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RTFM: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Battery-Protect-12V-24V-65-A-100-A--220-A-EN-NL-FR-SE-DE-PT-ES-IT.pdf They also have a Smart BatteryProtect w/Bluetooth, and you can set the voltages to anything you want via App if the dumb one is unsuitable for you.. you can also turn...

automotive relays are like 100-250ma on average, and in that setup @jonyjoe101 proposes has two mechanical relays so probably double that, it gets worse as you get bigger.. a 200A mechanical relay will pull a few amps all by its self. $24 for the Victron Solid State LVD is worth it.. I was...

Victron LVD's are really nice, I use em.. they are solid state so they use like 1.5ma, its not going to impact your battery capacity at all. They are to protect batteries, not the food.. people make mistakes like leaving lights on or something and it can be costly if you have alot of money in...

Made in America or Assembled in America? Who's actually making the cells? It sure in hell aint Zamp. FWIW, my Panasonic HIT was also made in New York, USA at Tesla's Solar Factory.. but its not made with artisanal gluten free essential oils so mebe thats why its still cheaper than a 90W Zamp..

sigh, it would not matter regardless where the ground came from on input side.. Ground Input -> Shunt -> Ground Output -> Battery.. unless you bypass the shunt by hooking the battery to chassis it will have to flow through the shunt regardless if the input comes from a battery, an alternator...

even if it was the shunt would not care as long as it was directly connected to the output and the output was not using chassis because it'd be flowing through the shunt.. this shouldent be a problem because on a remote battery location you want the DC2DC charger as close to the battery its...

ok lets say it does.. shunts are used to measure current, it does not regulate current.. if it had a shunt, it would be measuring whats going into the Aux/House battery.. wire that the dc charger up directly to the aux battery at the battery and use whatever ground incoming you'd like.. and it'd...

Safety Reasons, ground straps can fail.. if you wanna use chassis add some redundancy to engine and battery so they are not just attached at one location, with one strap that may or may/not be capable of handling your desired loads.

For decent charge rate you want at least 10A for each 100AH, more so if you want a decent charge rate and to run DC appliances at same time you are charging the battery or are using a genset for charging.

OP is from Holland, NOCO chargers wont operate on 230v/50Hz

thats where most of the taffic is so thats where I get the most packets naturally..

What are you wanting to accomplish? Indefinite boondocking off the grid? Just keeping batteries full when parked in storage? Making it through a weekend? What kinda battery bank do you have current, what kinda battery bank are you planning for in the future? Do you have any idea your current...

I actually run a APRS Digi on my roof, so its real easy for me to plot coverage maps.. this is my direct coverage of denver, my height above average terrain is ~161ft w/6.7dbi omni.. now the GMRS coverage outta my vehicle is pretty similar hit me up w/a time and frequency and I'll try to...

IMHO, Zamp is the Yeti of solar.. they slap their name on something cheap outta china and now its stupid expensive for some reason.. but if you need that Zamp street cred, then I guess its yer money. FWIW, My 325W Panasonic HIT (considered one of the best panels on market), cost over a hundred...

I'd personally go with a ProNautic-P/Sterling Pro Ultra 20A Its customizable to any set points you need so it'll handle whatever batteries you decide to go with in the future and its pretty durable/rugged and works off worldwide voltage/frequencies.

I dont think anyone's ever regretted putting too much solar on, but plenty of people have gone the other way.. its one thing to fix a panel to one location on this planet, its another to fix it to a vehicle and drive it all around where each location's lighting conditions vary so much from site...

I have a 100/30 SmartSolar w/Panasonic HIT 325w that outputs nearly 70v on the roof of my setup.. Now you only have a 70AH AGM, so will your battery ever take a full 300W charge IRL? Not likely, if it does it wont be for very long.. however oversizing solar would provide you with far better...

no air circulation, the hotter tha panel gets the less it will output.. panels output is rated for like ~70F, those fixed to that roof flat in the southern US will be more like 150F+.. that'll be about ~25%+ reduction in output alone.. plus the plastic is going to degrade rapidly and since there...

look at house panels, you can get single 200w+ ones that will fit up there.. they output higher voltage (good) and would weigh less and take up less space (they usually more efficient)

what kinda space you working with? 200W is better than 160W.. its very hard to get peak output, especially with a fixed panel.. so a 160W will rarely output 150W+ and 200-240W would far more often.. put as much wattage as you can fit up there for fixed situations usually, unless you just have a...