SOLD - 1989 Ford E-350 ext'd body, 7.3 IDI, Banks Turbo, E4OD / $3,500 / Texarkana

Ben2

New member
Location: Texarkana, AR, USA

Description: 7.3L IDI with van specific gen1 Banks turbo kit (not sidewinder). RWD E4OD transmission. Dana 60 rear end, extended body. Power windows and locks. Dual fuel tanks (something like front 19 gallon, rear 21 gallon) both work* (* read under "known problems" about the front sending unit)

Lots of new parts in the past ~1.5 years (brake booster+master cyl, huge trans cooler, trans cooler hoses, K&N filter+wrap, all tie rods, water pump/rad+heater hoses/fan clutch/thermostat, all shocks).

Added stuff: Custom fitted front hitch to carry bicycles or something else like that. 5000lb rear hitch. Wired for 7 wire trailer (has an ancient brake controller). Has a spin-on transmission fluid filter added on the cooler line (replaced recently). Aftermarket spare tire carrier on the rear with a brand "new"/zero mile A/T spare tire (bought in late 2023) kept covered. Converted for camping, has a 20 gallon fresh water tank, 15 gallon grey tank with RV drain valve/hose hookup (needs new RV fresh water pump). Has very comfy full size foam mattress. No house battery or wiring in it, just the RV water pump and a couple 12v LED lights. Old set KO2s on it currently, but not dry rotted and no leaks.

Great running and reliable, just selling due to buying something else, and needing to pay a chunk on the loan I took to buy the other one. I took it out off road a little in Utah, Idaho, etc and was never worried about it. 5 digit odometer shows about 10k (aka: "exceeds mechanical limit"). Clear title in hand, in my name.

Price: $3,500

Known Problems: Typical light fluid drips for a 36 year old vehicle. Turn signal cam doesn't lock on, but signals work if held. Chip/crack in windshield, on top of passenger side (not in direct view. visor blocks it). No A/C because the system got chopped up by a past owner. Rear heater core is currently bypassed by me (wasn't when I bought it, did to reduce possible leaking points), but you can easily be put back just under the hood. Front fuel tank sender shows the gauge lower than what you have, it quickly drops to E even if you have about 1/2 a tank left (rear is accurate)
 

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