Search results

Hey everyone. Scratching my head on what to test/replace next. I've got a 2008 E350 XLT extended that I converted to 4x4. Since before the conversion, the rear-right brake has had issues getting stuck after extended sessions of braking (coming downhill from a mountain). I've replaced the...

A few photos of our 2008 E350 Extended, converted from 15 passenger van to our 4x4 explorer. It’s been about 2.5 years of work so far. Still need a grey water tank, paneling on doors, trim all around and final lighting, but it’s otherwise super functional.

Unfortunately it’s not the case. I’m running 55 front and 70 rear.

Couple of weeks ago, we were driving our DIY/MG E350 in some poorly lit roads. I hit a couple of speed bumps faster than I could slow down for and the hits were not graceful…van drives fine, I see no leaks or anything bent, but I’m noticing more activation from RSC?ABS when we hit smaller...

Great idea! I ended up drilling the rust-welded stud and then using the 3-jaw puller. Knuckle is at the machine shop getting the stud removed.

I’ve checked multiple times because this amount of effort is insane, but yes I did remove it! I’ve been able to get more progress using a 3-jaw puller. The bottom right stud is still stuck, so I drilled it from the front and hoping this relieves pressure and let’s me remove the hub.

Rust! There’s a layer of rust on the studs and the flange that goes into the knuckle. It’s insane!

Thanks for the help, @Walkers need are definitely off. I did see this video before, but entering in there has been useless… I did make progress today by doing two things, drilling out the side from the front (threaded side), then using a 3-jaw puller. I’m finally seeing some separation. Bottom...

I’ve been doing that, but can only get a gap going on the left sides the right side will Not budge…

Got a 2016 Dana 60 out of an F250. 90k miles. Overall looks great, just needs a good clean and coat of paint. I’m disassembling it to replace ball joints, u-joints and seals. I’m at my wit’s end trying to get the passenger wheel hub out. It so stuck on one side, I cannot move it. I’ve used...

@Raul for the reinforcement, are you simply using a longer bolt for the trackbar? Where are you bolting the other end? The frame on the other side?

The routing has to be moved to clear the transfer case!

This is a great idea! Thanks!

Thanks for this. I think I have all the parts needed to get my setup. I’ve got a bracket that I’ll make a copy of and make a little longer, then use a shifter mechanism from an old F150/Bronco. I think this will get me what I need, the shifter rod will just have to have an extreme/funny bend to...

Thanks @Raul , I was able to confirm this is the same for my t-case (see here).

I was able to confirm my theory, more details here: BW1356 Wiring. @Verkstad i think the short is coming because 12V is coming into and out of the switch from two sources, while I assumed one was ground. I just need to separate the two pins.

@Raul is this just an on-off functionality on the indicator switch? I’m trying to figure out why my BW1356 switch is not working properly. The Switch works outside the t-case, but blows the fuse when installed on the t-case and switched to 4Lo or 4Hi.

Hello, I’m looking for some help with a wiring diagram or ideas on what could be affecting my setup. I have a 2-pin 4x4 indicator switch that goes into the T-case. When I wired it outside the transfer case, it works like a normal switch, where pressing the ball/switch closes the circuit...

@Raul this is a great idea, thank you for letting me know. Do you happen to have any other shots of your setup? Any shots underneath? Also, have you had any trouble with the T-case falling out of gear without a detent plate?

Hello, I have a build thread going on, but I need your help in figuring out how to properly get the transfer case linkage set up. My build is a 2008 E350 5.4L with a 4R75W that was recently rebuilt and converted to 4x4 with a short 31-spline output shaft, then mated to an RF-3L3P-7A040-AB...