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We didn't fill the tank till it was consistently over freezing, just blow the system out and your golden for sub zero camping. Have to test a new anti moisture set up in our trailer. Being on the West coast thats the only draw back in the colder winter camping is the condensation build up.

Almost any running board can be used as a slider... just a one time use tho... All seriousness, I wouldn't recommend it only going to lead to future headaches

275/65-18 no issues... minus the issues of trimming etc :LOL:

Yea fair enough not worth the risk of wrecking something. For your insulation project what did you end up using?

Good to know, we ran a diesel/kerosene furnace system in our RTT that sipped on fuel but only ran it when we went to bed and sporadically through out the day. Curious what the coldest temps the water system could be subjected to before there was a failure... not that i want to go out and test...

We just pulled the trigger finally one on. What would be peoples recommendations for winter use? Talking that -5 to -15C range. We camp all year round, and when it is not in use it will be parked in our garage.

Question for existing owners since I have not been able to see one in person yet. Is it possible to have rear recovery points fabricated or incorporated with these trailers? We tend to go down fairly technical trails year round, especially in the winter time I feel like there will potential...

On the same thought pattern.. I personally do not know of enough about trailers yet (not enough research or time spent). However, if the trailer frame itself is built as solid as described, plus a skid plate adds that additional cross rigidity it logic tells it should. This is basing on...

Anyone located around the Vancouver, BC area that owns a Summit trailer that my wife and I would be able to take a look at? Would like to see one in person before we pull the trigger on it. Also I noticed they do not have rear recovery points, I figure a decent fabricator would be able to add...

I run this Blue Sea isolator - https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/91/Automatic_Charging_Relays/ML-ACRs, so when I hook up my solar. I top off my deep cycle and then manually connect them to float my front. I did upgrade my primary start battery as well. Solar running a 200watt blanket...

For the tail gate, my plan one of these days was to dismantle it and wrap the carpet with a thing rubber liner (probably glue it to the carpet or tear off the carpet completely so its rubberized. Hopefully keep that zone cleaner

Where did you score those latches? Did they come with the striker pins?

Sometimes if the trails are brutally over grown ill throw a single max track between my light bar and tent. Use a ratchet strap to hold it in place. Works really well when your blasting your way through a trail at low speeds....

x2

Here is my dual set up.

Running with an RTT and lots of gear. Normal gravel I run around 25 front and rear (max speeds i am doing is 40-50km, if that usually just cruising along enjoying the scenery), the load out of gear I run defeats the whole race car speed situation. Snow depends on the situation, depth and what...

Ill pulled my 2nd and 3rd rows. 3rd row probably 50-75lbs guessing and 2nd row probably around the 75lb mark for each seat segment. I noticed having them gone the weight was nicely offset once the gear was in.

Current Project - Distribution block for power on the drivers side and relay block. This will then power the twin arb compressor, Light bars, ARB Linx system and any other future mods. My number one goal with this project is to keep it as hidden as possible. So far pretty happy with the work...

I swapped mine out a while back was happy with the results. Was a fleabay kit, no complaints. Could be bad luck with the bulbs?

Not sure if it has been done, most have the LR3s have the sub in the tail gate.