Search results

Although I didn't take any good pics, one major difference between the OEM and the Arnott is at the top. The Arnott is flat other than the 3 mounting studs and the air fitting which also stands proud. In the above pic of the OEM, you can see the large center nut - that really gets in the way...

The bottom picture is a close-up of both the old and new lower eyes. The old one is on the bottom and yes, the weld on the new one is much better. Given the origin of this thread, when I snapped that part off on a less than year old Arnott, I wonder how many others have experienced the same...

I know this thread is about D2s, but I'm planning a future build of an RRC on 35s possibly going to 37s down the road. I'm curious what you guys are looking at for wheels - the stock 16x7.5 isn't going to cut it I'm afraid (bummer since i have 2 nice sets) and I don't really want to spend any...

I finally got around to installing my new replacement Arnott strut and I think I know why they took so long to get them in stock - the new one is totally different than the first one. Of particular note, the lower mounting eye is much beefier, and the strut is flat on the top instead of having...

I'm going to leave the Llams kit in for now, but I'll be running it in 'normal' (off) mode and re-installing my Johnson Rods. The Llams kit only gives 2" of lift vs the 2.5" for the rods. I might use the 'lower' setting of the Llams with my Rods when on the highway, but I suspect trying to run...

I'd just be happy if they brought it in as a straight Comercial van. I'll be ready to replace my current NV200 in a couple years and I'm hoping we'll get more of the mid-size vans in our market by then. Right now the Merc Vito is our only mid-size offering. Competition will be good for the...

Well, I'm about to remove mine. Call it an experiment, but I'm not in love with the system. I don't like the limit strap design, and 2 inches seems to stress the struts a bit more than I'd like. I also dont like the idea of loosing 2" of suspension travel. I actually think a 1" spacer might...

Yes, the only simple way is with a 240v inverter. No magic involved. Fwiw, although you have a good deal of battery, keep in mind that anything with a heating element, e.g. a cook top, uses a ton of power so make sure you have a plan to recharge those batteries.

Looks nice with the blacked out wheels. I'm sure some locals can help direct you to an appropriate trail to 'fix' those running boards. :)

I know LR considers the driveshaft non-rebuildable and only sells it as a whole piece for $500 or something like that. I found my center support was bad the week before heading up to the Rubicon for a snow run last month and didn't want to spend the big money so I threw an aftermarket part in...

Yup - as stated above you most likely induced a cross-axle error that dropped you on the bumpstops when you randomly started changing the settings. It's a little frustrating doing the calibration the first time you do it, but you'll get the hang of it with some practice. Once you get it sorted...

Guess I shouldn't be surprised. I tried a generic 'duralast' front half shaft and killed it in the first 20 trail miles.

Well now you're scaring me. I recently recently replaced my driveshaft with an aftermarket part since I too had a failed center support. My theory for going with the aftermarket was that the driveshaft doesn't see any real articulation on this rig so it shouldn't be under too much stress...

I look at the pics and think 'yeah...I could do that' I mean come on, how hard can it be? yeah...maybe not. It does give me thoughts though given how cheap Discos are out here.

Yes, I ditched the TPMS since I never run at OEM pressures - either higher on the street (E-rated tires) or lower on the dirt. I just shut it off with the GAP tool.

Agreed - I suspect it's that corner. The strut is actually only about a year old so I find it unlikely the bag itself is leaking and suspect the fitting/plastic line yet I can't get any bubbles. Since I have a bunch of extra tubing I was thinking I'd run a temporary line from the valve block...

I've done this on both my LR3 and a friend's LR4. I used my little 110v MIG with no problems. Just disconnected the battery and went at it. I do have another friend who had his LR4 done by a 'pro' who promptly set the inner wheel well liner on fire though, so do be careful. :)

hmmm...looks familier

I've had poor luck with the soapy water test as well. I have a leak at the driver's front on mine and suspect the fitting at the top of the strut but don't see any bubbles. The valve block is new as a precaution but she still drops at that corner. I have more diagnotic work to do but it's not...

Under normal circumstances I avoid extended warranties like the plague, but on the Cooper STT-Pros I picked up a couple months ago from AmTire I popped the extra $40/per for the warranty. I pained me to spend the money but I've heard nothing but good about their warranty service and I killed 2...