Hey all I bought an ‘02 Montero xls 4x4 back in May. Before I could get to checking everything out properly my Trans and rear diff went out at the same time. Local wrecking yard has an ‘04 4x4. I know they are both gen 3’s but wrecking yard guy said 04 has two different trans and diffs so can’t be sure if it will fit. I can’t find anything online. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Only need the replacement as a quick fix while trying to find a place to rebuild my trans. And then of course have that one rebuilt too. Thanks in advance
2002 Montero 4x4 Trans and Rear diff help!
- Thread starter MikeE75
- Start date
MarkGramlich
Member
I believe the '02s had two different diff ratios. The 4 speed automatic has a different ratio from the five speed model. What transmission do you have? What transmission does the '04 have? The four speed has a manual transfer case shifter. The five speed has an electronic transfer case shifter.
normal_dave
waytoomuchwritinginposts.
Wow, what an amazing run of bad luck and rather unusual. Were you able to get a second opinion?
Anyhow, the '03 and newer rear differentials don't appear to interchange with the '01-'02 models. (Car-Part.com and Mitsubishi Online parts lookup). Same for the transmissions. This might be due in part to the new electronic traction control system that arrived on the 2003 models, along with the new 3.8L engine and "drive by wire" throttle system vs. cable on the 2002 and back.
The '01-'02 Montero Limited had the 5-speed automatic, with the 4.30 differential. Your XLS 4-speed auto model has 4.90 gears. Any 2001-2002 Montero XLS should have what you need.
Edit: Here's a good discussion on the Gen 3 rear differentials:
School Me on Rear Differentials Gen 3
Anyhow, the '03 and newer rear differentials don't appear to interchange with the '01-'02 models. (Car-Part.com and Mitsubishi Online parts lookup). Same for the transmissions. This might be due in part to the new electronic traction control system that arrived on the 2003 models, along with the new 3.8L engine and "drive by wire" throttle system vs. cable on the 2002 and back.
The '01-'02 Montero Limited had the 5-speed automatic, with the 4.30 differential. Your XLS 4-speed auto model has 4.90 gears. Any 2001-2002 Montero XLS should have what you need.
Edit: Here's a good discussion on the Gen 3 rear differentials:
School Me on Rear Differentials Gen 3
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Thanks for the info. I couldn’t find anything online, but I also just started looking. It’s the automatic with the manual transfer case, so I’m guessing it’s the 4 speed. The 04 at the wrecking yard has the manual transfer case also. He has a 02 but the transmission has already been removed. I called all the local wrecking yards in my area, and thats one wrecking yard with the 02 and 04.
As for the truck verything was fine with it for the first month I had it. I bought it off Facebook market place. It’s lifted and was off roared probably even an overlander, so I knew going into it there was going to be issues. There was a slight chunking noise for lack or a better term when I would give it gas, felt like it came from the ujoint, which got me thinking I needed to get my rear dif checked out soon. Just waiting for a vacation day. Didn’t do it all the time and so for the time being I just used it for work and babied it. Then for about a day once I got up to speed the whole truck would shake like I had a flat tire, let off the gas and it would go away but then I couldn’t get back up to speed without it shaking violently, and sound like it metal was breaking. Took it to the shop and they couldn’t find anything. I told them I think it was the rear dif but with no shaking and not finding anything wrong, they gave it back to me. Drove it around no issues what so ever, no metal crunching sound no shaking. For at least two months. And then while waiting for a parking spot at the local Walmart last week, I thought I got rear ended as I started to move into my spot. The truck lurched forward and there was a loud bang. Looked around no car. Pulled into my spot and I could hear metal grinding. Ran it through the gears and reverse sounded like pieces should have been falling all over the ground. Rear end didn’t sound much better. I have no time to do this myself so took it to my shop, and said they don’t have anyone there that will mess with the transmission and no shop that they use for other then what they do will deal with my transmission. The guy they recommended for the diff is not working due to the Rona. And that’s where things stand for now. I'm looking for a local shop and the only other shop I found is only taking appointments. I work on call and go out of town for 2-3 days at a time so making an appointment isn’t very easy. Was hoping a swap would be an easy fix until I got things back in order. But now that I know the 01 will fit I will look for one of those. Always good to have spare parts. I’ll keep adding updated as things progress.
As for the truck verything was fine with it for the first month I had it. I bought it off Facebook market place. It’s lifted and was off roared probably even an overlander, so I knew going into it there was going to be issues. There was a slight chunking noise for lack or a better term when I would give it gas, felt like it came from the ujoint, which got me thinking I needed to get my rear dif checked out soon. Just waiting for a vacation day. Didn’t do it all the time and so for the time being I just used it for work and babied it. Then for about a day once I got up to speed the whole truck would shake like I had a flat tire, let off the gas and it would go away but then I couldn’t get back up to speed without it shaking violently, and sound like it metal was breaking. Took it to the shop and they couldn’t find anything. I told them I think it was the rear dif but with no shaking and not finding anything wrong, they gave it back to me. Drove it around no issues what so ever, no metal crunching sound no shaking. For at least two months. And then while waiting for a parking spot at the local Walmart last week, I thought I got rear ended as I started to move into my spot. The truck lurched forward and there was a loud bang. Looked around no car. Pulled into my spot and I could hear metal grinding. Ran it through the gears and reverse sounded like pieces should have been falling all over the ground. Rear end didn’t sound much better. I have no time to do this myself so took it to my shop, and said they don’t have anyone there that will mess with the transmission and no shop that they use for other then what they do will deal with my transmission. The guy they recommended for the diff is not working due to the Rona. And that’s where things stand for now. I'm looking for a local shop and the only other shop I found is only taking appointments. I work on call and go out of town for 2-3 days at a time so making an appointment isn’t very easy. Was hoping a swap would be an easy fix until I got things back in order. But now that I know the 01 will fit I will look for one of those. Always good to have spare parts. I’ll keep adding updated as things progress.
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normal_dave
waytoomuchwritinginposts.
It can be difficult to find a good repair shop that can speak fluent "Mitsubishi", especially the more rare "Montero" dialect...
The rear differentials usually fair pretty well, unless the companion shaft circlip fails and leaks the gear oil out. Then you can have a rather dramatic failure. Look for evidence on either side of gear oil leaking out. Also, you can remove the fill plug and check the gear oil level. Should be just below the bottom of the hole. Fingertip or allen wrench dipped "over the edge". Circlips are part "N" in the drawing below. Companion Shaft is part "3". The clips install in the groove on the shaft, then slide and "clip" into place in differential housing.
There is an upgraded circlip available from Mitsubishi, and as I understand it, it is a fairly straightforward repair. If there was no high pitched whine at speed, or low roar, I wouldn't be too quick to blame the differential. If you see evidence of gear oil leak from prior, and the fluid level is way low, then you may have an issue. The prior owner of my 2006 Montero was towing a "too heavy" trailer with a JLG scaffold lift and blew out the companion shaft lost all the oil and destroyed the differential.
Here's a video I found showing the issue, but not the repair...
I can't help much with the transmission, except that one time, somehow, my 4WD tried to engage (can't say how or why) at low speed, and I heard a terrible gear grinding noise. Stopped immediately, then checked the gears, turned engine off and on, then presto, back in business. Now I have the 5-speed auto with Selectronic shifter, so I now think one of the sensors/switches was simply sending incorrect gate location info.
It may well be too late for your transmission, but they really favor the genuine Mitsubishi (Hyundai/Kia) SP-III fluid. It is also fairly easy to miss the full mark when checking fluid, especially after a change. Many times folks will fill after a fluid change, and misread as full and hit the road only to discover later they were 2 quarts low, due to pumping through the remote cooler, and not going through the gears, then re-checking the fluid level. Wipe, dip, wipe, dip, because the fluid on the side of the fill tube gives a false reading on the dipstick, until you get it cleaned off enough to get a true reading. Again, I fear you may have bigger issues, but a low fluid level could cause that slip bang issue, especially after sitting and idling a few minutes. When driving around, fluid pressure is up and pumping so it may not have the issue at that time.
The shaking at speed issue, verify you don't have a bad ignition coil causing misfire. That can really shake things up and mimic a transmission issue, although it won't sound like metal grinding. Last, I'd investigate the lift. From your picture, it looks pretty dramatic. I think our Gen 3 independent suspensions don't tolerate too much of a lift. Geometry really takes a hit, especially in the driveshafts. I realize our suspension systems lack the articulation motion of solid axle, but I also think the independent has it's sweet spot in swallowing up the bumpy roads at speed. It's almost brilliant when driven properly. I personally believe the excessive lift takes away those benefits.
What part of the country are you in? Try Car-Part.com for scrap yards with your specific model for a spare transmission. Also tagging my self-appointed driveline "guru" @Michael Brown, since it's partially his fault I now have two Gen 3 Monteros.
Understand I'm probably too optimistic, but often times what seems to be catastrophe is sometimes misdiagnosed. Best of luck.
The rear differentials usually fair pretty well, unless the companion shaft circlip fails and leaks the gear oil out. Then you can have a rather dramatic failure. Look for evidence on either side of gear oil leaking out. Also, you can remove the fill plug and check the gear oil level. Should be just below the bottom of the hole. Fingertip or allen wrench dipped "over the edge". Circlips are part "N" in the drawing below. Companion Shaft is part "3". The clips install in the groove on the shaft, then slide and "clip" into place in differential housing.
There is an upgraded circlip available from Mitsubishi, and as I understand it, it is a fairly straightforward repair. If there was no high pitched whine at speed, or low roar, I wouldn't be too quick to blame the differential. If you see evidence of gear oil leak from prior, and the fluid level is way low, then you may have an issue. The prior owner of my 2006 Montero was towing a "too heavy" trailer with a JLG scaffold lift and blew out the companion shaft lost all the oil and destroyed the differential.
Here's a video I found showing the issue, but not the repair...
I can't help much with the transmission, except that one time, somehow, my 4WD tried to engage (can't say how or why) at low speed, and I heard a terrible gear grinding noise. Stopped immediately, then checked the gears, turned engine off and on, then presto, back in business. Now I have the 5-speed auto with Selectronic shifter, so I now think one of the sensors/switches was simply sending incorrect gate location info.
It may well be too late for your transmission, but they really favor the genuine Mitsubishi (Hyundai/Kia) SP-III fluid. It is also fairly easy to miss the full mark when checking fluid, especially after a change. Many times folks will fill after a fluid change, and misread as full and hit the road only to discover later they were 2 quarts low, due to pumping through the remote cooler, and not going through the gears, then re-checking the fluid level. Wipe, dip, wipe, dip, because the fluid on the side of the fill tube gives a false reading on the dipstick, until you get it cleaned off enough to get a true reading. Again, I fear you may have bigger issues, but a low fluid level could cause that slip bang issue, especially after sitting and idling a few minutes. When driving around, fluid pressure is up and pumping so it may not have the issue at that time.
The shaking at speed issue, verify you don't have a bad ignition coil causing misfire. That can really shake things up and mimic a transmission issue, although it won't sound like metal grinding. Last, I'd investigate the lift. From your picture, it looks pretty dramatic. I think our Gen 3 independent suspensions don't tolerate too much of a lift. Geometry really takes a hit, especially in the driveshafts. I realize our suspension systems lack the articulation motion of solid axle, but I also think the independent has it's sweet spot in swallowing up the bumpy roads at speed. It's almost brilliant when driven properly. I personally believe the excessive lift takes away those benefits.
What part of the country are you in? Try Car-Part.com for scrap yards with your specific model for a spare transmission. Also tagging my self-appointed driveline "guru" @Michael Brown, since it's partially his fault I now have two Gen 3 Monteros.
Understand I'm probably too optimistic, but often times what seems to be catastrophe is sometimes misdiagnosed. Best of luck.
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CharlieNorth
Well-known member
I am not sure what is being spoken of here but a 2004 Montero only has the 5 speed automatic and 4.3 ratio axles. There are no other options.
The 2002 can have either a 4 or 5 speed auto. If the shifter can click to the right and go into manual shift mode you have a 5 speed.
The 2002 can have either a 4 or 5 speed auto. If the shifter can click to the right and go into manual shift mode you have a 5 speed.
I’m in Bakersfield California. Not many places here that will work on the Montero. If I can’t find a shop that will work on it, Ive been thinking since it will be awhile before I can get it running again I may just find some info on how to rebuild the transmission and rear diff and just do it slowly over time, I’d like to bulletproof it so I don’t have to worry about anything for at least another 130,000 miles or more. Thanks for the help again.
It’s the 4 speed version. Like in the picture I posted. So I’m assuming it the 4 speed, thanks for the input. I need all the help I can get
CharlieNorth
Well-known member
I will guarantee there is NO CHANCE that both the transmission and differential will fail.
What error codes are you getting on the transmission?
You have not posted any picture of anything that can be used to determine what the transmission is.
What error codes are you getting on the transmission?
You have not posted any picture of anything that can be used to determine what the transmission is.
normal_dave
waytoomuchwritinginposts.
Since @MikeE75 is new to the neighborhood, I'll make a friendly defense...
Post #1 He says "2002 XLS"
Post #4 Picture of his truck, a blue 2002 XLS, which you accurately posted would have the 4-speed auto, 4.90 gearset.
I think where I got confused was the junkyard conversation about the 2004 potential donor, but we see that won't work for him.
I agree and am doubtful about losing both transmission and differential simultaneously. Reading back through the posts, I'm now wondering about CV axle assembly related to the extreme vibration getting up to speed. Of course, this may not explain the metal noises when placed in reverse. You have a ton of experience with these vehicles, what are your thoughts on the CV axle playing a role in the vibration issue? I also am curious about the intermittent issues, seems my stuff usually just fails without a lot of warning.
I'm right curious about the outcome based on the description of the issues, while knowing I can't fix it over the internet. Best of luck finding a knowledgeable shop that can help.
First:Trans is on the way. Miles are a bit high at 150k but with a 6 month warrenty and only 450 bucks from LKQ that buys me some time to have the original one rebuilt. I’d love to be able to do the work myself and post pictures of me drinking beers and never getting anything done but I work on call and my time off is spent being with the wife. She already hates my truck as it is, so I doubt she’d be happy with me if I spent the few hours I’m at home playing as she puts it.
Second:Rear end is failing. Left axel needs to be replaced and is leaking. This is new as I was under there a few days before and didn’t see anything. But I’m going to get the trans done first and then have them tackle the rear end.
I want to say thanks to Normal Dave for the diagram of the rear end because it really helped me understand what was going on when the mechanic was talk to me about it. So I sounded like I knew what I was talking about while agreeing with him. If I had the time I would have hyper fixated on the Rear end and then would know every detail about it. Plus all the ways it could fail. I have that kind of weird brain.
Also if anyone has a link to the rear sun visor like I see a lot of people have could you send it to me. I found one but it doesn’t specify if it’s for an ‘02. Kind of a generic one. Greatly appreciated. More info on what actually happened to the rear end once I find out.
Second:Rear end is failing. Left axel needs to be replaced and is leaking. This is new as I was under there a few days before and didn’t see anything. But I’m going to get the trans done first and then have them tackle the rear end.
I want to say thanks to Normal Dave for the diagram of the rear end because it really helped me understand what was going on when the mechanic was talk to me about it. So I sounded like I knew what I was talking about while agreeing with him. If I had the time I would have hyper fixated on the Rear end and then would know every detail about it. Plus all the ways it could fail. I have that kind of weird brain.
Also if anyone has a link to the rear sun visor like I see a lot of people have could you send it to me. I found one but it doesn’t specify if it’s for an ‘02. Kind of a generic one. Greatly appreciated. More info on what actually happened to the rear end once I find out.
Michael Brown
You followed me, so now we're both lost
The rear differentials are interchangeable as a complete assembly. 4spd have a 4.9 ratio, 5spd have a 4.3 ratio. I changed the rear in my 05 using just wrenches to unbolt the axles and driveshaft.
When looking for a replacement, you can also be looking for "hyblid" differential on the label. This will indicate a factory limited slip mechanism (LSD) that was only used on 01-02 models. 03+ make due with their new traction control.
Repair for the loose axle flange is to install the updated circlip on the splined end. However, yours may be too damaged for this.
When looking for a replacement, you can also be looking for "hyblid" differential on the label. This will indicate a factory limited slip mechanism (LSD) that was only used on 01-02 models. 03+ make due with their new traction control.
Repair for the loose axle flange is to install the updated circlip on the splined end. However, yours may be too damaged for this.