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I'll chime in here. I am in Joe's old 1993 "heffalump" and likely the least mechanically experienced of the group. I've been traveling/living in this truck for just over 2 years now. Roaming between the PNW and Baja. I spent several years considering a long term home after traveling in all sorts...

That def did cross my mind. However Steven's Pass is only at 4K' or 1200 meters and I've def used this heater at over double that before. Also, this time, it was not activating at all which was different. I did check connections and grounds the following morning and did not notice an obvious...

The past month as been full of midl up and downs and adaptive changes. Big thanks to Nate for letting me post up outside his house where he spent 2 days helping me try to sort of the generator issues. We started off with a volt meter. But somehow ended with reciprocating saws and cuts off...

They are smaller than the priors. But are lighter and actually have more CC amps. :)

My understanding, through some guidance of electricians is that I was basically reading the currents. The meter hooked up in the picture basically bridged the grounding point and measured current going through the system. So how the leads were used did not matter. Someone please correct me if...

I also want to start gathering parts for other repairs. The parking brake does not engage until enough air is dumped from the system. The parking brake lever/valve was previously replaced and made no difference. It looks like this "manifold" was previously sealed at one point and air escapes...

So I had a learning moment today.... We checked the lower kill switch... It kills the power to truck circuit. This is a HUGE relief for me and buys me some time to try to track this parasitic draw. I didn't think a kill switch would be tied grounds versus positives. But it works! Thanks a...

I checked the two kill switches. The top one is empty. It looks like the bottom one is being used for grounding only and not a kill switch. I pulled the smaller, B2B cable for good measure and ran the same test. No change in draw. There are some inline fuses in the dash, but I think they are...

I believe the smaller cable is from the solar controller. I didn’t pull that but when we checked for an open line, it was reading ok. I’ll try that next though and see if it changes anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Joe! I ordered a similar sized one from eBay.uk about 1 hour ago. I have been calling dozens of auto/truck/tractor stores here and haven't sourced one locally. I'm going to keep trying. As far of the electric issues. I hooked up a different voltmeter this morning after the batteries...

Correct, "found 529" at the main power wire lead I then went through every fuse circuit in the panel in the same way. As a way of double checking, if the batteries charge tonight and if I'm able to reinstall them tomorrow. I'l check ohm readings while pulling fuses.

We tested using a known grown with the fuses removed. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that the fan and and instrumental panel should be reading as open line which I think is the same/similar to overload. As far as I know, these circuits should be closed when the ignition...

My buddy isn't an auto-electrician. But he is experienced with a/c circuits and electricity. He was basically explaining circuits and how the overload reading was indicating there wasn't a fault in the circuit. We were using his Milwaukee "clamp meter".Like this one...

So using my friends advice and meter. He had me going through the fuses and checking "continuity". Al l this was done with the truck batteries disconnected. He stated the meter should read "overload" if the circuit is correct. He found "529" at the main power wire that feeds the truck. So I...

It's dark/wet outside right now. But I did look really quick. There may not be anything actually connected to the the top switch. I'll have a better look when it's light out again. And thanks Joe, sharing your experience with this truck is always helpful.

Is that what you are referring to? The switch on the top? This is right next to the battery box. I actually considered a kill switch but was thinking that was going to be a chore with all thick the main power wire is. If that top “key” is the kill switch, that would be a life safer and could...

I pulled them this morning. One is setting on a trickle charger with an AGM setting. I'll leave it through late evening and throw the other one on overnight. It's a slow process, I think it's a 5 amp charger. and the batteries are Duralasts from Autozone, 96 amps, 1000 crank amps each. The...

Welp, the electical gremlins keep peering their heads with the heffalump. 2 years ago, the heffalump was shipped to Bellingham, WA where it sat in grey weather for a couple of week. So there wasn't much solar harvesting. When I went to go pick it up, the 2 starter batteries were flat so they...

In other news. Last month, the heffalump received its best addition of 2023. Earlier this year Tobi was brought to a vet in central California. He looked to be around 6-8 kilos. He was severely malnourished, found with multiple shotgun wounds, and shut down emotionally. He was close to being...

Reading through all and trying to better understand the system. The past 2 owners utilized the heffalump quite extensively and as far as I know. Didn't' have any large issues with contamination or pressures (that have showed up yet). But I do see the benefit of having a safety margin. Partially...