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Let's just say... it does not ride like a standard Canter.

I believe that you are correct in your assessment. You could always do as I did, that being to replace the leafs with a 5 link coil setup. :)

It's probably a translation thing, but what is tyre extension?

Given that you are getting the habitat manufactured by someone (not a DIY build) I would take the simple option... ask the company as to how they recommend you lift the unit. They should know better than anyone else. On a side note... I see that this specific unit (which I assume is yours) is...

In fact you have posted numerous pictures of habitats, but I am unsure which, if any, are actually yours. As they say... the devil is in the detail.

You keep asking generic questions for situations that are not generic. How you lift your camper body will be specific to its design. Case in point... I have built specific lifting frames for doing this particular task.

Be it a super strong or weak subframe mounting system, neither would negate the vehicle being tipped over by strong winds, as in your example picture. If you are worried about this particular situation occurring, maybe reconsider the height of the vehicle, as that will have a more significant...

As far as I know, Total Composites is a reputable company, so I would doubt that they would put anything to market that was not tested to be strong enough. If it wasn't strong enough they could be sued if something went wrong. I doubt they would put themselves in that position.

Probably should link to the specific video that you want opinions about...

If you look at the last photo, the legs are removed.

You did not really answer my question, but from your photos I can only assume that you are relying on the bolts that hold your springs to provide all of your stabilization.

What gives you subframe its fore, aft and lateral stability?

You're only after a rough idea, so I would simply use the formulae for a torus. Google "volume of a torus" and you will find many online calculators.

This thread is primarily for members to give examples of Fusos in action; it's not really a discussion thread.

Mudguards/Fenders... same thing. As I said, they will flex, so it does not matter if you fit them off the chassis or subframe. If you are concerned about their flexing having a negative affect, just mount them off the subframe.

On my truck the rear mudguards are attached to brackets on the chassis, but the reality is that it does not really matter one way or the other. Mudguards are normally flexible, so are not usually affected if twisted, unlike a camper body. It probably comes down to what the regulations are in...

I guess that having a DPF, which my 2010 Australian FG84 does not have (equivalent model), would be a valid reason for getting an ECU remap. Given that I have not gone down this path personally, I am not in a position to give any recommendations of who could do a remap for you. But... as I...

Does your truck have a DPF? I did not think that the 2008 FG140 did.

Well, that depends... do you want your fillings to stay in your head when you hit a pothole? :) The standard bump stops have little to no softness; if you bottom out you will definitely know it. Something like a Timbren progressive bump stop is a very worthwhile upgrade, in my opinion.

In Australia there are now many people that have the skills to do a remap on the 4M50 engine's ECU, which is one thing that has definitely changed since I posted last about blocking off the EGR. Something to bear in mind if thinking about doing an ECU remap is that once this has been done...