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Mostly agree, except for winching or recovering uphill, from a ditch etc. This reinforces why I don't mind doubling up - the slight loss in speed, is not a big deal on a short pull. No different than if you had a slower winch (16ti) to begin with. Which is a must if you don't double up on a...

Just realized I mis-quoted feet/min to feet/sec. Doesn't change any of the concepts. In my example above the single line would save you 0.35 minutes, not seconds. The energy would also be amp-min instead of amp-sec (they're imaginary units anyway, done strictly for math purposes).

Good point you brought up, that's why I'm including line speed calculations, which include the time factor by nature. In most weight settings, the snatch blocked 8274 is FASTER than single line counterparts. Let's compare itself for now, at 8000 lbs: 4000 lbs snatch block (8000 lbs effective)...

After going through all the charts, I'll break down the data in classes of line pull to make it more useful. If (BIG if) money was no subject, I find the following 3 winches, when combined with snatch blocks, will give the highest efficiency in terms of power + speed + amperage: The 8274...

I'll address heat generation. Heat produced by a motor can be calculated by various methods, either through voltage drop and current of the motor winding, or motor efficiency. Being a mechanical engineer, I like to look at the total system efficiency. Let's look at the last example from above...

I was reading through a few winch threads lately, and saw much discussion on speed vs heat. Being a curious engineer, I did some digging on Warn's site and found some interesting info to share. My theory is: with a DC motor, the closer you get to stall, the higher the amperage, the higher the...

I would recommend the 6.4 as well. It's a very capable engine based on owner reports, and you're well within its capacity. Many owners have towed 10k+ lbs 5th wheels with them and get near diesel mpg (10 - 11 mpg). By going with a 6.4 2500, you'll end up with a lighter rig, and coil suspension...

For me, if I'm on a true "expo", away from civilization for extended periods, then I won't be tackling anything that requires a SA. Instead, my focus is to drive conservatively, and therefore enhance reliability, and see / experience as much remote land as possible. This is not to say I'd...

If you're close to the border I'd recommend shopping in Canada. With our weak dollar there're lots of great deals to be had. A few months ago I picked up my 05 LX470, with 85,000 miles, for 11,300 USD. Mind you that's exceptionally low, and I had to jump on it, but good deals can be had if...

I'll second the Tahoe/Yukon. Chevy smallblocks are very good in terms of efficiency, especially if you can find an 08 or newer with the 6 spd automatic. A 4runner would offer negligible gain in mpg, and are quite a bit smaller. The Sequoia and LC are decently sized, but as others have...

With 34s you'll probably need more than 3.21s, or else you may render 8th useless. My Hemi and 33s barely pull 8th with 3.21s, though I get great mileage for a V8. Wonder if it's cheaper to find a junkyard Hemi with 3.92 gears and rip off the entire axle and front pumpkin?

It's short compared to this: Joking aside, I'm sure the OP won't be rock crawling with it. For general logging road long distance expeditions, I'm sure it'll be fine. I've taken my old Prevost bus conversion down more dirt roads than your average SUV...

Recently acquired an 1895GS and am impressed with the quality, definitely none of the early Remlin issues. Beauty of the 45-70 is felxibility, you can load it anywhere from mellow cowboy action to a major thumper - I believe the Garret loads, which pushes 540 grs at 1550 fps, punches through...

lol, I'd die for those choices! Here in Canada, there's no LC period. Our only choice are Lexus versions that's loaded the the roof with electronic crap, and costs more than a newborn child. ($100k) You know you have too much electronics when your overlanding toolkit contains a Toyota...

Must be a wealthy school. Few high school kids can afford to run / maintain a Disc if they're not diehard enthusiasts that does all their own work. Even then it's a stretch.

While not technically a "rig", I have a 1964 Prevost bus conversion that's getting awful close to retirement age! (people retired earlier in the 60's...) It's taken me on many expeditions down various logging roads of BC, and dry camped for weeks at a time thanks to the 200+ gal water supply...

2nd this. The Explorer, especially the late models (w/ IRS), are under appreciated for domestic overland use. I don't rock crawl on my expeditions, instead, I need payload, which = strong chassis. Something neither an XJ nor an early 4runner has. Due to the nature of extended BC back-country...

It's interesting this gets brought up so much in a community dedicated to MODDING the vehicles. You nailed it on the chance being "extremely slim". In fact, I've asked on many forums, and not a single person could provide an example of insurance denial. Few people think about this fact - as...

lol, if you consider a Tahoe the "usual"... I think most Suburbans are not suited for off road trails, but for pure expedition use - covering large distances on off road ROADS, they're excellent with a mild lift and bigger tires.

You couldn't GIVE me a 6.0 in the GMT 800 3/4 ton Burbs! I'd gladly pay extra for the big block. The only 6L I'd consider is a post-08 GMT 900, with the 6L90, which the small block desperately needs. Mileage depends on application - it's unfair to compare the 5.3 because it's in a much lighter...