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Thanks for the write-up, sounds like a good system. On the pricey side. Dan.

Certainly interested. Tell me more and share some pics if you have them. And yes maybe start a new thread. Dan.

What brand CTIS are you using? Dan.

Buy a secondhand/wrecked one here in Australia, strip it out and send the parts to USA. Buy a 2WD in the States, use parts to convert to 4WD. You would then have the States - Chassis/ Vin Number. Problem is then solved -- Maybe. Dan.

Bring Fido. It will probably be a lot cheaper and you know what you have. Dan.

Okay more looking. It isn't a neutral safety switch because it is only on the 1st/reverse shift rail. You would be able to start it in any other gear - but I did try. Made no difference. The switch is normally open and only supplies power to what ever when in 1st or reverse gear. It is shown in...

Story Time. I have a Fg649 that I'm fitting High Speed Transfer Case Gears too for the owner. The case is the same as earlier models other than it has an extra switch mounted near the top on the right hand side. This is on the transfer case and on a 2WD would be on the tail housing. It is...

Yes, (the spigot) it sits in one of four positions depending on the number of teeth that the gear needs for your speedo to give the right reading. And also it does have the position marked on the top by the number of teeth. Should say this is on a Canter so seems to be the same on an Isuzu. Dan

My manual says there is a gauze filter in the inlet line union on the primer pump. If not there then it would be worth removing all unions to have a look and blowing lines clean. On my Landcruiser I had a union that got blocked up. Same symptoms loss of power on the highway. Took me a while to...

Like "SkiFreak" says 5th is overdrive. I wouldn't tow heavy in 5th gear myself but saying that these are truck boxes and heavier than your little duel cab. They are also known in some circles to have problems with these boxes Mainly 2wd tippers, but same box no transfer. Yes, Stu if he is around...

Not necessarily as there is a rubber to stop leaks and a rubber to make it all work. Dan.

That certainly is some beautiful country. Keep the pics coming. Dan.

Sounds to me that the "rubber" seals (probably not rubber any more) are buggered in the master cylinder. So, Yes it will need to be removed and have a new seal kit fitted. Hard to get too, Yes somewhat. I've taken them out without removing the dash gauges and taken the dash out (maybe slightly...

Yes, from my end we are back to guessing (well not really). Injector pump is done - injectors are next as it all fits together and has to be right as one effects the other. If your injectors are leaking (which they can) fuel will be forced into the cylinder at the wrong time and not burning...

Glad to help and great that it is going. Now is the smoke gone or are we still at stage one. Dan.

If you didn't changed the gear positions when you took the pump of, then they won't be any different now and it should still run. Even if is as before and blowing white smoke. Okay lets go. I take it you know where your timing marks are on the engine. Remove tappet cover and number one...

Usually, yes it takes a good pull/twist to get it to move but generally they come out. No tricks. Dan.

Maybe / could be, something as simple as timing of the injector pump. The pump sounds like it is working if the injectors are spraying fuel so I would be checking that timing is right. Dan. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4iev7656pu3nevg/Fuel%20Timing%201.pdf?dl=0

I have welded rims numerous times and there is probably not a right way or wrong way other than using the right welding rods. If they are a rim repair mob than they will know what is best. I will say that they are probably cracking from fatigue (rim is flexing). Rim blanks were not heavy...

My situation would have been it would have gone back to them and not even driven home if the fault happened before I left town that is for certain. It's a new Vehicle not one with FAULTS on leaving their yard. Not good. Dan.