arm bushings.....I can’t see how a CV axle could cause the problem you describe without them being severely out of round.....and bearings seem unlikely as well. Checking the lower control arms wont cost you anything but time. I checked mine with a huge long prybar once...

70-4, 70-5, 70-6

There is a section of the FSM that details the location of every ground in the whole truck. I’d check and clean each one. Do these lights flicker with the engine off?

It’s the Outlander Sport?

If the factory wiring contact points are clean you shouldn’t have any issues. As for your EGR, they are only activated when engine is under heavy load, when are you experiencing the stutter you posted about?

I wish my truck looked that good.....I’d take a dent like that over rusted out rockers any day.

New metal. Only those in the rust belt will understand how great this looks. And new upper ball joint. So much new non rusted metal!!