2 Batteries and a 2 bank charger question

Rezarf <><

Explorer
So I have two marine batteries on my camping trailer. I recently installed (but haven't hooked up yet) a 2 bank battery charger. My questions are simple I hope...

I will obviously hook up each battery seperately to the charger... one battery per bank. However, I was wondering if I connect the batteries together in parallel (+ to + and - to -) will that have an adverse effect on the charger somehow?

Sorry for the newb question, I know just enough about this electrical stuff to get me into serious trouble. :D

Thanks in advance-
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
If you tie the batteries together, then that will be a single "battery bank" - not two banks. Dual bank chargers would normally be like 1 for the truck chassis battery and 1 for the trailer battery.

There is no need to split the charging - i.e., if you have the two trailer batteries tied into a single bank, then you can use a single charger.

If you have the two batteries separate - then sure, do the dual charger thing.

When paralleling batteries, it's important to get the wiring equal so that one doesn't work harder than the other. If say one battery has 2' of wire and the other 4' and they are paralleled - the one with lesser resistance will supply more power to the loads and will also consume more power from the charger (since it is a little more drained). It will "do more work" than the other and wear out a bit sooner.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The theory on a double charger is it feeds both batteries individually, so for example they each receive a 10 amp charge, and then if you have a smart charger the maintenance cycle starts. If you have a single charger (or a double wired as a single) and feed one battery linked to a second then the first battery is charged and then the second battery.

Depending on how long the charger is on you may charge the first battery but not full charge the second.

DWH is resident "Electron Guy" on the forum, I pay close attention to what he writes, so I'm interested in what he has to say about my double charger theory.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thank you both. I think after doing some more reading that I am going to run the batteries seperate, and isolate them with a marine switch. Then I can charge them seperate, and run them one at a time and in theory, I can be charging the one that isn't being used while using the other.

I have shore power...

running a 2 bank charger...

wired up to individual batteries...

isolated with a switch for 1, 2, or both...

Running power from the switch to the fuse/distribution panel...

To power my accessories.

I will monitor both batteries with a voltmeter gauge... and try not to burn down my trailer.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
The theory on a double charger is it feeds both batteries individually, so for example they each receive a 10 amp charge, and then if you have a smart charger the maintenance cycle starts. If you have a single charger (or a double wired as a single) and feed one battery linked to a second then the first battery is charged and then the second battery.

Depending on how long the charger is on you may charge the first battery but not full charge the second.

DWH is resident "Electron Guy" on the forum, I pay close attention to what he writes, so I'm interested in what he has to say about my double charger theory.


(Martyn, I know you already know most (if not all) of this, so I'm not lecturing you in particular here - I'm just spouting off for whoever happens to stumble in and listen. :D )


Current will flow from the supply into the bus, then from the bus into the loads. In this case, the supply is the charger and the loads are the batteries.

Each battery will absorb however much current can overcome its internal resistance. The nearly full battery will have a higher resistance than the "somewhat" discharged battery, and will absorb current at a lower rate. I.e., more current will flow into the lower battery.

Once both batteries reach whatever voltage the charger is holding the bus at, then they won't absorb any more - the voltage is equal at the charger and at each battery.

So they won't be charging equally - but they'll both reach the finish line (bus voltage) at about the same time.


A very deeply discharged (dead) battery can have a resistance even higher than a nearly full battery, so in that case, the higher battery would absorb more than the lower (dead) battery, until the lower battery had absorbed enough to decrease its resistance, and then it would be absorbing more than the higher.

The higher battery would absorb more than the lower battery at first, but once the lower battery's voltage came up to where its resistance dropped, then current could flow from both the charger AND the higher battery into the bus, and then into the lower battery - until the lower battery gets up to where it doesn't absorb so much.

For instance, if the lower battery could absorb 30a but the charger was only supplying 20a, then 10a would flow from the higher battery and 20a from the charger until the lower battery was full enough to absorb less than 20a, then the current would all come from the charger which would then bring them both back up to the set voltage.

During the time in which that situation is occurring, there would be two supplies and one load on the bus.


That's with a constant voltage type charger. No worries. Even if one battery has longer wire it won't much matter, since it will still eventually reach bus voltage.



With a constant current type charger there is a potential problem.

Say the charger is forcing 20a to flow. One battery is really dead and has a very high resistance. The entire current flow will end up getting forced into the nearly full battery. The charger is looking to see what the bus voltage is so it knows when to back off, but the bus voltage is being held down by the dead battery and so the charger just keeps pushing and overcharges the nearly full battery.

This can also happen when you have a battery bank of mismatched batteries - different size, or different type or different age. It can also happen if you have a bank of matched batteries, but one fails. In that case, you start a chain reaction, where the failed battery causes the charger to overcharge a good battery, and it eventually fails, and so on until the whole bank is toast.



And then there is the "multi-stage charger, charging two different batteries" issue...

A good 2 or 3 stage charger does both types of charging - constant current and constant voltage. Generally, "bulk" stage is constant current and "absorb" and "float" stages are constant voltage.

So say you have a low battery and a high battery tied together and are charging with a 3-stage charger. Bulk stage is generally not a problem, as the charger will force its full output - say 20a - into the bus, and the current will get divided up based on the resistance of each battery. The charger will do bulk stage until the bus voltage reaches a certain point - say 14.4v.

Again, they won't charge at the same rate, but they'll get to the finish line at about the same time.

However...even though they've both reached the same voltage...the low battery isn't actually full yet, but the high battery is. The low battery still needs to have its chemistry stirred up a while longer to have absorbed all it can and be completely charged.

So now the charger sees that the bus voltage is at 14.4v, so it switches to constant voltage mode for the absorb stage, and holds the bus voltage at say 14.2v. It will stay in absorb until the current flow drops below say 1a.

The lower battery is absorbing current at a rate greater than 1a, so the charger keeps the bus voltage at 14.2v - which is perfect for the lower battery, but is too high for the higher battery; The higher battery is full and shouldn't be held at that voltage for a long time.

By the time the lower battery is full and the current flow drops below 1a and the charger drops to float stage and lowers the voltage to say 13.6v - the higher battery has been held at 14.2v for too long and has been overcharged.


The same problem can occur if you are charging just one battery (or bank) with a 3-stage charger while there are loads running from the battery. If the loads draw more than 1a, then the charger thinks the battery is still absorbing (even though it's full) and keeps holding the bus at 14.2v and overcharges the battery.


In either case, it's recommended to use a 2-stage charger instead of a 3-stage, so that the charger drops straight to float after bulk - there is no absorb stage so the charger can't be fooled into staying in absorb.

Some chargers get around the problem by setting a timer on the absorb stage, so that it will drop to float either when the current flow drops to under 1a, or when the timer runs out, whichever comes first. But that's a little bit imprecise. It could still end up overcharging the higher battery - though not as badly - or it could end up not getting a complete absorb done on the lower battery.

An Iota charger is 2-stage by default, and 3-stage with a timer on the absorb stage with the IQ/4 module. The Samlex SEC-1215a that I plan to install in my truck has a dip switch to set it in either 2-stage or 3-stage, but has no timer on the absorb stage - so when running it in 3-stage, it should only be charging one battery and with no loads on that battery.

That's fine - I plan to run it in 2-stage mode anyway, since I'll be using it to both top off my engine battery and recharge my house battery and will often have loads running from the house battery at the same time.



Okay...now back to Martyn's question...

Two batteries, not tied into a permanent bank.
Two chargers (say 10a ea.).

A) Is it better to tie the batteries and tie the chargers and supply 20a to both batteries?
B) Is it better to split them and give each battery its own 10a charger?
C) It depends.

The answer is A.
Unless the answer is C. :D

Why? Efficiency.
If one battery gets full in say 1 hour, and the other will take 4 hours, then for 3 hours, your 20a worth of chargers will only be putting out 10a.

Let's say you need to replenish 20 amp*hours into one battery, and 50ah into the other. You need to supply a total of 70ah to get them both charged. (I'm ignoring battery inefficiency calculations here.)

So you split them and each battery gets 10a. One battery will be full in 2 hours and then half the available charging current (one charger) will sit idle. The other will keep on keeping on for 5 hours to recharge the other battery.

Total time to charge both - 5 hours.

If you tie the batteries and chargers, then to supply the 70ah needed to recharge both batteries will take less time since you have the full 20a available throughout the process.

Total time to charge both - 3.5 hours.

(That's just an example to give the general idea - the actual charging times will probably be at least double what I just said because getting the last 10% into a battery takes a very long time.)



Unless the answer is C.

If each battery is rated to handle a max charging current of say 30a, and you've got two 30a constant current chargers - then you wouldn't want to tie them and potentially force 60a into one battery.

But if they were constant voltage chargers then it wouldn't matter since the battery will only absorb X current at Y voltage anyway. The rating of a constant voltage charger is simply the max amps it can supply - not the amps the battery will actually draw.



Hopefully I've sufficiently muddied the waters for one day. :D
 
Last edited:

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Thank you both. I think after doing some more reading that I am going to run the batteries seperate, and isolate them with a marine switch. Then I can charge them seperate, and run them one at a time and in theory, I can be charging the one that isn't being used while using the other.

Uh...wait, what?

If you are going to charge them separately, then you don't need a dual bank charger.


I have shore power...

running a 2 bank charger...

wired up to individual batteries...

isolated with a switch for 1, 2, or both...

Running power from the switch to the fuse/distribution panel...

To power my accessories.

I will monitor both batteries with a voltmeter gauge... and try not to burn down my trailer.

Okay, the two bank charger is connected to both batteries and is powered by shore power. It should be charging both batteries at the same time.

You set the switch to connect the loads to battery 1.

The charger is supplying something to that battery - whatever the charger is rated for - say 30a. As long as the loads are less than 30a, then the loads will be supplied by the charger - not the battery. The battery won't start to drain until the loads exceed the charger's output.


Exactly what charger do you have?
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Wow, that was an awesome read. I had to read it a few times. I am using a Guest 2611A 5/5 charger for 10amps total.

My hope is to run my LED RTT lights and the fridge for 3-4 days max without recharging with shore power.
 

Mike S

Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
I have used the same charger on two wet cell marine batteries. They were isolated and the charge worked fine - just make sure you isolate the two batts with the marine switch turned to OFF and that the charge leads are connected directly to each battery.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Wow, that was an awesome read. I had to read it a few times. I am using a Guest 2611A 5/5 charger for 10amps total.

5a is more or less a trickle charge. It'll take a long time to recharge batteries at that rate. It's looks to be designed mostly as a battery maintainer for a docked boat.

It does say you can combine the two outputs to get 10a into a 12v battery. If you were going with the scheme you mentioned of using one battery and charging the other, then I think I'd go ahead and tie the charger outputs and feed 10a to the battery that is being charged instead of trickling 5a to both.


My hope is to run my LED RTT lights and the fridge for 3-4 days max without recharging with shore power.

Well that depends on the batteries not the charger. If you have say a couple of 100ah deep cycle (not RV/marine) batteries, then they should handle what you've just described no problem.

Depending on the fridge. You won't run a 3-way propane/DC/AC fridge for very long off a battery.
 
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Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks guys, I bought an Isolator switch for: Off, 1, 2, or Both. This is what it looks like...

$(KGrHqEOKkME3r7BJGykBOCJHVHwfg~~_12.JPG


DWH, I have 2 110ah batteries that are deep cycle- flooded variety. I use an ARB fridge and I have LED's exclusively.

Mike, are you saying only charge the batteries with the switch turned off? I am just a bit confused on what you are saying here. I have both batteries hard wired to the charger. I am assuming from here I:

  • Run the + cables of each battery to their respective spot on the switch, for battery 1 and 2.
  • Run the - cables to the frame of the trailer.
  • Run the + out from the switch to my fuse/switch panel and ground the panel to the frame.
  • Control which battery I am using for power via the switch
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
I am assuming from here I:

  • Run the + cables of each battery to their respective spot on the switch, for battery 1 and 2.
  • Run the - cables to the frame of the trailer.
  • Run the + out from the switch to my fuse/switch panel and ground the panel to the frame.
  • Control which battery I am using for power via the switch

If you do it that way, you'll end up with 5a feeding into the offline battery, and 5a feeding to the active battery - and whatever loads are running from it...likely more than 5a.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
If you do it that way, you'll end up with 5a feeding into the offline battery, and 5a feeding to the active battery - and whatever loads are running from it...likely more than 5a.

DWH-

What would you recommend? Combining the two circuits for a 10amp charge? How would I swap from one battery to another, manually?

Thanks for sticking with me through these newb questions.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
It's hard to say; It's sort of a "six of one, half dozen of the other" situation.

As long as your loads are under 5a, then it doesn't much matter - the offline battery will be getting a 5a charge and the active battery will also be getting a charge of "5a - (whatever the loads are) = charge rate".


Let's say you take your batteries down to no more than 50% drained to extend their life. We'll say 50ah power used (rounding off makes the math easier). Then I'll make a SWAG and say the loads are 2.5a.

Okay, so it'll take 50ah / 5a = 10hr to recharge the offline battery (let's call it B). At the same time, you are also feeding 5a to the active battery (call it A), of which 2.5a is being sucked up by the loads, so it will recharge in double the time - 20h.


Okay, so you get back from a couple of days camping and plug in and the batteries are recharged in just over a day. Not bad.


Things would get a little more complicated if you were out more than a few days and needed to use a generator to recharge.
 
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Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks DHW, I am getting there...

IMG_3258.jpg


I still need to:
  • Create new battery cables for the switch and grounds to frame
  • Create a hot lead to the switch/fuse panel
  • Wire up accessories
  • Install a 110v fan to the shore power circuit in one of the box vents to draw cool air through when charging.
  • Install a terminal bus for the negative leads to my accessories as I am just gonna run all the + and - to the box for ease of trouble shooting and sure grounds.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Looks good, nice and clean.

Cool air isn't very important. Up to a point (over 100 degrees F), batteries actually work better the warmer they are.

Sucking out the hydrogen gas so it doesn't build up in the box and become an IED - IS very important (but it's a non-issue with sealed batteries).
 

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