2003 Pathfinder (R50) - weekend getaway build

pathguy

New member
Well, as a longtime lurker in this forum and having benefitted a great deal from the knowledge and reports of others, I figured I might as well put a thread together covering my experience with my R50. It’s not the highest spec, most capable, or most extensive build you’ll ever see, but there are a few things I’ve done differently than others, so hopefully there will be some new info here people can take advantage from when they consider how best to modify their own trucks.

Since I’m going to be fairly in-depth in my write-up, I’ll break it down into a few posts over the coming days (weeks?) whenever I find time to squeeze in sessions at the keyboard. Pretty much all of the (fairly minor) modifications I planned for the vehicle are now complete, so I likely won’t updating the thread much when I’m done, but I promise to keep you guys apprised of any new developments or further thoughts on the results as the mileage accumulates.

So, starting at the top…

As a longtime dirt biker, I had always enjoyed venturing off pavement and exploring, but had never owned a 4x4. My previous car (B6 Audi A4 1.8T) had been awesome for weekend road trips and driving up to the ski hills in the winter. However, having explored many of the more easily accessible local areas in that, I decided I needed something with a bit more capability to open up some more remote opportunities. That said, I didn’t want to compromise too much on the comforts and decent on-road handling I was used to, and still wanted a vehicle I could use every day in the city and tackle long mileages the highway. This was never going to be a rock-crawler. My research kept bringing me back to the R50 as the only platform that offered the particular blend of capabilities I was after: reliability, power, comfort, and capacity, without too much of a penalty in terms of fuel economy, handling, size, cost, and off-road ability.

After many months of searching, I (finally!) purchased a 2003 Pathfinder in April 2011 from a dealer in Victoria BC. Victoria’s climate is similar to say Portland, so the truck was extremely clean compared to some other Canadian vehicles – next to no salt exposure. It only had one previous owner, having covered 132k kms (~82k mi) since new. It was also a manual trans model with the SE trim package – a very rare combo for 2003/04 (in Canada at least…). In other words, it was my perfect R50. I overpaid for the truck (at least compared to book), but still think it was a good deal for my ideal starting point.

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After verifying that all the basic maintenance items claimed to have been done by the dealer before they put it out on their lot had in fact been done (correctly), I took the truck on a few light off-roading trips over the summer – mostly camping and exploring old logging roads. My idea was to get a feel for the strengths and weaknesses of the truck and slowly draw up a list of things to improve. The truck generally performed faultlessly, but I quickly ran into some of the limitations of the stock platform. Pathfinders were never a particularly heavy-duty vehicle from the outset, but load capacity on the stock 8 year-old suspension was seriously lacking. Any more than 100 lbs in the back of the vehicle had it riding around with the nose in the air. Off-road clearance was also an issue, mostly due to the same sagged suspension. Rear-end grip/axle control was also very poor, with the car stepping out everywhere when cornering, especially on rough roads at speeds. Not fun!

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All in all, I was fairly happy with the truck, but given the limitations of the stock and somewhat aged platform, let's just say I was already eager to scratch the "mod itch". More to come...
 

stioc

Expedition Leader
Pathguy, good to see you starting your build diary here. I was wondering what happened to you since I didn't see any posts from you lately.

Looking good, welcome

What Part of Canada are you from?

My guess is somewhere near Victoria, BC? :)
 

Allof75

Pathfinder
Welcome to Expedition Portal!

You lucked out! The manual and the VQ combo must be hella fun, wish they were more common here in the States. Also, good to see another post-facelift Silver Pathfinder on here, there's not many :)

I'm very curious as to what you did to fix the rear suspension issue, I face literally the exact same problems- no load capacity, and the rear wanting to swap ends, so I'm waiting a bit anxiously.

P.S. Beautiful part of Canada you're from! I passed through on the way to the West Coast Trail up there in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, gorgeous area, though the mud, constant rain/drizzle, and ladders got old at about the 55 km mark... Anyway, I spent a bit of time up around there, you're lucky.
 

pathguy

New member
Thanks guys, as I said, I'm thankful for all I've learned on here (and other boards), so figured it was time to pay it back a little. Sorry for the delay in response/update. I don't get on here as much as I'd like to.

Allof75, cool to hear you did the West Coast Trail. I'm actually on the mainland and have yet to get out there for the full trip but have been out that way and it's amazing for sure. As for the rear suspension, I'll get to it in more detail in an upcoming post, but long story short, shocks made the biggest difference for me (my trailing arms/bushings seem in good shape).

Now for the update.

By the time winter rolled around, I found a good deal on a barely used set of Nokian WR SUV winter-rated "all weather" tires (from a Tacoma), so picked them up and threw them on. These greatly helped with wet-weather and cold-weather traction, and I’ll be honest, the black-painted wheels helped toughen up the looks a bit and differentiate my rig from the multitude of Pathfinders seemingly relegated to soccer-mom duty (at least in my mind). They also provided an extra half-inch of ground clearance, which couldn't hurt!

Slightly bigger
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Ski mode
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The Tacoma steelies also opened up a new opportunity – the installation of manual hubs. Although I was a huge fan of the looks of the 2003/04 SE wheels, unlike most of the earlier wheels, they do not permit the installation of manual hubs without modification. However, since that was no longer an issue with the Tacoma steelies, I ordered up a set of Mile Marker manual hubs from Amazon. At just around $100 CDN delivered to my door (2 days later!), they are a great value. They actually use the same basic design as the more common Warn hubs (they license Warn’s patent), and I personally prefer the chrome finish to the yellowish finish of the Warns. They also look quite a bit like the stock hub caps which would be cool if I eventually decided to try and use them with the stock wheels. Fit and finish seems excellent, with nice thick black paint (powder coating?) on the hub body and no thin spots in the chrome.

Installation was dead easy at under 20 minutes per side – didn’t even have to take the wheels off. I chose not to replace the stock drive flange mounting studs with the allen-head bolts included in the kit, mostly because I’m lazy, but also because I don’t always carry allen keys of that size with me in my toolkit – I wanted to be able to replace a hub on the trail in a pinch (with one of the old drive flanges) if one broke. A big help for this job was the reverse-operating snap ring pliers. Snap rings are always a bit tricky, especially trying to pull-out on needle nose pliers, so I figured this would be a good time to pick up a set of dedicated snap-ring pliers cheap from Home Depot. Highly recommended.

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Can't say I noticed much of an improvement in MPG compared to the drive flanges, but I did the hubs at about the same time as the bigger wheels/tires, so the two probably offset eachother. I did notice slightly less steering effort (again, could be the wheels/tires - Tacoma wheels have slightly less backspacing), and liked the idea of not spinning the front transfer case all the time. Yes, it's a bit of a pain to get out and lock the hubs when you want to use 4x4, but really, that's part of what 4x4ing is all about if you ask me. Just one more way to differentiate ourselves from the mall-crawlers in their crossovers!
 

pathguy

New member
Thanks stoic! Slow and steady...

Having noticed what looked like leaking rear shocks when I originally saw the car at the dealer, and having subsequently suffered from poor rear axle control over a few months of driving, I knew they were in dire need of replacement. After doing a bit of research, I settled on the KYB Gas-A-Justs. They were only a few bucks more than the standard GR2’s (which I believe are basically the OEM Nissan part), but are a monotube design, which promises better damping control and durability. Also, as I wasn’t planning on too much of a lift (more on that later) or doing any serious rock-crawling, I wasn’t overly concerned about adding extra shock travel/articulation.

Leaky Shocks
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Decided to paint the drums while I was in there. Quick scuff with the wire brush...
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...and a coat of high-temp black. Much better.
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I picked up a set from FCP parts (http://www.fcpimport.com/), and they were delivered cheaply to my door with no x-border hassles and for less than half the price of local suppliers. I also ordered an OEM replacement oil filter at the same time, but they somehow mixed up my order and sent a no-name replacement unit. After a quick email to the FCP team, my card was credited for the difference, and the sales manager informed me that they had identified why the process had broken down on their end and assured me that they had corrected it. I was a bit disappointed in not having the OEM filter in time for the oil change, but the whole thing was handled very professionally by FCP, and I wouldn’t hesitate ordering from them again (and later, did). As it turns out, after some investigation, the oil filter they sent actually seems pretty high quality – much better than the Fram unit that had been installed at the dealer previously.

Love opening up UPS boxes
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KYB P/N
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Installation of the rear shocks was very straightforward. I (for once) had the foresight to soak the mounting nuts with penetrating oil a couple times a few days before I went to remove them, and they came of fairly easily – no spun threads. Laying the stock shock next to the Gas-a-Justs, the length is indeed identical, but the G-a-J’s are definitely thicker bodied. The biggest shock (pun not intended) though was just how worn out the old shocks really were. I could easily compress and extend them just holding them with my fingers and moving them between my arms. There was ZERO resistance – the shocks might as well not have even been on the vehicle. In contrast, the new G-a-J’s were VERY hard to compress, and sprung back with a surprising amount of pressure from the internal gas.

Side-by side: note larger diameter of the Gas-a-Justs.
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A quick road test after the installation revealed a night-and-day difference. Rear-end handling improved 100%, no exaggeration. Instantly, it felt like the back end was now glued to the road over bumps and train tracks (although it was still disappointingly possible to kick the tail out inadvertently around town – a 3.5-engined R50 weakness in my books). The new shocks also put the truck back to a more level stance, and helped with the load-sagging somewhat. Definitely recommend this upgrade to anyone running around on old worn-out OEM shocks!
 

abbie

New member
I am excited to see what comes next.....I am from Kelowna BC and I think I am on the same "path" with my pathfinder:ylsmoke:
 

stioc

Expedition Leader
Great updates. Regarding kicking the tail out inadvertently could it be because of the lack of tire grip? Honestly it's never happened to me even with the aggressive AT tread which has less grip than a typical 'all season' highway tire. Then again it hardly rains here and I drive the truck fairly easy- things sort of slow down for me when I'm driving it, like I'm in a 27' UHaul truck lol.
 

pathguy

New member
Ah, I should have probably qualified the "kicking the tail out everywhere" statement. You see it rains a lot (A LOT) here in the PNW, and the roads are wet/damp/greasy probably 50% of the time I drive. Between the worn out shocks and the torque of the VQ, I found I spun up the inside rear wheel all over the place. Not so much a problem on dry roads.

I need to move to California.

So by this point, the lift bug had well and truly set in, and could no longer be ignored. I’m the type of person that likes to research every last decision to the Nth degree, so this was never going to be a quick process. However, I really found it difficult finding good suspension options for the R50. Being a unibody platform, getting decent lift (without dropping the subframe) was always going to be an issue. However, the more I investigated, the more I came to realize that neither of the two most common choices for springs – OME or AC – were what I really wanted. While I can’t vouch from them from experience, everyone seems to agree OME makes great products, but 0.5” lift from the OME MD’s in the front wasn’t going to cut it, and not running a winch or bumper, I didn’t want to go with the HD’s. On the other hand, the AC front springs sounded like they were just far too long – difficult to compress/install/align, and leading to “topping out” issues when not loaded. I liked the amount of lift, but wanted to keep a relatively OEM-style ride/handling experience. I didn’t want to have to explain to my passengers what that clunking coming from the front end was all the time.

With a bit more research, I decided to take the plunge with a relatively unknown option over here – Ironman. Ironman is a fairly highly regarded company in their native Australia, with a reputation for producing decently high-quality parts. Having seen first-hand the Aussie style of overland vehicle modification during a previous visit there, I was fairly confident in giving Ironman a try. I wasn’t able to find experience from many people running them on R50s, but the couple pictures I was able to dig up online seemed to show that their springs gave quite a bit of ***-up-in-the-air rake. They were actually rated for +200 kg (440 lb) in the rear. Again, this is fairly common with Aussie suspension as they tend to run a lot of accessories in the rear of the vehicle – fridges, swing-out bumpers (sometimes dual-swing), and multiple jerry cans. Helping cement my choice, of the few suppliers offering Ironman products in North America, I was able to find a great deal through cruiserparts.net – only $96/pair plus shipping for the springs! When I later placed my order, shipping to Canada was painless, and they arrived fairly quickly having confirmed my order with the Cruiser Parts staff. Recommended.

Careful examination/measurement of the photos I found (using wheel size as a reference) showed that the unloaded lift amount would be fairly similar to AC in the back - about 2.5-3” - but only about 0.75” or so in the front. While I was happy this would prevent the topping out issues up front, I wanted more of a level stance, so I decided to augment the front suspension with a pair of NX4 1” strut spacers. There are lots of people running these on their R50s, and all the feedback I could gather was positive. While I was a bit apprehensive about adding a potential weak link at the top of the strut, I came to realize that with the high-grade bolts provided by NX4 and the relatively small size of the spacer, strength wouldn’t be an issue. When it came time to order, Jeff at NX4 was very helpful, and the spacers were shipped quickly and arrived well-packaged and ready to go. Another recommendation from me.

Front strut choice is also fairly limited with the R50. OME do offer an upgrade product, but I felt the price (~$250+ per side) was a bit steep, and the benefit they’d offer probably wouldn’t be noticeable to me in my lighter-duty application. I briefly considered going with a cheap set of Monroe’s from Amazon, but given the excellent experience I’d had with the rear shocks, eventually decided to go with KYB GR2’s. These were also very highly regarded amongst R50 owners, with no real complaints to be found in my research. Given my previous good experience, I ordered the GR2s from FCP, and they were again delivered quickly and cheaply with no hassles.

With all the lift parts now gathered, anticipation built for the big day (ok, weekend). I had decided to undertake the installation of the suspension myself, partially because I’m cheap, but also because I wanted to know things were done right, and be able to know how everything came together incase field repairs were ever needed. Cars are my hobby, so although I was certain there would be much cursing throughout the installation process (which I later proved true), I was looking forward to a bit of fun in the garage…and the sense of satisfaction when everything was done.

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bushnut

Adventurer
this is the same lift I'll be doing in the spring!
got my KYBs struts already. good to know there is another supplier for the springs as Camel4x4 is currently backorderd on the rear springs. I haven't made up my mind on the rear shocks yet, Rancho or KYB gas-a-just.
Did you replace the strut mount and bearing as well?
 

Lecoq

Explorer
Looking forward to seeing this. Should be nice!

Look like a trip to the island is in order :)
 

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