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The Defender is different than other modern Rovers. The configurable terrain response allows you to manually lock the center and rear diff if you want to with the touch screen then they should stay fully locked as long as you want. The computer can decide to lock and unlock by itself like other...

They’re electrically actuated clutch packs both center and rear. The center diff has a clutch pack with 10 clutch discs in it. It’s the same transfer case Land Rover has used for the last 15 years in the FFRR, RRS, D3-5, Defender Works V8. Here some pics of the clutch in the transfer case.

Well the D3/4 has a older fully automatic terrain response so there’s real way to screw it up. The new Defender has fully configurable terrain response. You can “manually” lock and unlock the diffs you can also control throttle response and how aggressive the TC is. 19’s plain and simple don’t...

I think it’s primary a tire issue. 19’s with a glorified road tire and probably not aired down. Outside of that the terrain response probably isn’t configured right.

You run the same springs as you would with the stock struts. So OEM, OME, Dobinsons, King.

The Evo course 18” wheels might fit they have a wider off set than the PD1880’s.

I would change it way before then. I think that’s the main reason the 5.0Land 3.0L petrols have timing chain issues even with updated guides.

Check these out. https://www.sahara4x4.com/b2c/producto/MUD016/2/kit-of-4-adjustable-shocks-for-discovery-3 I’ve looked at these for my Disco they’re pretty expensive.

Exactly. Toyota has even made parts for Land Rover before. I know on the LR3/4 they had all Denso engine electrical systems as well as several sub systems. I assume the new ones are the same. You can bypass a lot of systems on a modern Land Rover. The only things I can think of electrically that...

So turns out his struts are Arnotts.

That’s why I’m going to do 265/70-17 on mine and maybe a slight lift with the GAP tool.

Yeah you need the strut spacers as well.

I heard about a LR3 with 640k miles and I personally know of several with 300k+. It’s all about maintenance. All the issues are well documented on these vehicles. You should take that into consideration before buying one. Also replace wear items before they’re completely shot it could save your...

Would any of you drive cross country on 12 year old tires? Or tires with over 100k on them?

Just because a air strut isn’t leaking doesn’t mean it doesn’t need to be replaced. He is off road a lot and I’m pretty sure his LR3 has around 130k miles on original struts. My rule of thumb is at every 100k do a full suspension overhaul. Valves, struts, compressor, control arms, etc.

It also has the alternator mounted up high near the intake manifold which is nice for wading.

Yes and no there are some block differences and the Land Rover version is higher compression and has shorty headers. The internals are identical though as are the injectors. It’s a rock solid engine it’s not unheard of for them to go over 300,000 miles. Parts are dirt cheap as well. It’s like...

Around town the 4.0 is far from miserable. It’s a very torquey engine. IMO it’s no worse than a Gladiator.

Actually now that I really think about it the only thing on any Land Rover I’ve ever had just fail was the alternator on my LR3. I’ve had stuff wear out over time but nothing that’s didn't give me a ton of warning. Shoot I don’t think my parents did with their D1,D2 x2, or LR4 either. Stuff wore...

You know it’s kinda funny I was just thinking and the only time my LR3 has ever “broken down” was when the flipping Denso alternator died. If you crawl around on these newer trucks enough you’d be surprised with the amount of Denso (Toyota) parts. The dang power steering pump on my LR3 even has...