Search results

I am not sure solid core wire would be a great idea for this application. There is plenty of UV stabilized stranded/tinned wire available. If you want a hardware store solution, look at low voltage landscape wire - duplex, UV stabilized and stranded.

These would make a nice professional solution: http://www.connectorconcepts.com/stsesevec.html, more details: http://www.prolecproducts.com.au/catalog/a124.pdf

The issue with 'B' is keeping the batteries in balance. If you run one way down, then tie them together to charge, yo run the risk of either not fully charging the discharged battery, or overcharging the charged battery. You also get a longer life out of the batteries if you discharge them...

For that you will want heavier gauge wire as voltage drop matters. 2AWG is probably fine, but it depends on the size of your alternator, type of battery and how much charge current you need/want from the alternator. Don't forget fuses/breakers at each end of this run.

The wiring between the panels and the controller is not that important, just needs to be rated for the current (42A for 10AWG). The wiring between the controller and battery IS important and if possible should be short and fat, or if it must be longer, you can use a remote sense at the...

Wouldn't figure 3b work, if you connect the far side of the switch to an only on when running circuit? With the switch on, it will run when the engine is running, and only when the engine is running. With the switch off it will never start.

Another thought - how are you going to isolate the rear heater core from the rest of the coolant loop?

Unless he cuts a bunch of wires or adds diodes/relays, everything will be back fed. The blower motor power comes from 'hot at all times' and the control circuitry comes from 'hot in run', both of these will need to be powered to have the blower work and the control dial work. If you want the...

Unless you add some diodes or a relay, you will be backfeeding every 12v circuit in the vehicle. Also, the fan motors in most older vehicles are speed controlled with a series resistor - so running the fan on low doesn't really save any power - it just dissipates power in the resistor as...

If you have your panels in series to output 72V, you probably shouldn't use a 12-24v boost converter. This is more of an issue for the boost converter than for the panels, the output electronics of the converter are likely only rated for a bit over the boost voltage. I can't say specifically...

I have been using a 12 - 24V DC-DC converter into a Victron 100/20 MPPT for months and it works swimmingly - I would go back to that option. If you already have the MPPT controller, for about $30 you get a fully configurable and monitorable battery-to-battery charger. It also works...

Or strain relief, or latching, or robust keying, or crimps that capture the insulation or many of the other features that modern connectors have..... This is pretty germane to this discussion - seems to me that they are still being recommended despite not being a good option.

I would disagree with this. The smaller APP are not good connectors for all the reasons discussed above, which is also why you rarely seem them used in professional use (with the exception of the high current versions). It is a pity that they appear to have become so popular in the DIY...

That would be my assumption as well - extension cords are not a bad way to get nice jacketed three conductor wire (although you only need 2 of them), but I would DEFINITELY cut the connectors off and use something more appropriate. One of my main gripes with the SAE connectors is that as far...

I am not sure why everyone is still suggesting Anderson Power Poles for this application? There is no good reason to use them, and they are clearly NOT the right connectors for this application (or really for most applications).

Many pf the circular connectors above have both panel mount and inline connector options. For example the Bulgin 900 series: https://www.bulgin.com/us/products/range/circular-power-connectors/900-series.html

I am not sure the boots would be the whole solution it this case - it appears the Anderson connectors are just pressed into a plastic housing and water would flow around the connector into the voids. Many of the circular connectors suggested above are IP67 - which means they are water tight...

Are these actually sealed in anyway when connected? It doesn't look like they are, so if the OP were to mount this to his roof (presumably on a horizontal surface), water could pour in when the panels are connected. Objectively, Anderson connectors are pretty crappy connectors, they have no...

Most solid state BMS without bluetooth draw < 100uA of quiescent current. The one in the battle born appears to be a fairly generic Chinese BMS, so I assume it is in the same ball park. BMS consumption is on the order of 100mAh a month - not something to worry about.

The propex is pretty easy for a DIY aftermarket install and will do what you want it to do. I would avoid the newer Atwoods, there are anecdotal reports of reliability issues and the power consumption of these has actually gotten worse in the most recent models. I would also avoid the...