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Hi there, I'm just about to fit the rubber sock (seal) between the cab and the camper on my canter... Its the type supplied by the great guys at ATW's... Just wondering if there are tricks/advice to make sure i get a good seal etc... which side should i fasten first? and what sealant is best to...

and so the camper meets the truck... :victory:

been hard at it but coming together... on my second box (500) of 3/16 rivets....100's of holes drilled:Wow1: will mount camper on truck next week and then finish floor and front paenel few pics...more to come...

Just checked the link for the hinges and that's them alright... pretty hexy , nearly $30 a meter and 3 m lengths so a few large off cuts but they seem great by all reports... also, how much mod to the vehicle to fit super singles?

i run a number of kegs as water tanks...food grade stainless steel...don't get no better... just buy a 1/2 inch threaded stainless socket and weld on for tap and a 1 inch socket for a filler.... easily mounted using large donaldson air filter brackets.... will try to rember to post a picture...

Stress panels??? sheeting just about to begin, finished doors and other openings - 9 in all...18 locks, all keyed alike....35 spare keys...hehehe full dust sealed doors and waterproof plastic hinge (expensive) used throughout...

a few specs... 4600mm long, 2300 wide, 2200 overall height ( 2050mmm floor to ceiling ) chassis built from 100x50x6 mm alli, rest built from 50x50x3, and framed in with 25x25x3 and 25x50x3 (walls and roof are 50mm thick) roof sheeted with 2.5mm checher plate, walls 1.6 and floor 3mm flat...

Been real busy last few months... Camper nearly built...and.... truck chassis and cab painted.... so will be going back together shortly... a few pics...

Hi there... nearly got my new camper box built...pics up soon... now....how to attach it to the chassis.... if i was not to use a 3 point pivot system, what are my option?... when i pulled the previous bus back off (noosa bus build), it was fixed at the front with 2 rubber bushes....where can i...

Just pulled the back off my ex-noosa bus canter.... too rusty!!!seems like they used acidic sealant throughout and this has caused more probs than just moisture.... I'm starting a complete re-build after rust proofing chassis... I'm planning on using Aluminum throughout, both frame and...

No probs... Hijak away i say!!! will contact the bossman next week... :ylsmoke:

Just wondering if there are any modifications that need to be done to a FG434 or FG 649 to enable it to run 19.5 x 8.25 super singles (as made by Warrior)? Thanks:smiley_drive:

Got Jaimo at Truck's North to give me that number thanks Engineer... Seems like he's done quite a few....and hopefully won't be a problem.... is there a public weigh bridge up this way?.....

Would like to get GVM under 4.5 for cheap rego, and B.A.C of 0.05.... hope i can sort it out... tahnks for the advice... Billy

Hi there, found the Qld transport blue plate....and yes.... 5.7 ton GVM.... i want to de-rate it back to car license... Tare is presently just over 4.5 but I have started to remove rooftop AC, plus seats etc.... Do i need to get a new mod plate for the lower GVM or can i disregard the mod plate...

Thanks for the tip.....

Bamboo for some production work (at a festival) I was doing.... This vehicle travlled the East coast on Waste Vege Oil as fuel...:sombrero:

does anybody know the rule concerning license class and GVM..... My FG has got 4495kg GVM on the compliance plate, which i assume makes it a car license to drive....can anybody confirm...? It has, however been fitted with coachwork (not sure of its TARE) and upgraded suspension... There is...

:bigbossHL: spot on...small rear doors... glad to see 4WDTrucksBusCamper-Historians on the case!!!!:smiley_drive::bowdown:

my mate just aquired this ex-suncoast bus....isuzu300...'95 any ideas of makers etc?///