Search results

4.88s only came on the V6 Autos w/ 31" tire package FWIW. For the 4.88s you need to get/buy the full third member for the rear (front diff has standard gear setup). The 4.88 third member can't be regeared for other gears like your stock 4.10 or 4.56 ones can (e.g., if you want to go to 5.29...

Here's a link to the Deeza vs standard aftermarket TREs: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/frozen-tie-rod-joint-trick-269437/#post52106292 And I have Lumax zerk caps on my zerks, but I go through them pretty quickly. Probably not really necessary, unless you just like accessorizing. :elkgrin:

That new suspension looks really nice. Noted that you missed your steering damper in your product listing (maybe intentionally as it's steering, but noticed it in the pic). With larger tires, the OME damper makes a huge difference -- that's the only OME part I have on my rig and am very happy...

FWIW, you can swap out for an SR5 cluster with most of the gauges you need for just the cluster and a new oil pressure gauge sending unit (~$50). It's very straight forward. You just need to know whether your speedometer is cable or electronic and get the appropriate gauge cluster. Otherwise...

The thing with E85 is not so much an issue with how engines run on it (though w/ more oxygen atoms per molecule it does run hotter than straight gasoline) and it has higher octane but that only matters if your engine is tuned specifically for higher octane (when it goes to lower octane gasoline...

With good oil, a maintained cooling system, and moderate driving, 22REs should be able to go at least 300k between complete rebuilds like Rich is doing. Timing chains are good to replace every 100k or so. If you do it with your 120k maintenance (60k schedule), so your other belt(s), water...

*Also remember where oil prices were in the late 70s and early 80s too -- though inefficient by today's tech, these Yota engines were MUCH more fuel efficient than those being made in the US and still got the job done, in what was an era of historically high oil prices. But then we've also had...

Just came across this awesome, especially the illustrations, Toyota Repair Manual PDF 1975-1987 (most is applicable to your truck): http://toyotachinook.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/how-to-keep-your-toyota-pickup-alive.pdf Also, can be purchased on amazon too...

One thing to consider too if your builder didn't mention is a new fly wheel. Lighter is better for high speed performance. Heavier is better for crawling...

If they're sold out on Ebay, Toyota does sell them too. Not sure about how the pricing breaks between, but the OEM ones definitely wear for a shorter period of time before failing -- less plastic on the cap to wear off before failure I guess. Take a look at LC Engineering...

Thinking more about your build... If you want to be low profile, one of the first things you'll want -- and I did on mine -- are the groan stopper bolt covers. Though they do increase your full lock turn radius, I find that I actually have tighter turns b/c I don't hesitate turning the wheel...

On these trucks and 4Runners, pre-95 they were in fact Japan built Hiluxes rebranded for the American market, Hiluxes and Hilux surf's respectively. Unfortunately, the EPA and California in particular made emission rules such that diesel Hiluxes weren't imported into the US past the mid 80s...

I'm an aspiring overlander (just got back from Belize and though the rental Suzuki was a pathetic excuse for 4x4, got me hooked on the idea of overlanding, and I think the wife -- like Richard, came across/been a fan of Long Way Round/Down idea of travel since I was living as an American student...