1988 ford van batteries relocating to right frame rail
- Thread starter tony326
- Start date
I guess I'd like to understand what other ideas you have for the engine bay. Relocating starter batteries is certainly possible but unless you truly need the space I'm not sure I understand the value in the exercise. I'd much sooner (personally) look into adding a house battery bank to the frame rail before relocating starter batteries down there. Most anything I could think you'd want under the hood in replacement of batteries could just as easily be put somewhere else.
SG
SG
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
moving start battery(ies) down is good for freeing up some under-hood space and also weight-distribution I reckon. Since you mention that later vans have them there as OE I don't see shorting out, etc as legitimate concerns so long as you imitate the factory methodology. I've pondered this relocation project myself but think I'd rather the batteries be under the passenger seat in a sealed/externally-vented compartment instead. I have a riser under the seat now that functions as a swivel but hope to fab a box with a swivel on top that matches the height of the existing pedestal and uses the otherwise wasted space. If it works out REAL well I think house batteries under one front seat and start under the other could be slick.
i have a 88 E350 ambulance ford van. i found 3 battery trays with wire setup taken from a late model powerstoke diesel van. these trays allow the battery to pivot down and holds the battery in place for easy removal. i'm modifying the stepwell floor in the side dual door so that i can have a second access to batteries from the top. i removed the batteries trays and placed air filter where the battery was for the banks turbo setup. i am installing a 3:55 posi dana 60 disc brake rear end with a hydro-boost setup. i am trying to get 1950 rpm at 65 mph with the gear vendors overdrive. i am adding smaller f-350 side fender breather vents making the F into a E and having louvers vents stamped into the hood. i want to relocate the fuel filter to the frame rail and add a air bleeder valve on top of the injector pump. i will add two electric fuel pumps one for the veggie tank as a backup with a protective sheet metal to prevent tampering to the filter. i have three agm batteries two for the starter, one extra and two 6 volt house batteries with three way selector switch. i have two flexible rollup 10 feet long solar panels which i can tie down to the diamond plate roof and two smaller solar panels permanently mounted in the front half the the van roof for solar charging.
The Banks turbo kit didn't come with an intake solution that allowed the batteries to stay in their stock location? I've been looking at a Hypermax van specific kit and they don't require any sort of battery relocation. If you must you must, but it seems like a serious pain just to be sucking hot intake air. Before you do the turbo you really must go thru the engine. Maybe you already have. I presume you're working with a 6.9L International which is the same engine my rig has under the hood. The 6.9 in stock form does not have adequate head bolts for a turbo upgrade. You will, sooner or later, stretch them and blow both your head gaskets. I went thru my 6.9 a number of years ago and installed layered metal head gaskets and ARP high tensile head studs along with upgraded valve rocker arms. I haven't done a turbo yet, but when it is time my particular 6.9 will be ready. I too have been contemplating the Gear Vendors OD but as you've already figured out, it really isn't worth the trouble without a turbo because the normally aspirated diesel would never have enough horsepower at highway speeds to actually hold 65MPH with a high-frontal-area van....even on flat ground. The biggest issue I've identified with both a turbo and a gear vendors is transmission heat. I've got a C6 and loaded to 10,000lbs on flat ground I'm typically in the 190-200F range. I've got 50,000lbs of auxiliary transmission coolers installed along with hood vents, so this is absolutly "best case scenario" kind of temps. Up a hill I can easily top out over 225F. Anything over 230 and you'll do damage to the transmission, so I often find myself driving by transmission temp gauge. If I were to add more power or have lower gearing available, this situation would get far worse, far quicker. The first thing I'm doing before either a turbo or a GV is to upgrade my torque converter to a "low stall" towing/heavy duty unit by either TCI or Hughes. I currently get nearly 10% slip uphill which directly translates to heat. TCI and Hugues both advertise a maximum 1-2% slip. This will also directly and positively impact flat-road RPM. I'm supposed to be at around 2250RPM with my tires and gearing at 65MPH and I drift between 2400-2600 depending on grade at that speed, so if I could be at a 1% slip my RPM's will drop nearly 400 just with a relatively cheap torque converter upgrade.
So, before you go relocating your batteries:
6.9 head stud/head gasket upgrades
Torque converter upgrade
Transmission Cooler Addition
Good luck.
SG
So, before you go relocating your batteries:
6.9 head stud/head gasket upgrades
Torque converter upgrade
Transmission Cooler Addition
Good luck.
SG
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Not sure "you really must go thru the engine" applies but it's best to be sure an engine is in good condition before adding more stress to its life. The adequacy of 6.9 IDI headbolts depends on boost levels more than if is turbocharged. Also not sure of what constitutes a turbo "upgrade" on an engine that was naturally-aspirated in stock form.
Again, depending on boost levels this may or may not ever happen.
Uhm, what? You're saying my 1993 Ford CC DRW NA 7.3 IDI with a ZF5 couldn't hold 65 mph on flat ground towing my 36' Dreamer 5th wheel? (which BTW, has significantly more frontal-area than even a boxy ambulance) I find that surprising...since I towed it with the cruise set on 70 mph from Arkansas to Baja...Put 235/85R16 tires (I ran 215/85 as OE then 235/85 as replacements) on your van with 4.10 axle gears and the .78:1 of the GV (vs .77 of my ZF5) and you'll see the IDI hp and OD ratio aren't the problem, it's probably just big tires/excessively long gearing.
Sounds about right, since the OE transmission cooler is in the engine radiator and your thermostat should be rated at 190*-205*.
I know what you mean but allow me a joke...uhm...those're some awful heavy coolers you're hauling around...
Whether 230 is terminal depends on where the reading is taken. I would not want 230* fluid being returned from cooler to pan repeatedly but if fluid is coming out of the converter at that temp, I'd be a happy clam.
Excessive TC slippage is bad and a TC that minimizes it sounds good. If ever I get that deep into my driveline I do plan to swap in the Hughes towing TC for the same reasons as those shared by SpencyG
I would do what pleases you, OP. If moving the batteries is what you want, do so. Don't feel encumbered to complete other modifications first as though there is a necessary order of operations for working on your own van.
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i drove van with turbo and overdrive 2100 rpm at 65 mph. i have a 7.3 with 31,000 original miles fire dept. vehicle according to vehicle log 12,336 miles a upgraded torque converter and large transcooler added 2-15-1990, last driven 9-2-1992 been in storage since. i will remove drive train to do modification head studs, cam,seals and convert c6 trans to ford 4x4 adapter eliminating the long tail cone when i convert to four wheel drive, i have a donor pathfinder and will do front end mods spencyg done to this van. i will remove the battery tray so the air filter will get fresh air from the headlight opening. mods to the engine bay to improve air circulation, hood and side vents, relocate batteries and fuel filter adding hydroboost eliminating the big vacuum booster.
That is really good. I'd be interested to know whether you find the need to go with a 2 piece driveshaft or not with a shorter 4x4 system. My rig was "adapted" from the factory with a very long tail section on the 2WD C6 transfer case that mated to my NP205. As a result, the front driveshaft is longer, but the rear driveshaft is just a single piece unit. I don't know whether 2WD econolines came with a 2 piece shaft or not, but if so it would be great to eliminate it in favor of a single piece unit. Sounds like you have a lot of work to do!
SG