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6. Now that we have all the parts, it's time to start mocking things up. First I traced the new recliner handle to come up with templates for the hole that would need to be cut in the carpet and the hold that would need to be cut in the Subwoofer frame. 7. NOT PICTURED, but i re-installed the...

I've known for a long time that one inevitable failure in the LR3 is the rear door hatch. Because the handle for the tailgate is in the upper door door and the actual lock assembly is in the lower gate, they are separated by electronics. This means that any failure to your electrical system, the...

FYI, My wife didn't like the iPad setup because she had nowhere to connect and charge her phone. I changed everything over to a dual iPhone dock setup. So the ipad case, modified adapter, ram mount hardware, and connector cables are up on ebay: Apple iPad Mini 1,2/Retina,3,4 Car RAM Mount With...

I think you need to make those photos public in your google drive. I'm just getting grey boxes.

Haha. That guy on ebay must be making a killing off of idiots willing to pay $200 for ~$15 worth of wire, resistors, and connectors. The D4 lights are plug and play, you will just need to crimp some of these between the turn signal feed and ground...

^^^ Yeah, that is what I was talking about. With those two big lights Garner has, I would look great to recess them into the grill like this. Maybe keep the center piece and somehow mount it back in place instead of removing it entirely like in the photo.

What if you cut holes in the grill piece itself and mounted them kind of countersunk into the grill? Kinda similar to a RRC? If you were concerned about resale, you could pickup an ebay grill for <$100 to do it. Looks like

Buy a Halogen LR3 headlight and separate the lense from that? Looks like they run 100-150 per side on ebay. Much cheaper than buying a new adaptive headlight.

Very Cool. Is it just a sub frame spacer or do you have to modify the propshaft length, drop the transfer case, etc? It looks like the rear drop is dead simple, how is the front? I'm guessing you have to relocate the subframe AND the engine mounts?

Why go through the firewall at all? Just use an Add-A-Circuit in you passenger compartment fuse box and run a wire up the a pillar cover into the headliner. I literally did this earlier today so that my ipad would charge when the truck is off. I tapped into F1 (Map lights) behind the glovebox...

No, it's not. The red in my image already represents the 285 tire. You can run most 285 tires without a spacer. A spacer will decrease the forward and backward clearance, represented by the blue.

Thanks! I'll send them out this afternoon.

As long as you can Venmo to avoid fees. Sure. PM me you details

As long as we're talking lugs. I forgot I had these in my tool box. 20 OEM Land Rover lugs WITHOUT stainless finishing caps. As far as I can tell, these were only standard on 2005 LR3 before they moved to the stainless lugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301881613680 They could use a new powder...

Awesome. I was pretty sure that this was the case but I had not actually tried it with my IID tool. I'm glad I wasn't wrong!

I'm pretty sure the Gap tool is only vin locked for editing config files and modifying the EAS settings, but it will work as a code reader on any compatible LR.

Those are the 285/50/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ

The official apple 30-pin will charge and play audio through the adapter. No need to use the headphone jack. The audio cable I linked also supports both charging and audio: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GI9OLW0

That is at "normal" height but I am running about 1.5" lift in front and 1" lift in back thanks to the IID tool. Here's a closeup of the front bumper trimming I had to do to make room when i put the .75 spacers on. The screw in the bottom that holds the fender liner is actually relocated about...

Also, .75 still lets the wheels poke out just enough to look much cooler than stock: